Playhouse to Coop...good deal or nah?

I'm looking to attach some type of fencing to the bottom of our deck. Would "cattle panels" work so that I could buy a foot out onto ground for protection?
Sorry a new neighbor just moved in and she has a dog so I gotta do something as soon as possible.
I found this Fencing at Lowes...would this be good protection?

Are you looking at containing the birds under the deck?

Pics will help here immensely.

To make a cattle panel type arch you really need the strength of the actual cattle panels. I am sure there here are other ways/ types of fence to use to make an arch but they will often need more support.
 
Are you looking at containing the birds under the deck?

Pics will help here immensely.

To make a cattle panel type arch you really need the strength of the actual cattle panels. I am sure there here are other ways/ types of fence to use to make an arch but they will often need more support.
Yes I would be using underneath the deck as a run and the coop would be moved over up against the deck fencing so they have option to go inside coop during the day if it rains.
Here are pics as is currently. If I have to make existing pre-fab coop work, so be it - I'll just turn it around and make it work somehow.
So the deck is just behind the garden there...I have lettuce and spinach growing in container pots that they could get to when fenced in under the deck.
 

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Like someone else mentioned you should ask someone about the cedar boards, which probably are not an issue like the use of cedar shavings used on floors &


as bedding.
Cedar as the building material isn't a problem, the boards have a lot less exposed surface area than something like shavings, so it minimizes the release of aromatic oils. Plus wood used for building is generally dried or aged which further helps. My brooder (old coop) is 100% cedar - even new out of the box there was barely any cedar scent at all. Current coop has cedar trim.
 
Cedar as the building material isn't a problem, the boards have a lot less exposed surface area than something like shavings, so it minimizes the release of aromatic oils. Plus wood used for building is generally dried or aged which further helps. My brooder (old coop) is 100% cedar - even new out of the box there was barely any cedar scent at all. Current coop has cedar trim.
It can actually be an advantage over using typical fir lumber, resists rot and insects.
...and it can expensive, maybe not so much in TN tho.
 
DIY it! You can make something that fits perfectly for your situation that way! Prefabs are never the way to go and you can build something that will last for much less. With the amount your talking about, you could even pick up some tools that may start you on a few woodworking projects down the track.

If you're looking to keep material costs down, a plywood coop can get the job done and while intimidating, can actually be a relatively simple project to start off with. You'd just be worried about building the frame and the floor - then cutting the ply for your walls.

See if there's a friend or family member that would be willing to do a working bee with you or lend you some tools. The hardest part for me was getting the materials home as my car is petite and without a tow bar. If you can get over that hump, the rest just takes time and elbow grease.

My husband didn't help at all with my coop or run build, though his father did lend me a hand. It's always a learning experience and something you can come back to and keep working on later too.

With four bantam birds, they'd probably be quite happy with a 4'x4' and I'd keep the perches 'low' or build a wide ramp with rungs or tread tape for them to climb. Silkies are very reluctant to use vertical space, but they can be trained to go up a gentle ramp or steps. All the poop will be under those perches, so take that into consideration for clean-up - you will need that area to be easily reachable.
 
I currently have a pre-fab tiny coop and I've already added onto the run but it is all still a BIG joke when it comes to safety and ventilation not to even mention space.
I have 3 silkies and 1 polish all 8 wks old and live in TENNESSEE.
I ran across this and wanted yalls advice...I just needed some experienced opinions and help regarding this playhouse I have the opportunity to get.
It is 6' 3" square and made of cedar wood. I know I will need to do hardware cloth at the windows, where the board is missing at the top on left at back I could remove the others all the way across and put in hardware cloth for additional ventilation.
Easy enough to add a door and build a ramp on backside.
It is 4-5 years old, does not leak, has asphalt roll roofing, and decking for flooring.
I would have to pay $600 plus a mover to relocate it. I'm guessing that will be around $300 based on what I'm seeing online in my area.
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Yes! It's a great idea! My coop is a remodeled playhouse as well!
 

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