Problems integrating, how long to keep bully isolated?

[Parslee]

So I had two barnevelders, 4.5 years of age, one of them died suddenly three weeks ago, leaving one on her own. I went out and got four new ladies, 3 bantams and a LF Polish. On the advice of everything I've read plus the guy at the poultry store, I just added the new 4 in with the Barnie straight away (small space, don't have anywhere to quarantine).

The barnie not surprisingly chased them around a bit, but while the 3 bantams ran away, the Polish seemed to be in shock from the journey, and just sat there. The barnie very quickly noticed this and began to really go at the poor thing, drawing blood on her head, so I had to separate them before she killed it.

I built a temporary run inside the walk-in-run, with a second coop for the barnie, so they are in the same space but she can't get to them. The Polish recovered from the shock by the following day (genuinely thought we might lose her overnight), and the four new ones get on fine, but whenever the Polish gets close to the dividing wire, the barnie is still diving over and trying to peck at her, and stalks up and down by her - she's not bothered by the other three. I am going to extend the run a bit and put in a proper divider, but is it possible that the barnie will eventually calm down so I can integrate them properly? She's just so aggressive towards this totally inoffensive, and frankly daft Polish. Its only been a little over two weeks so far.

If I do have to keep them permanently separated, will the barnie be ok on her own - I know keeping one on their own isn't recommended, but I'm not sure if this counts as on her own as there are chickens just the other side of the chicken wire!

 

[DobieLover]

It's never a good idea to introduce just one Polish or one Silkie into a flock of "normal" birds. They look so different that they are often aggressively pecked and injured. And to make matters worse, their crests seriously impede their vision so they can't react in time with evasive maneuvers. I would either rehome her to a flock with other Polish or enlarge your setup to accommodate more birds and get 2 more Polish for her, combine them first and let them settle in and then combine the three of them in with the rest of the flock.

 

[Parslee]

It's never a good idea to introduce just one Polish or one Silkie into a flock of "normal" birds. They look so different that they are often aggressively pecked and injured. And to make matters worse, their crests seriously impede their vision so they can't react in time with evasive maneuvers. I would either rehome her to a flock with other Polish or enlarge your setup to accommodate more birds and get 2 more Polish for her, combine them first and let them settle in and then combine the three of them in with the rest of the flock.

Thanks for the reply. The Polish gets on fine with the bantams (pekin, faverolles and sablepoot), there are no issues with those four at all. Its just my old Barnevelder who is causing the problems. The little sablepoot likes to snuggle with the Polish, they are very sweet, and my young daughter would be devastated if we rehomed her - she chose the Polish. I can keep the barnie separated permanently by dividing the extended run, just hoping I don't have to!

 

[aart]

I am going to extend the run a bit and put in a proper divider, but is it possible that the barnie will eventually calm down so I can integrate them properly?

Separating them by wire wall is the place to have started in the first place.

Here's some tips about.....
Integration Basics:
It's all about territory and resources(space/food/water).
Existing birds will almost always attack new ones to defend their resources.
Understanding chicken behaviors is essential to integrating new birds into your flock.

Confine new birds within sight but physically segregated from older/existing birds for several weeks, so they can see and get used to each other but not physically interact.

In adjacent runs, spread scratch grains along the dividing mesh, best if mesh is just big enough for birds to stick their head thru, so they get used to eating together.

The more space, the better. Birds will peck to establish dominance, the pecked bird needs space to get away. As long as there's no copious blood drawn and/or new bird is not trapped/pinned down and beaten unmercilessly, let them work it out. Every time you interfere or remove new birds, they'll have to start the pecking order thing all over again.

Multiple feed/water stations. Dominance issues are most often carried out over sustenance, more stations lessens the frequency of that issue.

Places for the new birds to hide 'out of line of sight'(but not a dead end trap) and/or up and away from any bully birds. Roosts, pallets or boards leaned up against walls or up on concrete blocks, old chairs tables, branches, logs, stumps out in the run can really help. Lots of diversion and places to 'hide' instead of bare wide open run.

Good ideas for hiding places:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/a-cluttered-run.1323792/