A heat gun will work on the glue too. And yea, went to Lowes last week cause the hubbyn needed a new blade for the band saw. Left with a $150.00 sander. I have no idea why. Bless his heart, his goal in life is to own every tool ever created.
Our kitchen remodel! Tile floor is finished (pic pg 4)!!!
- Thread starter SpringChickens
- Start date
Is that a slab or wood subflooring? I can't tell.
A heatgun will work, with a sharp scraper, or stiff putty knife.
As for the wood running up to the wall, they make an ocillating saw with an offset blade,[fairly recent invention, and not cheap, although, I did see one, in Lowes, for about $160].
Since you are remodeling, to some degree, do not let that little wall stand in your way, from doing what you really want to do. It's probably not a supporting wall, and can be removed in about 15 minutes.
My #1 rule for remodeling is: don't let what you are seeing, now, control your vision. I've seen too many people try to work around something, because, in their minds, it was permanent.
A heatgun will work, with a sharp scraper, or stiff putty knife.
As for the wood running up to the wall, they make an ocillating saw with an offset blade,[fairly recent invention, and not cheap, although, I did see one, in Lowes, for about $160].
Since you are remodeling, to some degree, do not let that little wall stand in your way, from doing what you really want to do. It's probably not a supporting wall, and can be removed in about 15 minutes.
My #1 rule for remodeling is: don't let what you are seeing, now, control your vision. I've seen too many people try to work around something, because, in their minds, it was permanent.
- Dec 4, 2010
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- 103
As a residential and commercial contractor.
I can not tell you how many jobs like yours, I have had to finish when the do it your self crowd realized that in order to do the the job right.
The proper tools and experiance will cost far less than what the do it your self ends up paying, in time, labor and tools.
Having said that, I will say that the worst floor next to cermamic tile, for removal is by far,a roll on glued floors.
I have used torches and hand scrapers with some success.
Since you had, what appears to be 3/4" hardwood floors. Which you have removed.
What I have done in the past, is to put a 3/4 " plywood subfloor over the existing vinyl flooring.
This is by far the most cost effective method to obtain a relatively flat surface to start from scratch.
Screw placement into existing floor joist are crucial in order to prevent squeeks.
A reciprocating saw properly angled will get a good cut close to flush.
Finish with a sharp chisel.
Fein tool makes a Multi Tool which is what I use for flush cuts. This will set you back about 700.
The important thing to remember when starting a project is to never assume that the job will go as expected.
Until you tear into a project, you can expect with some cerainty that some one tried to cut corners in order to save a few bucks.
A solid flat surface is the beginning steps for a quality flooring job, regardless if it is carpet, Hardwood, Tile, Vinyl, Laminate or stained concrete.
Best of Luck
I can not tell you how many jobs like yours, I have had to finish when the do it your self crowd realized that in order to do the the job right.
The proper tools and experiance will cost far less than what the do it your self ends up paying, in time, labor and tools.
Having said that, I will say that the worst floor next to cermamic tile, for removal is by far,a roll on glued floors.
I have used torches and hand scrapers with some success.
Since you had, what appears to be 3/4" hardwood floors. Which you have removed.
What I have done in the past, is to put a 3/4 " plywood subfloor over the existing vinyl flooring.
This is by far the most cost effective method to obtain a relatively flat surface to start from scratch.
Screw placement into existing floor joist are crucial in order to prevent squeeks.
A reciprocating saw properly angled will get a good cut close to flush.
Finish with a sharp chisel.
Fein tool makes a Multi Tool which is what I use for flush cuts. This will set you back about 700.
The important thing to remember when starting a project is to never assume that the job will go as expected.
Until you tear into a project, you can expect with some cerainty that some one tried to cut corners in order to save a few bucks.
A solid flat surface is the beginning steps for a quality flooring job, regardless if it is carpet, Hardwood, Tile, Vinyl, Laminate or stained concrete.
Best of Luck
- Oct 13, 2010
- 1,789
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A quick fyi:
Wear good dust masks, those old vinyl floors may have asbestos in them. Keeping the floor damp will help hold down the dust as well.
Chances are part of the reason the new wood floor was floating on the vinyl was that contractor refused to disturb the floor below for the haz-mat reasons
Wear good dust masks, those old vinyl floors may have asbestos in them. Keeping the floor damp will help hold down the dust as well.
Chances are part of the reason the new wood floor was floating on the vinyl was that contractor refused to disturb the floor below for the haz-mat reasons
- Jul 30, 2010
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If you are putting down tile, you dont have to pull it up. Take the hard wood up, then mortar and screw concrete board or dura rock down. level with the mortar let this cure, and install tile.
Quote:
I'd go that route...
On a second note....How old is that floor? Back in the day they made flooring out of asbestos (flame retardant flooring). Bad Ju Ju. don't do anything with it...cover it up!
I'd go that route...
On a second note....How old is that floor? Back in the day they made flooring out of asbestos (flame retardant flooring). Bad Ju Ju. don't do anything with it...cover it up!
- Thread starter
- #17
Thanks for all the advice
The linoleum floor is almost completely up, so we're just going to finish the job. Several people told us that we could just leave the linoleum down and tile directly on top of it, but it was so stained and dirty we didn't feel comfortable doing that. Luckily the slab (yes slab, not wood subfloor thankfully) was poured well and is extremely level, so that should make the next steps much easier. The house was built in 1983 so there may not be asbestos, but we are assuming that there is. Figure that's the safest route and we wear masks whenever we do anything with it.
What are the advantages and disadvantages to tiling directly on the concrete slab and not putting down concrete board? We have good quality flooring in an adjacent room which would be level with the tile if we didn't lay any kind of board, but there would be about a 1/2" -3/4" height difference if we need to use backer board before laying the tile.
Thanks again!!
The linoleum floor is almost completely up, so we're just going to finish the job. Several people told us that we could just leave the linoleum down and tile directly on top of it, but it was so stained and dirty we didn't feel comfortable doing that. Luckily the slab (yes slab, not wood subfloor thankfully) was poured well and is extremely level, so that should make the next steps much easier. The house was built in 1983 so there may not be asbestos, but we are assuming that there is. Figure that's the safest route and we wear masks whenever we do anything with it.
What are the advantages and disadvantages to tiling directly on the concrete slab and not putting down concrete board? We have good quality flooring in an adjacent room which would be level with the tile if we didn't lay any kind of board, but there would be about a 1/2" -3/4" height difference if we need to use backer board before laying the tile.
Thanks again!!
It's gonna be a COLD floor! Bed slippers are a must!
LOL
LOL
- Thread starter
- #19
Quote:
LOL, that's ok, just in the kitchen and dining room! A cold floor is probably a good thing in the summer in Texas, too!
ETA - our last house had tile in the Master bedroom - now that was a miserable idea!!
LOL, that's ok, just in the kitchen and dining room! A cold floor is probably a good thing in the summer in Texas, too!
ETA - our last house had tile in the Master bedroom - now that was a miserable idea!!
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #20
Ok, our linoleum floor is gone as well as all the adhesive!!!!
We worked all day yesterday and finally got that done. Next weekend, we tile (or more likely texture one of the walls which was added, but not textured or painted
).
ETA, everything on the floor was up - we just have a little more sweeping to do
We worked all day yesterday and finally got that done. Next weekend, we tile (or more likely texture one of the walls which was added, but not textured or painted
ETA, everything on the floor was up - we just have a little more sweeping to do
Last edited:
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