***Potty Training??

[patandchickens]

I probably shouldn't be posting since I have been a dog owner for exactly four months now

but I would second the suggestion of attaching the dog to you whenever he is out of the crate in the house (so you can keep an eye on him for any suggestion of restlessness, sniffing, circling, or 'assuming the position'). Between attaching the dog to you and crating, there really should not be much OPPORTUNITY for the dog to have an accident, unless he does it in his crate.

Also, have you tried putting elimination on CUE, so that you can hopefully get the dog more aware of the specific act and your desire to have it happen specifically-outdoors? Just say whatever phrase you want to use (I use 'do your business', but plenty of other equally-dorky alternatives can be thought up LOL) every time the dog is peeing or pooing on its own. After a bunch of this, try saying it jsut before the dog does it but when you think he wants to. In time (I am sure it varies among dogs, but with Russell it was real quick, probably a few days) the dog will start to associate the phrase with the action and it will start to function as a cue. This is also real useful if you want to take the dog outside to 'do its business' without having to stand around la la la la la til nature calls... so it can also help avoid the situation where the dog holds it when taken outside because he'd rather play, but then arrives back *indoors* with a still-full bladder or whatever.

Just a thought, and as I say I really don't have hardly any experience with this so you might take it with a grain of salt or check with others,

Pat

 

[thebritt]

Quote:
To be clear - the episode of which I speak invoved a young puppy that had a laundry room (with a kidde-gate) for a space to be in when total supervision (such as while cooking dinner, whatever) was not possible. This could work anytime the dog was not in a crate. They also (since the pup in the episode was small) used a mobile enclosure in the family room layered w/pee pads, removed 1 by 1 over time. If you haven't seen the show (on Animal Planet), I do recommend checking it out. Victoria uses only positive reinforcement, and I've had quite a bit of luck with her methods. I do, however, realize that we don't all think alike. Obviously, with an almost grown dog, going outside is the best. In the case w/the pup in the show, the owners were concerned with extreme outdoor winter temps and the small puppy (a beagle mix). Or maybe it was the people who didn't want to go outside in the cold. In any case, the method worked well for them!
As for ice vs water - there's no problem with a dog not having access to water during the night. That's a basic way to approach night-time peeing. We have a 10 yr old dog on seizure meds that cause her to get thirsty at night, but then she has accidents - usually around 4am. If I hear her jingling collar, I'll let her out, but I don't always, so removing water after 10pm has been working well. I leave a water bowl on the cat-feeding shelf for the cats, but the dogs must go w/out for 8 hrs.

 

[BeccaB00]

Quote:
yes, I use "go potty!" . I think she's got the cue down-pat, because I'll say "go potty bridgit" and she'll start sniffing a place to go, if she gets distracted (which happens ALOT) I'll say "Go potty Bridgit!" And she'll start sniffing again. So basically, I think shes just having problems letting me know when shes gotta go.

 

[redhen]

Quote:
yes, I use "go potty!" . I think she's got the cue down-pat, because I'll say "go potty bridgit" and she'll start sniffing a place to go, if she gets distracted (which happens ALOT) I'll say "Go potty Bridgit!" And she'll start sniffing again. So basically, I think shes just having problems letting me know when shes gotta go.

If she doesnt go when you bring her outside ..then she comes inside and goes right back in the crate. OR attached to you by a leash.
And try again in 15-30 minutes...
Dont bring her back inside and let her roam the house... cause then she'll just pee inside.

 

[Garden Gal]

Redyre hit the nail on the head. Corporal punishment and shoving a dog's head even near his own feces is abusive and old, old school ways of training. Going back to the basics, as others have said, being diligent, ruling out any health issues, etc... If your dog is eliminating in the house (excluding health issues) is because either it isn't house broken or you are not doing your job. And I'm not saying that to be mean or rude - just pointing out that dogs don't have thumbs and can't open the door to let themselves out.

It is up to us to fairly train them by giving them every opportunity to succeed - not punishing them when we've blown it.

The only time my dog soiled in the house was when he was over a year old. One day I was crazy busy in the house (don't remember about what) and kinda noticed him going from the front door to the back door several times - but was too preoccupied with what ever it was I was dealing with. A bit later, I noticed he went upstairs but didn't come down. I went to check and there was a nice big pile of poo. I didn't say one word to him - not one word. I was sooo mad at myself for not catching him TRYING tell me. He wanted to get outside - I didn't let him. Shame on me.

 

[arabianequine]

When training my saint this year....I got her at 8 weeks. She did not get swats at that age nor was I real hard on her cause she was just a baby at that age. When she got to be 4-6 months old and I know she had just been outside and then comes in a pees right in front of me she got in trouble. Not so much where she had pee/poo smeared all over her nose/face but close enough to smell it and I said no and then put her outside again....I would stake her too is that an option? for 5 mins and then go get her....like a time out/outside. This only happened when I seen her do it and not an accident meaning she had an opportunity to just go in the proper place etc. Never was pooping in the house an issue with her she always knew and wanted to go out she would always from day one cry to go out if she had to poop. It was peeing that was the problem and sometimes her nose went in it. She did finally stop peeing during the day in the house and then last to stop was at night it seemed she could just not hold it all night....she got down to having just one accident a night she was not punished for these when found either and then it just stopped. She actually wakes us by crying, nudging us in the face, and/or barking since about 6-7 month old. The great thing for us is she always went pee on the plastic runners in our house. I know you got this dog at an older age and it will be hard to break this habit. The dog won't hate you or be so scared it won't come near you for the little punishment if any you give, just be reasonable about it if you do.

 

[arabianequine]

Quote:
THIS IS ABUSIVE, AND A HORRIBLE AND FILTHY THING TO DO TO ANY PUPPY!!!! IN addition there is HITTING???? NEVER DO THIS TO ANY PUPPY!!!

Steps to housetraining:

SUPERVISE and confine your puppy so that elimination inside the house is impossible or unlikely. IGNORE mistakes that you find after the fact. Go out with the puppy for ALL outdoor elimination. Each time the pup squats, name the behavior while it is happening. Do not name it UNTIL it happens. So while the pup is peeing or pooping, I stand nearby and say "go pee pee" or "go poop" while it's happening. Immediately when they finish give them a very tasty food reward. Save your BEST stuff for this. Leftover bits of table meat, strong smelling cheese, etc. After 14 days of naming the behavior, most puppies will eliminate on command. Continue rewards outdoors, going WITH the pup. Then you can go to rewarding her when she comes back in, with you observing from indoors.

PUNISHMENT for mistakes inside the house will not help ANY dog get housetrained. They get trained in SPITE of this, not because of it. Punishment will only teach the puppy to hide from you when they need to go.

4 months is still a BABY, no matter what sort of puppy it is. Elimination is a natural and pleasurable experience for a puppy. Puppies should be taught KINDLY how to earn rewards for outdoor pottying. Indoor mistakes are ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS the fault of the HUMAN, not the puppy..

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I disagree you have your opinion and I have mine. You can punish without being abusive. Be reasonable and have common sense. Not all people that punish are abusive. I think that is part of what is wrong with society no one seems to be able to know how to be reasonable so now it is consider abuse and no one does it. Like I said in my above post I don't do if for every accident in the house but when I feel it was warranted. My puppy absolutely adores me and she is a very good girl.

 

[Brindlebtch]

Quote:
Pat is giving good advice, here. (Not that anybody else, isn't - I haven't read the entire thread.

With my first dog I had a very very hard time learning what behavior meant she needed to go outside. It seemed like there was no warning at all. But after a while I learned if she dipped her head and started movin around in a certain way, it meant she needed to go. Please believe me, she does give you warning, you just don't understand what she is telling you.

It seemed the only way I could get her to eliminate in the morning before I needed to leave was to take her for a walk. By the time she was a year old we were walking a mile every morning, so she was ready to be crated when I had to go to work. I would come home at lunch and walk her a mile and then in the evening we would walk again. 3 miles a day. Gave her exercise and calmed her down a bit, helped her void outside. There is just no downside to taking your dog for long walks.

You can ask your parents to measure out a mile walk on the odometer of the car and take the route measured, so you make sure you are getting in enough distance.

What with 3 walks, crating and binding the dog to you, and using other suggestions from this thread, eliminating in the house should quickly disappear. Remember to praise praise praise when the dog eliminates outside.

 

[BeccaB00]

Quote:
Pat is giving good advice, here. (Not that anybody else, isn't - I haven't read the entire thread.

With my first dog I had a very very hard time learning what behavior meant she needed to go outside. It seemed like there was no warning at all. But after a while I learned if she dipped her head and started movin around in a certain way, it meant she needed to go. Please believe me, she does give you warning, you just don't understand what she is telling you.

It seemed the only way I could get her to eliminate in the morning before I needed to leave was to take her for a walk. By the time she was a year old we were walking a mile every morning, so she was ready to be crated when I had to go to work. I would come home at lunch and walk her a mile and then in the evening we would walk again. 3 miles a day. Gave her exercise and calmed her down a bit, helped her void outside. There is just no downside to taking your dog for long walks.

You can ask your parents to measure out a mile walk on the odometer of the car and take the route measured, so you make sure you are getting in enough distance.

What with 3 walks, crating and binding the dog to you, and using other suggestions from this thread, eliminating in the house should quickly disappear. Remember to praise praise praise when the dog eliminates outside.

Thanks so much

I'm trying to get a schedule going here.

 

[Brindlebtch]

Good luck with your dog!

I have found if you put a big effort in the first year, you will have a great companion for the next 15 years. That first year will set the tone for your relationship.