Pennsylvania!! Unite!!

[fisherlady]

I was wrong about not having welded wire under the tarp. There is welded wire 4' up the sides underneath the tarp, just none on the very top curved section. The tarp covers just a bit over half the coop including the welded wire portion and cattle panel section w/o welded wire at the arched top. 

Do you think I need hardware cloth around the bottom 24" of the coop all around or maybe at each end where there is only welded wire or no not at all? What would be the purpose of hardware cloth if I already have cattle panels wrapped with 2x4 welded wire? (Girls do roost reliably and are not on ground at night)

Another friend suggested electric around the perimeter of the coop baited w/ a piece of chicken skin, meat, etc to draw in the fox. After a good zap on his nose, he seemed to indicate that may deter repeated attempts at entry. Any suggestion on a good inexpensive set-up that is solar or battery powered? 

I construct enclosures with the intent they will deter stray dogs/coyotes (stongest predator other than bear, no way to build anything bear-proof)
Wire needs to be of a minimum of the thickness/gauge of hardware cloth wire, I prefer the 14g wire like rabbit fencing or the goat wire. We use 1/2 ×1" for the bottom 2 feet at least because of our broodies but 1x1 works if you aren't keeping chicks.
As for wire opening dimensions...as stated, smaller is needed for first couple of feet to prevent chicks getting out and average predators from reaching in to grab at birds. Above that the dimensions need to be small enough to prevent entry of the smallest predators in your area. Weasels? Raccoons? Fishers? Some areas will be fine for the average 2x4 goat fencing, if weasels or fishers are in your area you may want to stay with 1x2 wire or chain link.
Remember that most predators are actually very good climbers, even fox if there is any slope on the enclosure. If they can reach it they can use it as an entry. They may be stuck inside then, but by then the damage is done.
Most predators are also good diggers. So a perimeter apron is a good idea. Electricity may provide good perimeter coverage for this.

 

[chxmama]

I construct enclosures with the intent they will deter stray dogs/coyotes (stongest predator other than bear, no way to build anything bear-proof)
Wire needs to be of a minimum of the thickness/gauge of hardware cloth wire, I prefer the 14g wire like rabbit fencing or the goat wire. We use 1/2 ×1" for the bottom 2 feet at least because of our broodies but 1x1 works if you aren't keeping chicks.
As for wire opening dimensions...as stated, smaller is needed for first couple of feet to prevent chicks getting out and average predators from reaching in to grab at birds. Above that the dimensions need to be small enough to prevent entry of the smallest predators in your area. Weasels? Raccoons? Fishers? Some areas will be fine for the average 2x4 goat fencing, if weasels or fishers are in your area you may want to stay with 1x2 wire or chain link.
Remember that most predators are actually very good climbers, even fox if there is any slope on the enclosure. If they can reach it they can use it as an entry. They may be stuck inside then, but by then the damage is done.
Most predators are also good diggers. So a perimeter apron is a good idea. Electricity may provide good perimeter coverage for this.

How wide should my wire apron be? Is folded/double layer chicken wire thick/strong enough to deter digging?
Suggestions for an electric solution that isn't permanent? Hoop coop will be moved several times per week.

 

[fisherlady]

How wide should my wire apron be? Is folded/double layer chicken wire thick/strong enough to deter digging? 
Suggestions for an electric solution that isn't permanent? Hoop coop will be moved several times per week. 

Doubled over chicken wire will work but needs to be securely staked down. I prefer stouter wire like goat fencing if you have it because it doesn't rip or stretch like chicken wire and it will stand up to the moving and restaking longer.
16-18 inches is good.
I would check on solar fencers, rural king or tractor supply or check amazon. Figure out the total distance around the coop and at least double it to find minimal fence capacity needed. Go as big as you can afford in case you want to expand the protected area.

 

[WackyQuacky]

Wh at is the EggHatcher app for?

It helps you keep track of eggs whether in incubator or under mum you can put when they started and what kind of bird and it calculates hatch day and notifies you and all kinds of stuff. If incubator it auto fills in temps and all kinds of useful info when you select bird type. I was impressed and couldn't believe it was free.

 

[chxmama]

Doubled over chicken wire will work but needs to be securely staked down. I prefer stouter wire like goat fencing if you have it because it doesn't rip or stretch like chicken wire and it will stand up to the moving and restaking longer.
16-18 inches is good.
I would check on solar fencers, rural king or tractor supply or check amazon. Figure out the total distance around the coop and at least double it to find minimal fence capacity needed. Go as big as you can afford in case you want to expand the protected area.

Thanks for your help!

 

[AnneInTheBurbs]

I will try to keep some Biels around for a while, since there is demand and they are new and not well distributed yet. Let me know when you have a broody hen and room to raise the Biels.
I am not producing any more bantam cochins from my birds, but I can get eggs from my cousin and hatch some for you when you are ready. I say someone on CL advertising Lavender Cochin bantam chicks. If I did not already have too many birds, I would get some of them.

Thanks! I appreciate it!

 

[AnneInTheBurbs]

I should have some extra bantam Cochins this summer, due to hatch soon.

Cool! Where are you located?

 

[windtryst]

Cool! Where are you located?

Chester Springs, Pa. 19425

 

[AnneInTheBurbs]

That's only about an hour from me. Definitely worth it! I'll keep you in mind, thanks!

 

[AnneInTheBurbs]

Is anyone interested in a free chicken coop? I need my coop gone soon after I rehome my chickens, in a couple weeks. I can't help move or transport, and it is a heavy sucker, but sturdy too. I am in Mid bucks county. The house is about 4x4 and has two nesting boxes. The back wall is also a door that swings wide open for easy cleaning.