Yes, extend the Leghorn one because those are the one's that you keep hatching. You will need more room for them, or maybe even another coop.
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My birds are 19 weeks, and it’s really hard to watch them when they are rustling around for their roosts..the smallest, sweetest, nicest birds start doling out vicious head pecks, or constantly peck at a body until the victim is forced to move away..and mine are pampered, have more than double the roosting space they need, so, yes..they will certainly react negatively if they aren’t provided minimum amounts of space..To keep snakes, rats, opossums, raccoons, weasels, dogs, cats, foxes, bobcats, mountain lions, hawks, and owls, which multiple of these animals exist over every part of the US, you have to have either 1/2” X 1/2”, or 1/4” X 1/4” hardware cloth lining the entire coop and run including the roof, inside of the coop walls, or outside of the coop walls. You must also have 2 ft of no climb horse fencing or barb wire buried in ground around the entire enclosure. This is the only way to have a predator proof place. I learned the hard way to begin with. If you use any wire bigger than this then snakes and rats can enter, and opossums and raccoons will reach through and either yank birds through even when you think the bird couldn’t possibly fit, or they will reach in and grab them and chew whatever part of them they can get to the wire leaving parts they can’t get through for you to find later. Unfortunately some of them may still be alive missing body parts. Never use chicken wire! I have had this happen. Just a tarp over the top of anything will get chewed through or torn even by hawks and owls. It’s a lot of work, time, and money, but eventually you will loose birds or entire flock if this isn’t done. I use a staple gun to attach my hardware cloth to my coops, and I have wood at every section where a new piece of hardware cloth meets another section. Would be a lot of work to wire together the hardware cloth otherwise. You wouldn’t have to put in ground fencing around the coop part if there is concrete under it at least. It is also very important to have a sandbox or old tire filled with sand and perches or wood stumps or something for them to climb on in the run too. They need sand to clean with and prevent mites. They need lots of roosting places so submissive birds don’t get picked on to death. But you also need plenty of space for them on the ground so don’t over crowd the coop with too much in too small a space. This is why chickens always have at least 10 square feet of space per bird in the coop, and at least 20 square feet outdoor run area. So many people keep them in smaller areas, then complain when their birds get sick, or peck each other till they are sick or dead. Birds can be extremely cruel at times. I have had many different breeds and it will eventually happen.
The plan is coming together. And I intend to use use that nice strong fencing across the top of the run to keep predators out. There will be 1/4" hardware cloth around the perimeter and partially along the ground to discourage predators from digging. Once that's done, in go the Dorkings and I start on the Leghorn coop.Yes, extend the Leghorn one because those are the one's that you keep hatching. You will need more room for them, or maybe even another coop.
edit..a drill and self tapping lath screws with rubber sided metal washers is a better way to attach hardware cloth. You can tack it all up with a staple gun, that’s what I did, but real strength comes from screws and washers.
There are staples and then there are staples.
The little, hand-staple gun staples holding the tarp on my brooder are no good:![]()
The larger, but still narrow-crowned staples I used on these doors are better, but I'm going to put in an extra row for reinforcement:
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The fence staples shot in by our heavy-duty stapler are secure:
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I would put the chicken wire on top of the tarp. It's easier to attach to the frame and will prevent the tarp from blowing as much.I'm thinking of covering the frame with chicken wire underneath the tarp to keep the hawks out and the chickens in in case it should come apart in the wind, and maintaining the tarp as best as I can.
Dorkings are AMAZING chickens!!! I only have one hen left but she such a good layer when she isn't broody or raising chicks! She's worth her weight in gold in my book!I plan to put 4 Dorkings in there to start with, then once they've established their presence there, add 4 Leghorns. Since the Dorkings are mellow compared to the Leghorns, my guess is that by letting them into the territory first it might result in less arguing among the flock than if I put them all in there at once. Currently I have 2 Dorkings in a chicken tractor, and 2 more in a grow-out pen that are nearly full sized.
I have 4 Dorking girls. They're silver grey, and two are a year old, two were hatched in May.Dorkings are AMAZING chickens!!! I only have one hen left but she such a good layer when she isn't broody or raising chicks! She's worth her weight in gold in my book!
Yes, the Dorking's are nice. I have 3 here, a pullet and 2 cockerel's.Dorkings are AMAZING chickens!!! I only have one hen left but she such a good layer when she isn't broody or raising chicks! She's worth her weight in gold in my book!
Yes, you seem to be destined to have Dorkings in your life.Yes, the Dorking's are nice. I have 3 here, a pullet and 2 cockerel's.