Protecting a wood floor?

Could anyone tell me how complicated/involved it is to install an automatic coop door?--A brief look at the websites isn't giving me a lot of info on installation, and I have to decide quickly if I want the builder to add one to my coop. Do you have to cut a new chicken door and install complicated wiring, or can you just screw it over the existing door and use batteries/and or an extension cord to power it?
 
Depends on what kind of wood the floor is made of heavy white cedar planks..or pine..I'd just lay a nice coating of barn lime and add the bedding. About 4 to 6 inches of pine SHAVINGS not saw dust or wood chips.some use straw, but it's not very adsorbent...good dust free grass hay is ok, but it's not much different from straw when it comes to absorbancy....and it packs quickly. Both straw and hay needs to be turned at least every couple days....
The secret of a relatively sweet smelling coop is to keep the bedding dry and loose. If the floor is covered with vinyl flooring it will protect the cool floor and make it easy to clean...but it doesn't breathe...so turning and keeping the bedding dry is even more important. I have a re-purposed price of industrial rubber roofing. It's tacked down in a few places with washered roofing nails. And it continues up the walls for about 5 inches. I installed a drain through the floor. I can hose it down if I need to. I didn't have any planks available at The time I was building it, all I had to use was exterior grade chip board. I had to cover the floor or paint it. Chip board doesn't hold up very well on its own. This spring once I get it shoveled out, I'm going to try a coating of barn lime...or wood ashes....followed by a inch or two of plain clay cat litter and then 5-6 inches of dry white cedar \ pine sawmill shavings...the cat litter is the only thing different this spring...
I have been using pine cat litter pellets in the nest boxes...its seems to be working well. I find fewer soiled eggs. It appears to help keep the boxes dry it's easy to remove any poops or mud from the nests. It sucks up the moisture and makes a little clump. Sorry about the long answer. I got rolling and lost Tracy of time! Good luck!

Wow, so many good ideas here. I like the details! Thank you for sharing! I'm completely new to chickens. It is more helpful than you know to read about the different methods everyone is using to maintain their coops. I finally bit the bullet and got the coop, won't be here for another month or two, so I know I will be referencing the posts in this thread many times before the time comes to make any decisions about the flooring.
 
Could anyone tell me how complicated/involved it is to install an automatic coop door?--A brief look at the websites isn't giving me a lot of info on installation, and I have to decide quickly if I want the builder to add one to my coop. Do you have to cut a new chicken door and install complicated wiring, or can you just screw it over the existing door and use batteries/and or an extension cord to power it?
You might better off starting new thread on this for more responses.
Use part of your first sentence at at thread title.
Each door has a different opening needed.
I don't think they are that hard to install, if you're handy at all might want to wait so you can shop for the door best for you.
 
Could anyone tell me how complicated/involved it is to install an automatic coop door?--A brief look at the websites isn't giving me a lot of info on installation, and I have to decide quickly if I want the builder to add one to my coop. Do you have to cut a new chicken door and install complicated wiring, or can you just screw it over the existing door and use batteries/and or an extension cord to power it?
I researched for quite some time before deciding on which to get This is my pop door ,, and I am TOTALLY SATISFIED WITH IT.
IMG_20170511_123637012.jpg

About 6 screws hold it in place. 10 minute installation on a flat surface. $5 battery lasts over one year. It is raccoon proof with the gear driven mechanism. The pop doors from the UK are questionable in respect to raccoon proof, since there are no raccoons in Europe. Had this one in continuous operation for 2 years with no problems:thumbsup
Check out their website for yourself. Ador1. I am NOT A SPOKESPERSON FOR THIS COMPANY, JUST A VERY SATISFIED CUSTOMER:old
https://adorstore.com/products/ador1-automatic-chicken-door

I know we in the North American Continent have to deal with this one.
coon.jpg
 
I researched for quite some time before deciding on which to get This is my pop door ,, and I am TOTALLY SATISFIED WITH IT. View attachment 1751919
About 6 screws hold it in place. 10 minute installation on a flat surface. $5 battery lasts over one year. It is raccoon proof with the gear driven mechanism. The pop doors from the UK are questionable in respect to raccoon proof, since there are no raccoons in Europe. Had this one in continuous operation for 2 years with no problems:thumbsup
Check out their website for yourself. Ador1. I am NOT A SPOKESPERSON FOR THIS COMPANY, JUST A VERY SATISFIED CUSTOMER:old
https://adorstore.com/products/ador1-automatic-chicken-door

I know we in the North American Continent have to deal with this one.
View attachment 1751940

Thanks! I'm going to look at the website you shared with me now. After some light sleuthing on the brand the coop company is using, I'm leaning toward installing my own door. I'd rather have a functional door than a pretty door that only works a few months. But, I think I can make it look okay.
 
Thanks! I'm going to look at the website you shared with me now. After some light sleuthing on the brand the coop company is using, I'm leaning toward installing my own door. I'd rather have a functional door than a pretty door that only works a few months. But, I think I can make it look okay.
It can also be installed on the inside, and you would only have a framed out opening on the exterior. In that case you would need to get the remote eye which costs about $17, and install it on the exterior, and run wires to unit.
 
I considered epoxy, but was concerned it would crack when the flooring flexed. We used the Black Jack stuff in two coops, going up the wall 1 ft and have been happy with it. It is hard to mix - a drill driven paddle mixer was essential for us. It can take a while to dry fully, but after a few days it was usable. Applied two coats. Lots of people are happy with linoleum (vinyl flooring). Vinyl flooring did not work for me. It curled up so needs to be tacked down better than I did. I had bought cheap vinyl flooring, and it started coming apart within a few months. Maybe the people who like it bought better flooring than I did...
 
Hi, how did you apply the Blackjack #57? I 've applied 1 coat to floor and up the wall approximately a foot and a half with a 5 inch brush and I thought my arms were going to call off, not kidding. My coop is 10 x 12, brand new and I want to protect the floor and make it easier to clean. Thanks.
 
Hi, how did you apply the Blackjack #57? I 've applied 1 coat to floor and up the wall approximately a foot and a half with a 5 inch brush and I thought my arms were going to call off, not kidding. My coop is 10 x 12, brand new and I want to protect the floor and make it easier to clean. Thanks.

I didn't find it too difficult to apply once I kicked my hubby out of the coop and just did it myself. :lol: First coat took too long, we were trying to be super neat about it and getting in each other's way when it really just needs to be slapped on with a big brush and then pushed into corners/crevices as needed. I used a masonry brush for main application since they're so big that it applies a lot of product at once, and a smaller brush (3" maybe?) to get it into tighter corners or spaces. Coat #1 took over 2 hours with 2 people. Coat #2 I did solo, took maybe 1 hr 15 min on a 6x10 coop.

At least once you get it done, it's done, and so far I haven't had to do any maintenance with mine. Just let it cure and apply bedding on top.
 

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