Progress thread, coop design and building

[DouglasB]

Tamp the bottom of the hole with the post to compact it. The weight of the coop will not push the post down sitting on compacted dirt. Just not enough weight to worry about. Gravel in the bottom of the hole wont hurt, but its only gonna drain as good as the dirt below it.

 

[Rodrad]

4x4's are fine....with 2x6 rim joist connecting them.
You don't need any insulation in your climate.

 

[Rodrad]

Tamp the bottom of the hole with the post to compact it. The weight of the coop will not push the post down sitting on compacted dirt. Just not enough weight to worry about. Gravel in the bottom of the hole wont hurt, but its only gonna drain as good as the dirt below it.

Thank you Douglas,
That makes sense, there is not much weight to push the post down, especially since I will use 4x6 (I found one in the barn) instead of 4x4 which would be strong enough for a small coop like mine. I planned to tamp the bottom of the hole well.
I am thinking why some layer of gravel may help. You are right, the drainage will be as good as the ground bellow (or around) the gravel. Possibly it can provide a small “reservoir“ for water to drain while the post is not “sitting“ in the water!

 

[DouglasB]

Thank you Douglas,
That makes sense, there is not much weight to push the post down, especially since I will use 4x6 (I found one in the barn) instead of 4x4 which would be strong enough for a small coop like mine. I planned to tamp the bottom of the hole well.
I am thinking why some layer of gravel may help. You are right, the drainage will be as good as the ground bellow (or around) the gravel. Possibly it can provide a small “reservoir“ for water to drain while the post is not “sitting“ in the water!

Yes but it can also create a place for water to seep in. Ground water will seek the path of least resistance, ie the gravel. If it seeps in faster than the ground will absorb it, the post will be in standing water much of the time.

 

[Rodrad]

Yes but it can also create a place for water to seep in. Ground water will seek the path of least resistance, ie the gravel. If it seeps in faster than the ground will absorb it, the post will be in standing water much of the time.

You have a good point.
It looks like a real geological land survey would need to be done in order to define if there is or is not a benefit of gravel in the bottom of the 40” hole at my site .
So, since I am not going to hire somebody to do that , it seems to me that it is not worth to find a source of pea size gravel, pay for it, whole it back in the truck and distribute proper small amout in each hole.

 

[DouglasB]

You have a good point.
It looks like a real geological land survey would need to be done in order to define if there is or is not a benefit of gravel in the bottom of the 40” hole at my site .
So, since I am not going to hire somebody to do that , it seems to me that it is not worth to find a source of pea size gravel, pay for it, whole it back in the truck and distribute proper small amout in each hole.

Your right. Tamp the bottom, put em in, pack around them tightly with a digging bar, good to go.. your post are pressure treated, right.

 

[Rodrad]

Your right. Tamp the bottom, put em in, pack around them tightly with a digging bar, good to go.. your post are pressure treated, right.

Thanks, yes treated, will do!

 

[Rodrad]

I am in the planning stage for the lumber I would need. For the floor and for the roof decking I am thinking to use 5/8” either plywood or OSB. The joists will be on 16” and the rafters at every 15”. On the top of the floor I will have a vuntil/linoleum. Interestingly, at Menards the price of 4x8 sheet is about the same ($27.77 for plywood and $28.37 for OSB).
I wonder which one could be better to use!

Any inputs/comments are greatly appreciated.

 

[aart]

($27.77 for plywood and $28.37 for OSB).
I wonder which one could be better to use!

Plywood.

the rafters at every 15”.

why not 16", to match roof sheathing?

 

[Rodrad]

Well, I have 5 ft span so 15” gives me even spaced 5 rafters (plus two fly rafters ).

I only priced OSB because I thought it is cheaper. I wonder if there is any reason why somebody would choose OSB panel rather than plywood (if they are the same price).

thanks for your input.