- Thread starter
- #21
problems at the end
- Thread starter pokey
- Start date
Quote:
Nope.
Nope.
- Thread starter
- #23
Quote:
So is there a link on how to calibrated a digital?
You do it the same way as any other hygrometer. 1/2 cup salt, 1/4 cup water in a mug seal the mug and the hygrometer in a baggie for 12 hours. It should read 75%, and you adjust from there.
Do I actually adjust it or it now reads correctly?
So is there a link on how to calibrated a digital?
You do it the same way as any other hygrometer. 1/2 cup salt, 1/4 cup water in a mug seal the mug and the hygrometer in a baggie for 12 hours. It should read 75%, and you adjust from there.
Do I actually adjust it or it now reads correctly?
Quote:
You do it the same way as any other hygrometer. 1/2 cup salt, 1/4 cup water in a mug seal the mug and the hygrometer in a baggie for 12 hours. It should read 75%, and you adjust from there.
Do I actually adjust it or it now reads correctly?
You don't have to do anything to it, if it reads 60%, then that means it is 15% too low, or when it's in the bator and it SAYS 40%, it is actually 25%.
You do it the same way as any other hygrometer. 1/2 cup salt, 1/4 cup water in a mug seal the mug and the hygrometer in a baggie for 12 hours. It should read 75%, and you adjust from there.
Do I actually adjust it or it now reads correctly?
You don't have to do anything to it, if it reads 60%, then that means it is 15% too low, or when it's in the bator and it SAYS 40%, it is actually 25%.
Quote:
Just starting out, am I understanding correctly that you aren't putting water in the trays at all until lockdown? Or is it that you don't fill both trays until lockdown?
Just starting out, am I understanding correctly that you aren't putting water in the trays at all until lockdown? Or is it that you don't fill both trays until lockdown?
Quote:
Just starting out, am I understanding correctly that you aren't putting water in the trays at all until lockdown? Or is it that you don't fill both trays until lockdown?
Everyone has their own opinion on that one. Personally, I have the humidity between 25-35% days 1-18, and then 40-50% during lockdown.
Just starting out, am I understanding correctly that you aren't putting water in the trays at all until lockdown? Or is it that you don't fill both trays until lockdown?
Everyone has their own opinion on that one. Personally, I have the humidity between 25-35% days 1-18, and then 40-50% during lockdown.
Im with Yappy. I add water every couple of days, especially now with it being so very dry. I do candle the eggs now and again, and even with just adding water now and again, the air space looks just right by day 18. If it were summertime, when the humidity is much higher, I wouldnt add water that often. I do have a hygrometer in there, but I dont trust it much; it never gets below 20%. When it gets to 20%, I add water.
I have ducks in the bator now and they need higher humidity, so mine is at 45-60% for them. Lockdown ought to be interesting.
BlacksheepCardigans
Songster
Quote:
Ventilation.
I know everybody jumped on this being humidity but pipping and then dying is textbook low oxygen.
I swear, if walmart made a $6 CO2 monitor we'd all quit talking about humidity - it's just because CO2 is so difficult/expensive to monitor that we think it doesn't matter. The big hatcheries monitor it much more closely than they do humidity, and they will sacrifice humidity at the end if they need to get more oxygen to the chicks. And every huge commercial incubator and hatcher runs at 50% humidity the whole time, so there's no reason to think that your 50% is too high. You can easily test it by weighing the eggs; that's the right way to monitor humidity anyway. If you're getting the right weight loss on the eggs than whatever humidity you are running is correct.
Remember, by the time they're hatching what you have in there is the equivalent of one chicken who is the weight of all the eggs. Picture, say, a full-grown bantam in your Genesis. And that chicken is working hard and panting with effort. Could he or she get enough air to survive with the holes you've got open?
Make sure your incubator is sterilized before you set the next hatch, just in case it's a bacterial infection that's making them weak. Keep track of the weight of a couple of test eggs to make sure they're losing it the way they should; change your humidity to keep them losing correctly and don't worry about whatever number it takes to get them there. There's no "right" or "wrong" humidity during the first 18 days, only whatever it takes to have them lose correctly. Then, on day 18, when you raise the humidity, do so with all the vents open. Do whatever you have to do to get the humidity up above 60 with the vents open - use sponges or cloths or socks or whatever. And see if you don't get a much better hatch.
Ventilation.
I know everybody jumped on this being humidity but pipping and then dying is textbook low oxygen.
I swear, if walmart made a $6 CO2 monitor we'd all quit talking about humidity - it's just because CO2 is so difficult/expensive to monitor that we think it doesn't matter. The big hatcheries monitor it much more closely than they do humidity, and they will sacrifice humidity at the end if they need to get more oxygen to the chicks. And every huge commercial incubator and hatcher runs at 50% humidity the whole time, so there's no reason to think that your 50% is too high. You can easily test it by weighing the eggs; that's the right way to monitor humidity anyway. If you're getting the right weight loss on the eggs than whatever humidity you are running is correct.
Remember, by the time they're hatching what you have in there is the equivalent of one chicken who is the weight of all the eggs. Picture, say, a full-grown bantam in your Genesis. And that chicken is working hard and panting with effort. Could he or she get enough air to survive with the holes you've got open?
Make sure your incubator is sterilized before you set the next hatch, just in case it's a bacterial infection that's making them weak. Keep track of the weight of a couple of test eggs to make sure they're losing it the way they should; change your humidity to keep them losing correctly and don't worry about whatever number it takes to get them there. There's no "right" or "wrong" humidity during the first 18 days, only whatever it takes to have them lose correctly. Then, on day 18, when you raise the humidity, do so with all the vents open. Do whatever you have to do to get the humidity up above 60 with the vents open - use sponges or cloths or socks or whatever. And see if you don't get a much better hatch.
No reason to believe its low oxygen. The OP said they opened the vent at hatch time so unless they are on a mountain top somewhere or have the incubator over full, O2 should not be an issue.
If they are dieing after piping the shell I don't think its to much humidity day 1-18 ether. Even though that's way higher than I like to keep mine. If they didnt manage to pip the shell them I would think the humidity was to high day 1-18.
I would actually think the humidity at hatch was to low if anything. 70% is fine if your gauge is accurate. Sounds like there is a chance of a genetic issue here to. Where are the eggs coming from?
If they are dieing after piping the shell I don't think its to much humidity day 1-18 ether. Even though that's way higher than I like to keep mine. If they didnt manage to pip the shell them I would think the humidity was to high day 1-18.
I would actually think the humidity at hatch was to low if anything. 70% is fine if your gauge is accurate. Sounds like there is a chance of a genetic issue here to. Where are the eggs coming from?
Similar threads
New posts New threads Active threads
-
Threads with more replies in the last 15 days
-
Checking-In On Peeps - Post Here To Say Hello!- Started by Nifty-Chicken
- Replies: 2K
-
-
-
-
Can I get some help from someone with careless neighbours who own dogs.- Started by RiDaGeckoGuy
- Replies: 103
-
