Preparing Your Flock & Coop for WINTER

iwiw60, yes! these plastic sheds seem almost to repel dirt and stuff. I think it is a Lifetime shed I was looking at before I started making the hoop shelters; they have double walled sides, don't they? They seem a great way to house some chickens. The large trash can hideaway I bought and modified is big enough to hold "2 96 gallon trash cans" - or maybe 10 large chickens for sleeping quarters. It is double walled with a sealed 1" dead air space all around, and where I cut for the windows, vents, and pop door, I had to re seal (I used flashing tape) the cuts to keep water out and from freezing. The chickens - and they are still only BABIES - made short work of all the foil tape they could reach, and I am once again casting about for some way to seal the pop door cut out. One thing about the plastic shelters: I don't think they "breathe" well - especially if they are small like mine - and good ventilation is essential. Even in this dry climate those deck boxes get humid overnight, and I'm thinking I should leave the lids cracked open. The greenhouse sheeting around the run seems like a well thought out solution to the wind and driving rain/snow problem. I went to school in K. Falls and can appreciate the cold winds and freezing temps. Your insights and posts help a lot. Thank you. Laurie in Berthoud
Hi Again!
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Yes, my LifeTime Shed is "double-walled"...and while it is still just a "shed" I have already noticed a difference in the temp outside vs. the temp inside now that the cold air has started here. Last night it went down to 29 degrees, but the temp thingie on my webcam in the coop was registering 40!!! Woot!!! I think the girls' own body heat and breathing kept the temp up somewhat. Mind you, I'm sure that when we get hit with the really cold weather that will change, but I think that even when we get our "zero" nights it will still be around 10 degrees above zero.

Regarding your window cutouts that you made on your shed. Here's what I did, as I also did a "cutout" thing for a small playhouse-sized window. After I made the cutout I installed the window, screwing it into place. Then on the OUTSIDE only I put the silicone goop stuff...nothing on the inside. If you can, do this and forget the inside of the window cutout because a little air won't hurt a thing.

I'm confused when you said ... "...and I am once again casting about for some way to seal the pop door cut out." Elaborate, please....I can maybe help you on that and show you some pics of what I copied and did.

CYA!!
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First winter for us in Alaska. Rhode Island Red mixes, 3 hens one rooster. The coop was a barn for a miniature horse that we converted, very well insulated (5'X7'). We can get well below zero for weeks. I bought a radiant panel heater after reading some reviews. Anyone have experience with those? I attempted to attach a picture of our set up with enclosed run.
After reading what everyone is posting, we will enclose the run with plastic before snow hits (we are getting close!)
 
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At what temp do I need to start taking steps like plastic and some sort of heat lamp for bantams? They have tin on two sides of there coop? Suppose to be raining windy and down to 40s at night Saturday but then suppose to warm back up? They have hay in there now but it's a large coop all it really helps with is there footing?
 
At what temp do I need to start taking steps like plastic and some sort of heat lamp for bantams? They have tin on two sides of there coop? Suppose to be raining windy and down to 40s at night Saturday but then suppose to warm back up? They have hay in there now but it's a large coop all it really helps with is there footing?
We don't know what part of the country you live in so to answer your questions is difficult if not impossible. Where do you live? Are you in snow country?

As a general rule of thumb if temps are down around zero to +10 or so you should wrap their run in plastic sheeting to keep the wind and rain/snow off of them, along with a roof over the run. As for heating their coop? I live in snow country and do not heat my coop...why? Because of this:


Heat Lamp Fire: 12 chicks and 8 hens were lost.

Chickens do not require "heat" to survive winter. What they do require is draft-free ventilation. Moisture/humidity is their worst enemy. Your birds can produce a lot of heat on their own between their bodies and breathing...if you see condensation on the window(s)/walls of your coop it needs to be corrected immediately.

Let us know where you hail from and we can help further...best of luck!!!
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We don't know what part of the country you live in so to answer your questions is difficult if not impossible. Where do you live? Are you in snow country? As a general rule of thumb if temps are down around zero to +10 or so you should wrap their run in plastic sheeting to keep the wind and rain/snow off of them, along with a roof over the run. As for heating their coop? I live in snow country and do not heat my coop...why? Because of this: [COLOR=B22222]Heat Lamp Fire: 12 chicks and 8 hens were lost.[/COLOR] Chickens do not require "heat" to survive winter. What they do require is draft-free ventilation. Moisture/humidity is their worst enemy. Your birds can produce a lot of heat on their own between their bodies and breathing...if you see condensation on the window(s)/walls of your coop it needs to be corrected immediately. Let us know where you hail from and we can help further...best of luck!!! :frow
georgia! The most humid hot state around... Lol
 
I just knew bantams were less cold hardy and they have two sizes and tin roof with over hang used to be and old calving shelter... So they are dry and draft free from two sides it's been in the 70-80 then suppose to drop to 60 and 40 at night I just didn't know at what temp they needed to take any other measures for little guys? Also there is an area at top that is open I will not cover for ventilation... It's about 2 ft opening and there roosts are below it...Thank u I appreciate all the info :)
 
sammy7100, your chooks will probably hold up better than you. Let us know how the Lexan works out; I've worked with it before - in terrariums - and found it very prone to cracking. Don't think it would hold up here in Berthoud on the windward side of a shelter, and I'm thinking I need SOMETHING in the way of a wind and snow break, though, so my birds will be more comfortable outside if that's where they want to be. Will read on.

How thin of sheets are you using? Lexan/Plexi get used exclusively in really large enclosures because it doesn't crack. - If you're using the 3/32" window glass replacement stuff, it really needs to be kept from flexing - it's just too thin.
 
Lexan/Plexi get used exclusively in really large enclosures because it doesn't crack. - If you're using the 3/32" window glass replacement stuff, it really needs to be kept from flexing - it's just too thin.


It cracks quite readily when drilled and those holes are put under stress or movement as they are when they are used as a holding point, flame polishing the holes helps but it will not prevent the propagation of cracks... This is why it's generally 'pinched' along the edge or cemented to another piece in large enclosures, rarely if ever will you see holes drilled and used to mount it as it will cause premature failure...

Personally I wouldn't bother with plexi or lexan unless it's a real small area, it's just too costly vs the alternatives for a simple wind break...
 
georgia! The most humid hot state around... Lol
While you do get the occasional cold snaps I wouldn't heat your coop at all. If you do get winds blowing into your run you might wrap one or two sides of it to keep them out of direct drafts...best of luck to you!!
 
While you do get the occasional cold snaps I wouldn't heat your coop at all. If you do get winds blowing into your run you might wrap one or two sides of it to keep them out of direct drafts...best of luck to you!!
Thank u! Good to know :)
 

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