Pop door better opening from inside or outside? Swing or slide open?

kathyinmo

Nothing In Moderation
15 Years
16 Years
May 14, 2009
24,541
385
556
(SW MO) Nevada, Missouri
My Coop
My Coop
This weekend we are putting in the pop doors ... 2 I think. What do you suggest, as far as how to do this? From the inside or from the outside? Swing open from hinges, or slide open? Wood or other material? Opening about 12" square?

All suggestions appreciated.
 
I really like mine. It opens out into the run and is held up by a chain...when I close it in the evenings, it has 2 latches on the inside securing it from being pulled open. It settles inside the 2 x4 framing so nothing can reach under the edge and yank it up...even if they were strong enough to break the latches inside, there is nothing to grab onto to pull it open.

I did not have mine go in because I did not want anything to push in on it and slip inside.


drawbridge.jpg


This will show you how it looks open and you can see the 2 x 4 frame

firstsnow3.jpg


inside1-1.jpg


I can get a better picture of it tomorrow if you'd like. but I think you get the idea from this.
 
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My coop is small so my pop door opens on the outside. Even with my old larger, walk-in coop I preferred the pop door opening on the outside. Mine is on regular hinges, but I will be replacing the with spring loaded hinges soon.
30865_nesting_boxes_and_chickens_023.jpg

30865_chick_in_the_run_003.jpg
 
I used to have a slider, but I discovered that bedding got caught up in the track and made it hard to slide.

I prefer them to open out and be hinged on the side like a people-door. That way I can't drop the door and hit my birds in the head anymore. (Don't ask!)

I think mine measure about 10X14.
 
I like the sliders. They are EASY to make and last a long time.

I put mine INSIDE the coop because of the weather.

I have a rope that I pull and a hook that I put the rope on
that is to the side. Simple, safe, long lasting, easy to make and
predator proof.

I even made a place for the bottom of the slide to go into a area so no outside "paws" could get under the door and slide it up.

I elevated the bottom off the floor of the coop by 3 inches so the shavings would be held to a mininum.

I made an area inside the coop in front of the door so the birds will launch off this instead of the shavings that are underneath it.

I also made a little roof outside the coop over the door so rain would not get into the coop.

Right now the "coop" is being used as a nursery so the pop door has hardware wire over it. When the birds are really small I open this so they can look out at the world.
When they get older they have an "window" to look out with a shelf area to perch on.

The little turds are pretty spoiled.
 
I really like our slider because it doesn't take up any room when it opens and it is very difficult to push/pull open if an animal gets into the run.

It is an "up and down" slider rather than side to side. No bedding gets caught, other than at the bottom a bit and that doesn't keep it from closing securely. It is about 6" above the coop floor. Door is wooden 1/2" thick cabinet quality ply-board, we used 1x2s for the inside track on both sides of the pop-hole so door slides up and down easily, spaced with 3/4" wooden strips. Top center of door we screwed an eye bolt, then another on a board above the door that is even with first eye and level with a small hole/opening leading outside the coop. We finished that hole with a brass grommet. A string of synthetic clothesline is tied to the door's eye bolt, laced through the eye above that and then outside through the grommet. We can open and close from outside the coop by pulling the string and tying off on a small cleat mounted to the wall. It works beautifully, is very secure, and no going inside to work it, plus it takes up no space as it slides up the wall.

Just remember that your slider track needs to be about 2x as high as your door so that when it is fully open, it is still inside the track. Also, don't make the track too much deeper than the depth of your door. Too much room and it can get wiggly, too tight and it may stick when it gets hot/cold/wet/dry.
 
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I made mine 12 x 12 and it opens on the side. It opens inside the run and latches on the inside, too. If you don't mind going into the run everyday and night to open/close it, then it wouldn't be so bad. I figured that I had to go in in in the morning to check for eggs and at night to make sure their all in...
 
Our's is constructed to slide. It is framed by 2 x 4s that have a notch cut out so that the slide is recessed 3/4 inch on the sides and bottom. I believe it is totally preditor proof.

Nothing can get a claw in to push, pull or slide it open. It is now connected to a steel cable that runs over to the main door so we can remotely open and close it from outside the run and coop. The only drawback with this design is that the bottom groove gets filled up with pine chips and has to be cleaned out every three or four days.


Popdoor.jpg
 
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My chicken door has been in use over 15 years. It's hinged on the bottom and when opened forms the ramp down to the run. Notes: The hinge area is covered with a strip of inner tube rubber which flexes and prevents poop buildup in the hinge area. The end of the door/ramp has bolts screwed in to act as "landing legs" to contact the concrete block to prevent the wood from getting dirt/wet on the end and rotting. The door has a metal latch salvaged from an old window to close up at night. See my BYC page for pics.
 

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