Our new coop for our disabled and rehected chick

[rosemarythyme]

P.S. there are three 2.5" holes

Those add approx. 0.1 sq ft of ventilation. Ideally you want to shoot for 1 sq ft per bird in ventilation, most up high, open 24/7 and especially at night when the moisture from breathing and ammonia from poop need to escape.

 

[clint_and_laura]

Those add approx. 0.1 sq ft of ventilation. Ideally you want to shoot for 1 sq ft per bird in ventilation, most up high, open 24/7 and especially at night when the moisture from breathing and ammonia from poop need to escape.

1 Sq ft per bird seems really high. Our current store bought coop doesn't have 1 Sq ft if the doors and windows are closed and they usually are closed. Our last one didn't either so I didn't think too much about it. I also thought they would get cold in the winter but this is apparently not so in my climate.

If I raise the roof an inch using blocks on the corners I get 1 sq foot (38"x4x1"/144), give or take a bit. I really don't want openings on the windward side so I guess I'll have to get creative.

If I raise the roof to increase ventilation to the 1 sq ft/chicken it is going to make removing the roof difficult to impossible. I really wanted to be able to take it off for cleaning since it the floor is low to the ground.

 

[rosemarythyme]

1 Sq ft per bird seems really high. Our current store bought coop doesn't have 1 Sq ft if the doors and windows are closed and they usually are closed. Our last one didn't either so I didn't think too much about it. I also thought they would get cold in the winter but this is apparently not so in my climate.

If I raise the roof an inch using blocks on the corners I get 1 sq foot (38"x4x1"/144), give or take a bit. I really don't want openings on the windward side so I guess I'll have to get creative.

If I raise the roof to increase ventilation to the 1 sq ft/chicken it is going to make removing the roof difficult to impossible. I really wanted to be able to take it off for cleaning since it the floor is low to the ground.

It really isn't. I have close to 3 sq ft open per bird, even through winter. But my coop walls are really tall (like 9 1/2' at peak) so I have a lot more vertical space to put vents and windows than most people would. Since it sounds like you have a mild climate you aren't going to have the issues that some folks face, like frostbite risk at the point of freezing due to high moisture levels, but ammonia still needs a way to escape or else the birds are breathing it in overnight.

I can only advise to add as much as feasibly possible. A 1" gap all around would still provide more than the holes currently there.

 

[McChooky]

We had chickens when I was growing up but ours roosted in trees.I made the same mistake with my first coop too but after I was told about the need for ventilation I corrected the problem by raising my roof 2 feet.I tore my rafters down,made the sides taller and designed my roof to have an overhang.

 

[clint_and_laura]

It really isn't. I have close to 3 sq ft open per bird, even through winter. But my coop walls are really tall (like 9 1/2' at peak) so I have a lot more vertical space to put vents and windows than most people would. Since it sounds like you have a mild climate you aren't going to have the issues that some folks face, like frostbite risk at the point of freezing due to high moisture levels, but ammonia still needs a way to escape or else the birds are breathing it in overnight.

I can only advise to add as much as feasibly possible. A 1" gap all around would still provide more than the holes currently there.

Please do not think that I do not value your feedback. Thank you. A lot of the last reply is me mulling over your feedback and comparing it to the coops we bought before. I based the size and height of the box on them. I did not consider that ventilation might be inadequate in the previous coops. As a result of comments from you and others I opened the windows in the current store bought coop.

I read the link you provided, pulled up a couple more from Google searches, and am trying to figure out the best way to add ventilation, keep the coop low to the ground, and still keep it easy to clean. I do not like a poopy coop.

I think I will raise the roof some using blocks and cut a window on the downwind side where the automatic door is. I'm still going to have to figure out how to keep water out of it but I have 3 or 4 months before rainy season (if it rains at all.)

 

[McChooky]

Please do not think that I do not value your feedback. Thank you. A lot of the last reply is me mulling over your feedback and comparing it to the coops we bought before. I based the size and height of the box on them. I did not consider that ventilation might be inadequate in the previous coops. As a result of comments from you and others I opened the windows in the current store bought coop.

I read the link you provided, pulled up a couple more from Google searches, and am trying to figure out the best way to add ventilation, keep the coop low to the ground, and still keep it easy to clean. I do not like a poopy coop.

I think I will raise the roof some using blocks and cut a window on the downwind side where the automatic door is. I'm still going to have to figure out how to keep water out of it but I have 3 or 4 months before rainy season (if it rains at all.)

Placing the coop under a shelter will prevent snow blocking the door and rain or snow entering the door, windows and vents.Attaching a tarp over it is all you'd need.

 

[McChooky]

Placing the coop under a shelter will prevent snow blocking the door and rain or snow entering the door, windows and vents.Attaching a tarp over it is all you'd need.

This are used in gardens as a trellis for veggies ( you could grow flowers on it)

 

[rosemarythyme]

Please do not think that I do not value your feedback. Thank you. A lot of the last reply is me mulling over your feedback and comparing it to the coops we bought before. I based the size and height of the box on them. I did not consider that ventilation might be inadequate in the previous coops. As a result of comments from you and others I opened the windows in the current store bought coop.

I read the link you provided, pulled up a couple more from Google searches, and am trying to figure out the best way to add ventilation, keep the coop low to the ground, and still keep it easy to clean. I do not like a poopy coop.

I think I will raise the roof some using blocks and cut a window on the downwind side where the automatic door is. I'm still going to have to figure out how to keep water out of it but I have 3 or 4 months before rainy season (if it rains at all.)

No problem. I think it's something that a lot of folks don't think about because many prefab coops aren't well ventilated, and it seems crazy to want to put a ton of extra ventilation in when you keep seeing "dry and draft free" as the way to go with a coop, and yet it become a problem during hot spells or cold spells when it gets so hot that birds won't go in, or conversely when they're getting frostbite at only 32F.

You obviously care about your birds because you built special housing to accommodate the birds with special needs, so I just want to make sure they're getting an optimal set up that hopefully still meets your needs since obviously you're the one that has to clean and manage their coop. Like for me, I can't do all the bending and lifting any more so my set up is designed to keep me standing upright.