Protecting a wood floor?

[Ghosty]

I just thompson's water sealed the floors, less stinky than blackjack and waaaay less cure time too.
I can just hose the floor a couple times a year if needed no problems.

That's what I did as well. I still need to seal the floor of the room I expanded into. I Thompsoned the original section floor to ceiling. I kind of like the bare wood bottom.

 

[TwoShepherds]

I put my Large EZ coop on 8" cement blocks. . I leveled the ground and the blocks. I used 3 blocks on each end. View attachment 1746658
It went through winter here without movement.
Your coop is lower, maybe 12" blocks?
By the way, the Large Over EZ coop inside floor space is 6' x 3' 9". Not including nest boxes. 22.5 square feet. View attachment 1746649. View attachment 1746678. I've got 7 Barred Rocks in it. GC

How do you like it so far? The Large Over EZ coop was on the top of my list until the wise folks on this forum let me know that it wouldn't hold as many chickens as they claim. Anyway, I didn't see it in person, but I thought it looked sturdy and easy to clean from the online videos. I liked the tractor options too. Did you get one of their runs also?

 

[TwoShepherds]

That price is not outrageous at all. I'm in Canada and just almost twice that, for a Mennonite made coop! I added in delivery and insulation and another window. So, given the exchange between our dollars; roughly the same or more. I am usually a make do with old stuff, recycle kinda gal; but I have needed a larger, safer coop for 20 years! I shopped around quite a bit and found nothing this well made, using real wood as opposed to toxic glued press board products.

Do you have chickens in yours yet? How's it working out? It certainly looks more professional than anything I could put together with the time and resources I have right now.

 

[GC-Raptor]

How do you like it so far? The Large Over EZ coop was on the top of my list until the wise folks on this forum let me know that it wouldn't hold as many chickens as they claim. Anyway, I didn't see it in person, but I thought it looked sturdy and easy to clean from the online videos. I liked the tractor options too. Did you get one of their runs also?

Yeah, it is sturdy and well built.
I wouldn't put more chickens in there, than I have now.
No I didn't get one of their runs.
I put mine inside a covered 10' x 10' dog kennel. I put it on 8" cement blocks so they have all 100 square feet and places to hide. .
It's easy to clean and has a resin coated floor and a insulated metal roof.
I would buy another. GC

 

[TwoShepherds]

Yeah, it is sturdy and well built.
I wouldn't put more chickens in there, than I have now.
No I didn't get one of their runs.
I put mine inside a covered 10' x 10' dog kennel. I put it on 8" cement blocks so they have all 100 square feet and places to hide. View attachment 1747660.
It's easy to clean and has a resin coated floor and a insulated metal roof.
I would buy another. GC

Looks good! Thanks for the photos. I was thinking about using the back and corner of our existing fence to make a run.

 

[equustears]

Hi! I use a tarp on the floor , cover it with diatemateous earth and then
Deep bed with shavings. When I change out the coop bedding I simply fold over the tarp and take it out . Replace and start again. Work great for me !

 

[TwoShepherds]

Hi! I use a tarp on the floor , cover it with diatemateous earth and then
Deep bed with shavings. When I change out the coop bedding I simply fold over the tarp and take it out . Replace and start again. Work great for me !

The other day I was reading a thread about someone who does that -- maybe it was one of yours. I'm new to the forum and still learning usernames. That seems like a good idea to me. Do you have to tack down the corners or does it stay in place because there is a lot of bedding to hold it down?

 

[TCFarm]

Do you have chickens in yours yet? How's it working out? It certainly looks more professional than anything I could put together with the time and resources I have right now.

No, TwoShepherds. I plan to move some in once I have it all finished...just had it delivered last Thursday, and it hasn't dried up and been warm enough yet for step 1 (clear coat wood treatment). My current flock are living in an old tool shed/pigeon coop that my husband built 20 years ago. [It's still fine and the 'overflow' will continue to live there. But I wanted a fresh start for breeding my favourite heritage chickens, with more space, and a safer attached run.] I have Chanteclers
I priced out materials, and even if I was an experienced carpenter; I could not have done this well! And definitely not if i had been buying lumber them paying labour for the build!

 

[TwoShepherds]

No, TwoShepherds. I plan to move some in once I have it all finished...just had it delivered last Thursday, and it hasn't dried up and been warm enough yet for step 1 (clear coat wood treatment). My current flock are living in an old tool shed/pigeon coop that my husband built 20 years ago. [It's still fine and the 'overflow' will continue to live there. But I wanted a fresh start for breeding my favourite heritage chickens, with more space, and a safer attached run.] I have Chanteclers
I priced out materials, and even if I was an experienced carpenter; I could not have done this well! And definitely not if i had been buying lumber them paying labour for the build!

Well, I did it. Paid a little more than I thought I was, and went through a different company, but it's done, and I feel pretty good about it. Should have it in about 5-7 weeks. You'll have to post pictures of your set-up when you're all done. I'd love to see it.

 

[Jan and the flock]

Depends on what kind of wood the floor is made of heavy white cedar planks..or pine..I'd just lay a nice coating of barn lime and add the bedding. About 4 to 6 inches of pine SHAVINGS not saw dust or wood chips.some use straw, but it's not very adsorbent...good dust free grass hay is ok, but it's not much different from straw when it comes to absorbancy....and it packs quickly. Both straw and hay needs to be turned at least every couple days....
The secret of a relatively sweet smelling coop is to keep the bedding dry and loose. If the floor is covered with vinyl flooring it will protect the cool floor and make it easy to clean...but it doesn't breathe...so turning and keeping the bedding dry is even more important. I have a re-purposed price of industrial rubber roofing. It's tacked down in a few places with washered roofing nails. And it continues up the walls for about 5 inches. I installed a drain through the floor. I can hose it down if I need to. I didn't have any planks available at The time I was building it, all I had to use was exterior grade chip board. I had to cover the floor or paint it. Chip board doesn't hold up very well on its own. This spring once I get it shoveled out, I'm going to try a coating of barn lime...or wood ashes....followed by a inch or two of plain clay cat litter and then 5-6 inches of dry white cedar \ pine sawmill shavings...the cat litter is the only thing different this spring...
I have been using pine cat litter pellets in the nest boxes...its seems to be working well. I find fewer soiled eggs. It appears to help keep the boxes dry it's easy to remove any poops or mud from the nests. It sucks up the moisture and makes a little clump. Sorry about the long answer. I got rolling and lost Tracy of time! Good luck!