Does an A-frame coop/run need a real floor or can it be open air?

[BDutch]

I'm hoping to put 1/2 inch hardware cloth underneath as well to prevent weasels and stuff getting in.

If you put hwc underneath the chickens cant scratch and might hurt their feet at some point?

You need slabs all around to prevent predators from dogging underneath.

This setup is probably large enough to move weekly. Invest in the slab and lay stones some on top. Rather than moving daily.

Chickens don’t need a cage as long as the weather is fine. They need cover for the hot sun and storms. And a roost to rest/sleep on and feel safe.

 

[ChaosMom]

A frame chicken coops are cheap to build.This is one of my favorite ones .I found it online recently.My coop would need to be bigger than this but I love the design of the 'run'

Is the A-frame sitting on deck rails? Nice way to avoid that nearly lost space where the slanted wall meets the ground. My lower back approves, lol.

So, an elevated A-frame. That's an interesting look!

 

[BlindLemonChicken]

If you put hwc underneath the chickens cant scratch and might hurt their feet at some point?

You need slabs all around to prevent predators from dogging underneath.

This setup is probably large enough to move weekly. Invest in the slab and lay stones some on top. Rather than moving daily.

Chickens don’t need a cage as long as the weather is fine. They need cover for the hot sun and storms. And a roost to rest/sleep on and feel safe.

My old run had hwc on the bottom and we never had issues with feet. You put dirt on top of it though and that would defeat the chicken tractor idea.

 

[McChooky]

Is the A-frame sitting on deck rails? Nice way to avoid that nearly lost space where the slanted wall meets the ground. My lower back approves, lol.

So, an elevated A-frame. That's an interesting look!

Or use the heavy 'blue' pallets on the sides . (its all I can do to move one) I have to have help when I build anything out of those.

 

[McChooky]

Is the A-frame sitting on deck rails? Nice way to avoid that nearly lost space where the slanted wall meets the ground. My lower back approves, lol.

So, an elevated A-frame. That's an interesting look!

I'd cover the top to protect the frame and make it last. Runs force predators to hunt somewhere else .I try to free range 1-4 hrs a day

 

[Poppy Putentake]

Hi InvertGang,

I built an A-frame tractor but do not recommned them.

Problems:

1. If the tractor includes roosting space and nest boxes, it will probablly end up too heavy to move quickly and easilly.

2. If the underneath is open to the ground (the main idea behind tractors), it is hard to make this predator-proof (and making it more so will add to the difficulty of moving the tractor).

3. The A-frame design makes for limited "upstairs" space and general limitations on the layout.

4. If it has a triangular cross-section, snow will accumulate along the edges. (A house-shaped cross-section is better.)

5. Without lots of openings, it is inconvenient for a human to reach all parts of the interior.

What I recommend (and what I am planning to build to replace my tractor) is a fully enclosed (including the floor), predator-secure fairly conventional coop with a large door giving convenient access to all parts of the interior. I've got some plans I'd be glad to share with you. (You are welcome to private-message me about this.)

In addition to the coop, I am thinking of a a lightweight, easilly movable "day tractor" -- a run enclosed on sides and top, but open on the bottom, that they could be released into in the daytime when there is snow on the ground, or if I want them confined, or there is another reason to not free-range them.

Regarding cold weather, it is generally not a big problem in the northern tier of the US, but good ventilation in the coop is important to avoid dampness.

 

[ChaosMom]

I'd cover the top to protect the frame and make it last. Runs force predators to hunt somewhere else .I try to free range 1-4 hrs a day

Oh, absolutely. I just thought that deck railing as wall was a cool look.

 

[McChooky]

Oh, absolutely. I just thought that deck railing as wall was a cool look.

I'm making one for my cats too

 

[McChooky]

Hi InvertGang,

I built an A-frame tractor but do not recommned them.

Problems:

1. If the tractor includes roosting space and nest boxes, it will probablly end up too heavy to move quickly and easilly.

2. If the underneath is open to the ground (the main idea behind tractors), it is hard to make this predator-proof (and making it more so will add to the difficulty of moving the tractor).

3. The A-frame design makes for limited "upstairs" space and general limitations on the layout.

4. If it has a triangular cross-section, snow will accumulate along the edges. (A house-shaped cross-section is better.)

5. Without lots of openings, it is inconvenient for a human to reach all parts of the interior.

What I recommend (and what I am planning to build to replace my tractor) is a fully enclosed (including the floor), predator-secure fairly conventional coop with a large door giving convenient access to all parts of the interior. I've got some plans I'd be glad to share with you. (You are welcome to private-message me about this.)

In addition to the coop, I am thinking of a a lightweight, easilly movable "day tractor" -- a run enclosed on sides and top, but open on the bottom, that they could be released into in the daytime when there is snow on the ground, or if I want them confined, or there is another reason to not free-range them.

Regarding cold weather, it is generally not a big problem in the northern tier of the US, but good ventilation in the coop is important to avoid dampness.

I made a 4 x 6 raised coop when I 1st started raising chickens then I made a portable coop that sits on a concrete slab. My next coop will be 6 ft tall and 10 ft wide so I can do my chicken chores indoors

 

[Ted Brown]

I live near Ottawa, familiar with your climate challenges.

Fresh air coops can work here but require a design that ensures the birds have an area with no drafts both when on the roosts and during day time hours. I am not convinced that your design can accomplish this.

As has been pointed out, the likelihood of moving a 10' x 8' tractor every few days is, IMHO, not high. You, for sure, are not going to be moving it in the winter.

Your neighbour's suggestion that chickens can stay in a small coop over the winter is wishful thinking. (The lady who cuts my hair assumed this, ended with bullying and a couple of dead hens.)

I also think that you have not given enough thought to yourself and the daily maintenance that chickens require. Things like:

• access for you into coop (needs to be easy especially in the winter and preferable to the inside so you do not have to shovel snow to access things like eggs & poop & food/water)
• water in the winter; without electricity water will freeze in a few short hours so you will be carting water multiple times a day

Your conclusion re a conventional coop & run is encouraged, if it were me I would also have a solid roof over at least a portion of the run.

Given your questions and the design I am going to assume this is your first experience with chickens. I am six years into my experience and am still modifying things to optimize my coop & run; this even though I researched for close to a year and found a design that suited my goals.

Designing from scratch with no experience is an invitation to frustration and failure. You want to enjoy the experience or you will soon abandon the effort.

I strongly encourage that you find a proven design that fits your needs. Rather than spend time designing something that won't work I would create a list of your ideal needs/desires (eg space for 6 chickens, heated water, ability to collect eggs with getting rained on or having to move snow, etc.). Once done post it here and ask for input. Use these to find a design that fits.