Overhang construction question

[fiddlebanshee]

The shed I've bought has no roof overhang. So where the vents are, and the nestboxes, I will have to create somekind of overhang to protect the openings from the weather. What I am thinking of doing is the following, but having zero to no construction experience I thought I'd better ask here first.

These are the steps I intend to do:
1. screw a 2x4 8 feet long just under the roof, parallel to the ground, to the side of the shed
2. fasten at an 45 degree angle 4 2x4 joists to the member I just put up, sticking out about 12 "
3. put another cross member across the joists at the lower front end
4. put some 2x4s horizontally going back to the wall to support the weight
5. nail osb on top of this assembly
6. put tar paper on it,
7. put somekind of shingle on it or other roofing material.

I hope you understand my plan. Please let me know if this would work or if it would fall down at the first breeze.
Questions:
Are there 45 degree brackets that you can use to mount the joists easily? If yes, what are they called?
Should I have some kind of post supporting the overhang?
Is 12" overhang enough?

TIA!!

 

[CatsvsDogs]

Do you have pictures of said structure???

I would say that your plan sounds good. Only thing you might change is in step #2 you might want to put a 12 to 20 degree cut instead of the 45. That is going to maximize your overhang. And yes there are hangers that you could use but I wouldnt worry about it and just screw it real good. As far as supporting the weight you may need some knee braces but that can be added as needed. Maybe you could use wood shingles which would allow you to cut back on a lot of weight because then you would only need to add a couple purlins instead of osb.

Pics!pics!pics!

 

[fiddlebanshee]

This is a pic of the shed as it is now. The siding is T1-11 over plywood with studs 16" oc. I haven't had it delivered yet, i'm just planning ahead. On this side i want to create an overhang over the access to the nest boxes, which will be flat with the wall and some windows above it. I might repeat this on all sides except the side where the double entrance doors are ( they are on the other slanted side of the shed), depending on how easy it is to install.

Also, what are purlins? 'Scuse my ingnorance, and thanks! ETA: I think I know what purlins are, they are small pieces of wood that go over the long side creating a grid with the joists, that you would nail the roofing to, correct?

 

[bigstack]

I just used old tin on mine. I just screwed it to the roof and let it over hang the roof to cover the nest boxes. CHEAP and easy!!!

No extra support needed!

Good luck and God Bless!

 

[CatsvsDogs]

Quote:
I am going to digress and use the word skip sheeting instead of purlin. And yes you are correct it is used as a nailer for the wood shingles. But You may just stick with a laminate shingle to match what is on it. In that case the OSB is your ticket.

 

[fiddlebanshee]

Gotcha! I'm glad I'm figuring this out and that my basic design makes sense. The hardest thing is the terminology, I don't know what all these thingymabobs are called, but I can visualize them. Makes it really hard to go into Home Depot and ask for things.

Thanks again!

 

[patandchickens]

In general that sounds like a good plan.

Just two comments: it would be much much lighter weight (and possibly cheaper, and certainly eaiser to build) if you used sheets of metal or corrugated plastic roofing, instead of shingles-over-tarpaper-over-OSB. The lighter it is, the more snowload it will hold (all other things being equal, and assuming you install all roofing *correctly*) and the less it will tend to sag or pull away from the shed.

Also, esp. if you are in an area that gets wet snowfalls, you might want to flash or at least caulk the area where the two roofs meet, so that wet snow sitting there does not create a lot of water standing against the upper wall and top plate of the main shed, or the 2x4 that the added roof hangs from, and rot them over time.

Good luck, have fun,

Pat

 

[fiddlebanshee]

Is this what you mean?
That looks doable, and I like the flashing that connects the corrugated stuff with the wall for added waterproofing.

 

[patandchickens]

Quote:
Huh, wait til you PRICE that proprietary flashing. Eeep. You can do just about as well with plain ol' flashing and/or a tube o' caulk, at least in terms of functionality...

(Far be it from me to inhibit you from stimulating the economy, of course, and the mfr's stuff DOES look pretty spiff, all I'm saying is, wait til you price it...)

Anyhow yes that is more or less what I'm suggesting. Either plastic or metal roofing, whichever you prefer. Personally I'd use 1x3-4 or 2x4 as nailers going straight across, rather than the blocking between rafters that diagram shows, but it depends whatca got handy and how you prefer spending your time, I guess (I am notably lazy

). Do make really really certain that you get the mfr's installation brochure for the exact brand of roofing that you buy, to make sure that your rafter spacing and purlin spacing and overhangs are all within appropriate spec's; and use proper, neoprene-gasketed roofing screws to install the stuff, through holes predrilled to the right size. That may make it sound real complicated but it is NOT, it is super easy to install, it's just that if you don't do it right it doesn't perform so well, so it is good to obey the instructions

Good luck, have fun,

Pat