Old Fashioned Broody Hen Hatch A Long and Informational Thread

[NysiaAnera]

FINALLY, we have another broody! We gave her 10 eggs, but I may give her 6-8 more tomorrow. All the rest we had got hard boiled today. Of course I would finally get another broody 5 days after I started another batch in the incubator! I wanted to start eggs in the incubator and under a broody on the same day so I could sneak chicks under momma at the same time hers are hatching, but I finally gave up and went ahead. Oh well. Hopefully we will have more hens getting in the mood soon.

 

[NysiaAnera]

Now a question for the experienced broody hen raisers.....those who regularly hatch chicks with brooding hens....
@fisherlady

@PD-Riverman


...and any others who have had experience and would like to answer:

[COLOR=B22222]Have you ever, or do you regularly, wash/sanitize your fertile eggs before setting with a broody? [/COLOR]

[COLOR=B22222]If so why? If so how? What has been your results?[/COLOR]

Sadly my pre-arranged, highly desired, purchased eggs came in less than ideal shape....very dirty. (Heavy mud smears, likely some fecal as well).

As they were a good deal on a very desired breed I'd had trouble finding, and we'd arranged a meet up, with the breeder driving a substantial distance, I purchased the eggs anyway.

I had done some googling the night before just in case with a hunch the eggs could be dirty after our incredibly rainy winter/spring and dealing with a new breeder (who is more on the side than a regular business).

Yes. By golly, this is a HUGE controversy, I know, I did the BYC search as well as others. To wash or not wash before setting to hatch. So I know there are going to be opinions on both sides (so let's keep it helpful and instructional).

Generally the wash crowd is using incubators, and the "big boy" hatcheries wash/sanitize and place in sterile incubators to get the nearly 100% success rates without risk of omphalitis and other infections common to hatching chicks in dirty environments.

But what about us with broodies?  They are hardly sterile. (Which was the breeder's reasoning for not worrying about her eggs being dirty...they were going under a broody).

But what about the safety to the broody with eggs from another farm?

So, getting into the matter, I know the importance of the cuticle (aka bloom) on the egg and how that protects the developing chick inside from invading bacteria in what can only be considered an unclean environment (the backside of a hen sitting in a functioning coop). 

Normally I do not wash my eggs but place them directly under my broody hens for that reason.

BUT my eggs, are pretty clean as I make effort to keep my nest boxes clean and provide shavings in the paths up to the coop for the constant mud that is Oregon. (I toss those that are really encrusted or filthy.)

When I've sold fertile eggs, I made sure they were the cleanest and freshest I had (and my purchasers reported 80 to 90 percent hatch rates of healthy chicks and healthy broodies).

While fertile eggs do not protect against passing MG to the flock (as it is passed from mother to chick), hatching fertile eggs is one of the safest ways to add new birds and different breeds to a flock.

BUT...what if the breeder doesn't have the same standards as you do? And you find out AFTER pre-arranged payment/pickup or mail receipt?

What about those microscopic contaminants from their farm...viruses, coccidia, mites?

I've pondered about the risk to my hens of placing eggs from another farm under them.

So...what are your thoughts? What are your experiences?

Thank you to all who answer.

LofMc

PS: I decided to wash the dirty eggs under warm (but not hot) water...about 105 degrees, with gentle finger rubbing to rid the deep mud, then air dried. 4 needed cleaning, 2 were okay, so I did not wash. (Somewhat of a control, though not scientific). We'll see what happens.

I have never washed eggs for hatching. I feel that having the bloom on the eggs is much more important than having a clean egg. I have brushed of as much dirt/poop as possible if an egg I wanted to use has been dirty. A dry cloth, paper towel, or a soft brush (like a toothbrush) work. I had an inexperienced broody poop in the nest before, and when I discovered it it was dry. I scraped off all I could and put the eggs back in clean bedding, and the chicks hatched healthy and strong.

On the other hand, I totally understand about the eggs being purchased, and not from your own flock. Personally, I would do the same as with my own eggs, and scrape off as much as possible before setting them, but not wash them. I would also change the bedding after the first week, as it will rub off under the hen.

 

[Lady of McCamley]

Newbie question...Do I have a broody hen? My Buff Orpington hens are all about 11 months old and the last week or so one of them has been starting to hang out in the nest box more and more each day. The last couple of days she's been very squawky and nippy if we go near her when she's on the nest. Also been fluffing up her feathers when our hand gets close, I won't retrieve eggs unless I'm wearing a glove. Also, today I noticed quite a few feathers in the nest she's been on but now she's moved over to the next nest over. Lastly, we decided to take a peek tonight and she's still in the nest box.

Since the weekend there's been two fake eggs in the nest she's been on and laying in (we want to raise some chicks) as well as extra eggs sometimes showing up from the other hens too. I assume she's going broody but...

How long should I wait to put eggs under her? I plan to do it later, after dark. If I do it tomorrow (Wednesday) night I should have 7-8 "fresh" eggs. A couple more Thursday.
How many should I give her? This would be her, and our first try.

Starting to get excited. Ive been watching everyone post their updates and pics feeling happy for them but still a little sad. We've been waiting for this to happen for us all spring.

Thx for any input.

Yes, she is definitely wanting to brood.

Before placing eggs, I wait at least 2 to 3 days of really solid brooding, meaning they stick to the nest only getting off once a day to go right back to the nest. Hens can have a pre-brood stage where they are on for a number of hours but then get off for several hours. They'll do this while they build their clutch.

I have main coop brooded and have a designated brooding hutch. For those hatches I really desire (purchased breeder eggs or a particular line I'm wanting), I always use my hens in the brooding hutch because they have isolated nests and their own private grow out run (which has a fenced run that the flock grazes by to help with integration).

Coop brooding comes with its own set of issues. If you have a dominant hen, she will generally hold her own and not be forced off the nests. However, the foot traffic often crushes eggs. It definitely can crush hatching chicks (lost a number that way). In my experience it is far better to put up a protective screen barrier so that the hen cannot be encroached upon especially during the lock down phase (last 2 days).

Each flock is different, and how you brood depends upon your flock dynamics. In laid back flocks, especially those with a good rooster keeping peace, coop hatching within the main flock can be highly successful and a joy to watch (with the caveat to isolate during lock down).

However, if the brooding hen is less dominant, others more aggressive, or foot traffic especially heavy in the "golden" box, then the best course of action is to isolate the brooding hen to give her the space and safety to hatch chicks.

Good luck with her and a crop of chicks. Let us know when you set

LofMc

 

[Lady of McCamley]

I have never washed eggs for hatching. I feel that having the bloom on the eggs is much more important than having a clean egg. I have brushed of as much dirt/poop as possible if an egg I wanted to use has been dirty. A dry cloth, paper towel, or a soft brush (like a toothbrush) work. I had an inexperienced broody poop in the nest before, and when I discovered it it was dry. I scraped off all I could and put the eggs back in clean bedding, and the chicks hatched healthy and strong.

On the other hand, I totally understand about the eggs being purchased, and not from your own flock. Personally, I would do the same as with my own eggs, and scrape off as much as possible before setting them, but not wash them. I would also change the bedding after the first week, as it will rub off under the hen.

Good to hear, thank you for your response.

I did try to dry brush the gook off (first choice), however this was bone dry, glued on, stuck tight mud. I would likely have crushed the egg with the vigor to try to get it off.

I also read in my research that the rubbing can do more harm to the bloom and shell than simply washing it.

You are the second person who suggested to change bedding out after a week, and I hadn't thought about that but plan to do that.

Ah well, we'll see how my experiment goes with purchased washed eggs (and no, I won't likely be using this breeder again).

LofMc

 

[NysiaAnera]

Good to hear, thank you for your response.

I did try to dry brush the gook off (first choice), however this was bone dry, glued on, stuck tight mud. I would likely have crushed the egg with the vigor to try to get it off.

I also read in my research that the rubbing can do more harm to the bloom and shell than simply washing it.

You are the second person who suggested to change bedding out after a week, and I hadn't thought about that but plan to do that.

Ah well, we'll see how my experiment goes with purchased washed eggs (and no, I won't likely be using this breeder again).

LofMc

I was going to say something about being careful not to smash the eggs when trying to clean them, but I was pretty sure that was a given. :-D
I also agree about rubbing the eggs also possibly damaging the bloom. I only do the spots that are dirty for that exact reason.
The eggs I mentioned that the one first time broody pooped on were real bad just like you described. One in particular was so covered, I thought it was a gonner for sure. It was caked on, and thick!, over a good 3/4 of the egg and I could not get it off. I gave up for fear of breaking the egg. I was pleasantly surprised that the chick was perfectly fine.
I sure hope the eggs hatch successfully for you! You may have said before and I just forgot, but what breed are the eggs from?

 

[Lady of McCamley]

I was going to say something about being careful not to smash the eggs when trying to clean them, but I was pretty sure that was a given. :-D
I also agree about rubbing the eggs also possibly damaging the bloom. I only do the spots that are dirty for that exact reason.
The eggs I mentioned that the one first time broody pooped on were real bad just like you described. One in particular was so covered, I thought it was a gonner for sure. It was caked on, and thick!, over a good 3/4 of the egg and I could not get it off. I gave up for fear of breaking the egg. I was pleasantly surprised that the chick was perfectly fine.
I sure hope the eggs hatch successfully for you! You may have said before and I just forgot, but what breed are the eggs from?

I've had broken egg gook dried on as well, and just dabbed and let them hatch. Had good hatches with my own eggs.

My concern with these eggs were that they came from a different farm with the potential of coccidia infection to my broody...not something I was willing to risk, so I washed.

They are Cream Legbar eggs. Sadly a coon got my best breeders for my Olive Egger project (Barnevelder roo with Cream Legbar), so I'm restocking. My original breeder no longer has Cream Legbar, and they were hard to find this time, especially working on a broody schedule, so sometimes you gotta work with what you can get.

LofMc

 

[NysiaAnera]

I've had broken egg gook dried on as well, and just dabbed and let them hatch. Had good hatches with my own eggs.

My concern with these eggs were that they came from a different farm with the potential of coccidia infection to my broody...not something I was willing to risk, so I washed.

They are Cream Legbar eggs. Sadly a coon got my best breeders for my Olive Egger project (Barnevelder roo with Cream Legbar), so I'm restocking. My original breeder no longer has Cream Legbar, and they were hard to find this time, especially working on a broody schedule, so sometimes you gotta work with what you can get.

LofMc

Oh, for sure! The next breed I want to add is Dark Brahmas. I have had a heck of a time finding a good breeder for some eggs. I finally have a good source, but they are expensive and I never have a broody when I have extra cash, and the eggs are not always available.

 

[Lady of McCamley]

Oh, for sure! The next breed I want to add is Dark Brahmas. I have had a heck of a time finding a good breeder for some eggs. I finally have a good source, but they are expensive and I never have a broody when I have extra cash, and the eggs are not always available.

Ain't that the truth...when you want to get a special breed...getting the eggs AND broody AND spare cash all lined up at the same time....

so I washed dirty eggs and hope for the best.

LofMc

 

[Pstock44]

Yep, she sounds broody to me. If she is changing nest boxes, I would wait till she is in the same one for a couple days before giving her eggs. When I give a broody eggs, I do it during the day so she can see them. We do our best to rouse her from her trance, and make sure she sees the eggs and pushes them underneath herself. How many eggs you give her should just depend on her size and how many chicks you hope to have. I have heard of hens hatching up to 30 eggs at a time, and I have some that could probably cover that many, but I would never attempt it. A rule of thumb is that a hen can cover 12 of her own eggs. I usually set 14-16 under my largest hens, and they can easily cover more than that. I also have some that I removed eggs from because I felt they weren't covering them all enough. The least I have given a broody is 10. Just some food for thought. Also, if you plan to leave her with the flock, make sure you mark the eggs you give her so you can tell them apart from any new eggs laid by other hens. I draw a line around the center of the eggs, and check the nest every 1-2 days for new eggs.

Thank you. Since it's her first time I think I'll give her about 10 eggs. I'd hate to waste them if I do something wrong and she's not ready when I give them to her. Having patience is so hard, I just want to tell her, here ya go, let's get started.

We already date the eggs when we bring them in so marking them is covered. I just wasn't sure if giving her a bunch of eggs all at once in the daytime would upset her and mess things up.

Its going to be a long couple of days waiting. Thanks for your advice.

 

[Pstock44]

Yes, she is definitely wanting to brood.

Before placing eggs, I wait at least 2 to 3 days of really solid brooding, meaning they stick to the nest only getting off once a day to go right back to the nest. Hens can have a pre-brood stage where they are on for a number of hours but then get off for several hours. They'll do this while they build their clutch.

I have main coop brooded and have a designated brooding hutch. For those hatches I really desire (purchased breeder eggs or a particular line I'm wanting), I always use my hens in the brooding hutch because they have isolated nests and their own private grow out run (which has a fenced run that the flock grazes by to help with integration).

Coop brooding comes with its own set of issues. If you have a dominant hen, she will generally hold her own and not be forced off the nests. However, the foot traffic often crushes eggs. It definitely can crush hatching chicks (lost a number that way). In my experience it is far better to put up a protective screen barrier so that the hen cannot be encroached upon especially during the lock down phase (last 2 days).

Each flock is different, and how you brood depends upon your flock dynamics. In laid back flocks, especially those with a good rooster keeping peace, coop hatching within the main flock can be highly successful and a joy to watch (with the caveat to isolate during lock down).

However, if the brooding hen is less dominant, others more aggressive, or foot traffic especially heavy in the "golden" box, then the best course of action is to isolate the brooding hen to give her the space and safety to hatch chicks.

Good luck with her and a crop of chicks. Let us know when you set

LofMc

I noticed she started sitting on the nest longer than needed last week and has gradually been spending more time on the nest each day. She was on it all last night, last one out of the coop this morning but hasn't gone back in yet, been almost an hour. She's had 2 fake eggs so she's always had something to sit on.

I have my original small coop I was going to set up in its own area of the run but I'm not able to set it up at this time (had a surgery) but may be able to have it ready once they hatch. My flock has been extremely peaceful until recently. I had a "hen" end up being a rooster and he's started trying to have his way with the hens but the dominant rooster Batman, and all the hens pick back at him. Batman has always been a great rooster, he shows the hens food and waits for them to eat first, mating is very gentle, never biting and always gentle but very protective. I'm trying to rehome #2 rooster so peace shall return soon.

I'm going to wait several more days and see how she does. I'll post updates as things go along.
Thanks for the advice.