Trying to remember what was said
First DO NOT seperate the chickens
they will be in big trouble when you want them to lay in one chicken house
or is this just something that will be discarded when easter is over
Chicks are NOT toys and need simple living quarters and feed and water and heat
they are live birds not toys
Also I would use numbered bands or spiral bands that are sold at strombergs order house in minnesota
the use of the electric ties is PEOPLE make the MISTAKE of not watching as the chick gets a few weeks older and they will cut the leg into and have to be killed.
This is very important 3WATCH THE TIES DON'T GET TOO TIGHT
Okay the reason I DON'T like nail polish is that draws attention to the chicks feet and the others will pick them and start havic in the bird box.
Surely you will have time to read my article
WHAT CHICKENS NEED DAILY
Chickens need shelter from the the elements and
protection from preditors. This is normally in the
form of housing of wood construction and an outdoor
run with poultry wire sides and top. It is
important that the chickens roost in the coop with
the door closed to protect them from nighttime
preditors unless the pen is constructed with heavy
guage welded wire.
It is much more expensive than poultry wire, but,
it will withstand the attempts of destruction by most
any predator. The design of the coop is based on
size, quantity, and type of chickens being housed.
Layers require nest boxes in which to lay there
eggs. The roost is designed to accommodate the number
being housed in relation to the size of coop.
In other words, enough space to keep them close
together during cold weather and also to give them
more space during hot weather. The coop needs to be
ventilated to allow fresh air to flow through it to
keep it free of moisture and ammonia. Ammonia is in
their droppings and the odor will continue to build
if the moisture level is too high.
I design my coops with cross ventilation and they
are fine for my climatic conditions. Using pine
shavings on the floor of the coop, is an important
part in the moisture equation. Some people use hay
or straw; not as absorbant as the shavings and can
harbor molds. Shavings are actually less expensive
than hay or straw and has to be replaced less often.
The most important of all the needs of chickens is
fresh water daily. The water container should be
cleaned daily to eliminate bacteria. I clean these
with a bleach/water solution at least once weekly. I
use 1 teaspoon of bleach per 1 gallon of fresh water
as their daily water supply, since I live in a rural
area and use well water. City water does not require
the bleach as an additive.
Stale water is not good for them and if it is left
in direct sunlight, can form Algae. Algae
poisoning is common in poorly managed conditions.
Lack of fresh water can cause death, primarily from
salt poisoning. Chickens can die from salt overdose
within hours.
Feed must contain the proper amount of protein for
the needs of the particular type of chicken and it's
age. Commercial feeds are formulated to meet those
needs. Layer chicks require medicated chick
starter for the first eight weeks of their lives and
a developer until eighteen weeks of age; gradually
change their rations to layer crumbles or pellets.
Broiler chicks, sporting birds, and specialty flocks
require different rations that are especially
formulated for them.
Mixing of these feeds, causes an imbalance of the
protein and is not recommended. "Scratch Feed" is
used by many as a way to reduce costs, but, egg
production drops and the hens are not in prime
condition when this is done. I consider this type of
feed to be a treat and give it to them periodically
as a second meal in the day.
I also like to give my chickens lots of greens in
their diet. The greens are nutritious and adds color
to the yolks of their eggs. I give them fruit, also.
They love to see me coming with banana peels or apple
peels.
The chickens need some variety in their lives just
as people do, to avoid boredom. Chickens that are
confined to the same location each day, start bad
habits to overcome their boredom. Overcrowding is
another reason for bad habits. I have designed a
Mobile Unit to help eliminate these problems and to
give them access to fresh ground as needed.
This unit can house up to eight hens and gives them
security from predators. Since it has an optional
wheel assembly, I can easily move it and the
chickens as needed.
The health of the chickens can be enhanced by
maintaining a good environment for them. This does
not eliminate the possibility for them to become ill.
One should be prepared for the common illnesses and
implement a preventive maintenance program from the
onset. Chickens that are in contact with the
ground are susceptible to worms, and should be
treated with a wormer if they show signs of an
overload of these parasites.
Mites and lice are also a common problem that
can be remedied before they become a problem. If you
give them garlic on a monthly basis, both of
the above problems will be minimized. I administer
1/8 teaspoon of powdered garlic per gallon of water
as their sole source of drinking water once per
month.
The coop should be kept clean and free of drafts,
to reduce the possibility of respiratory diseases.
You should also practice Biosecurity to minimize the
risk of diseases being brought in from other flocks.
There are some things that you can do to get the
maximum enjoyment from your flock. Spend some
time with them each day, and they will learn to
accept you as part of the flock. You should be able
to pick up any of them to inspect for potential
problems, and petting. The more you pet them, the
more they like it.
You should read several books on how to raise them;
I say several, as none of them cover everything you
need to know. I have enjoyed the writings of Gail
Damerow. She has written several good books on
poultry and an excellent book on their health; "The
Chicken Health Handbook".
Something else you may elect to do is, join a
poultry club in your area. There are many clubs
nationwide, but sorry to say, they do very little
advertising. Some of them have monthly meetings.. The
meetings are times when we can get together and
discuss our poultry and ways to improve on their
environment.
Most of the members exhibit their poultry at the
shows throughout the year. The shows are excellent
avenues for learning about quality of the many
breeds. The breeders usually have some of their stock
to sell during or after the show.
It is a great way to purchase new stock. All
the entries have been tested for Pollorum and
Typhoid and that is a huge step in the direction of
healthy chickens. It is good practice to quarantine
newly purchased poultry for thirty days.
This will give you sufficient time to determine their
health and habits. When you do put them in with the
rest of the flock, a new pecking order will
be established. This could cause damage to some of
them, and should be monitored until they have
adjusted.
There are several techniques to use to minimize the
aggressiveness. One way is to put the new ones in a
wire cage within the coop for a few days. Release
them at night and put them on the roost with
the others. Monitor them the next day and if one or
two of the original hens are still too
aggressive, then put them in the cage for a few
days. This should take care of any further problems.
I hope this information will help you maximize your
poultry enjoyment.
Hopefully this information will halp you see not to seperate but care for them
