Once inside the coop...

[Welshies]

Hi !
I would have to differ on some opinions expressed above.
Do you see the door at the top of your run? It is most definitely there for a reason. It is part of the overall design of that model. It should be closed AND locked at night.
EVERY NIGHT.
If you can’t run out in the morning to tend to them or lock them up at night, purchase an automatic coop door opener before you lose your flock.

I have seen that actual coop. They sell it at my local TSC store.
The hardware cloth is attached with shallow staples and the wood of the frame is soft, something like a Chinese balsa.
A determined predator such as a raccoon would have absolutely no trouble at all breaking in to to your run at night and killing all of your birds.

Please don’t believe anyone who says sure go ahead and leave it open.


ETA welcome to byc. It’s where all us chicken people flock to!

It'll depend on how many birds the OP has and how much space is there.

 

[CapricornFarm]

I only close the pop door (where the chickens enter the run) when it's cold at night. Since we went below freezing at night in November I've been closing the door once they go in at night and open it back up in the morning. Once warmer weather gets here I'll be leaving it open all the time again. We haven't had any predator issues so for me that works the best.

Predators are everywhere, even coyotes living in cities. I would recommend beefing up security. I spent a lot on my coop and run but to me it is worth it. So far none lost to predators. I have chain link runs, hardware cloth on the bottom foot to keep racoon arms out. The roof is partly metal roofing and partly welded wire.
Even a stray dog can bust into poorly built coops and kill every bird. I hope it doesn't happen to you.

 

[Welshies]

Predators are everywhere, even coyotes living in cities. I would recommend beefing up security. I spent a lot on my coop and run but to me it is worth it. So far none lost to predators. I have chain link runs, hardware cloth on the bottom foot to keep racoon arms out. The roof is partly metal roofing and partly welded wire.
Even a stray dog can bust into poorly built coops and kill every bird. I hope it doesn't happen to you.

Yes, OP, you may not have had predator issues... but add a yet to that sentence. There is always a "yet".

 

[apryl29]

Predators are everywhere, even coyotes living in cities. I would recommend beefing up security. I spent a lot on my coop and run but to me it is worth it. So far none lost to predators. I have chain link runs, hardware cloth on the bottom foot to keep racoon arms out. The roof is partly metal roofing and partly welded wire.
Even a stray dog can bust into poorly built coops and kill every bird. I hope it doesn't happen to you.

I meant b/c of how my run is made I haven't had anything get in. But her coop/ run is way different. Esp considering that her entire setup may be light enough that a larger animal could topple it over if it's not attached to the ground somehow.

 

[Welshies]

I meant b/c of how my run is made I haven't had anything get in. But her coop/ run is way different. Esp considering that her entire setup may be light enough that a larger animal could topple it over if it's not attached to the ground somehow.

Yes, x2. I have seen prefab coops get flipped over before.

 

[staceyj]

It'll depend on how many birds the OP has and how much space is there.

I’m sorry. I must have missed the part of the question where the Original Poster asked this as a question pertaining to numbers.

Rather I understood it as the Original Poster looking for guidance as far as the safety and usage of her coop structure itself.

Maybe you didn’t understand what I replied. It was directed to the Original Poster who is a “new egg” to BYC and seeking advice from successful flock stewards.

That coop in the photo is not a heavy one. I was able to lift it off the ground with my shoulder at TSC just a few months ago.

The OP’s have done a good job to stabilize it on the ground with boards and have added hardware cloth apron all around.

I would not have commented on this post unless I was sure of my answer, but I have seen and touched this exact coop with my own two hands and feel obligated to comment in a supportive and educational manner.

The hardware cloth on it is not predator proof because of the way it is attached to the frame. I considered purchasing that exact model and went to my local store to scrutinize every inch of it.

I am standing by my original statement and adding an addendum *regardless of the number of birds* that the door to the coop itself AND the door leading from the enclosed run to the outside, are part of an overall design meant for safety of an owners flock and should BOTH be secured.
To choose not to is certainly the owners prerogative, but in my opinion it would be taking a regretful risk.

 

[Welshies]

I’m sorry. I must have missed the part of the question where the Original Poster asked this as a question pertaining to numbers.

Rather I understood it as the Original Poster looking for guidance as far as the safety and usage of her coop structure itself.

Maybe you didn’t understand what I replied. It was directed to the Original Poster who is a “new egg” to BYC and seeking advice from successful flock stewards.

That coop I’m the photo is not a heavy one. The OP’s have done a good job to stabilize it on the ground with boards and have added hardware cloth apron all around.

I would not have commented on this post unless I was sure of my answer, but I have seen and touched this exact coop with my own two hands and feel obligated to comment in a supportive and educational manner.

The hardware cloth is not predator proof because of the way it is attached to the frame. I considered purchasing that exact model and went to my local store to scrutinize every inch of it.

I am standing by my original statement and adding an addendum *regardless of the number of birds*
that the door to the coop itself AND the door leading from the enclosed run to the outside, are part of an overall design meant for safety of an owners flock and should BOTH be secured.
To choose not to is certainly your prerogative, but in my opinion it would be taking a regretful risk.

I understand, all I was saying is that stuffing too many birds into a small space would be unfair and not healthy, which is something the OP should take into consideration.

 

[PirateGirl]

Your chickens would be safer and warmer with the door at the top of the ramp closed at night.

You know your setup and regional weather and predators best, and it is a personal choice whether or not to close the door.

My run is in theory predator proof, but the coop is still much more secure and personally I sleep better at night when they are locked up.

 

[CapricornFarm]

Your chickens would be safer and warmer with the door at the top of the ramp closed at night.

You know your setup and regional weather and predators best, and it is a personal choice whether or not to close the door.

My run is in theory predator proof, but the coop is still much more secure and personally I sleep better at night when they are locked up.

Ditto, safer is better. I lock mine up even when its not cold out. Takes a long time to grow out replacements.

 

[staceyj]

I understand, all I was saying is that stuffing too many birds into a small space would be unfair and not healthy, which is something the OP should take into consideration.

That was not the question the OP asked. I answered the question asked.

I know we are all here to learn. But learning is incremental.

The manufacturer of that particular chicken coop rates it for 8 to 10 birds. As a brand new person to raising chickens the buyer is a total innocent in regards to statements or misleading packaging on coop kits.