quick advise on incubator set-up

[rosco]

Quote:
Hey, THanks. i was just thinking of that.

where is the temp/heat sensor on this "water heater thermostat?" the bottom has an aluminum plate on the back. and the back is facing the bulb.

i'd take it off an examine it, but i've got it wired down the hardware cloth (1/4" wire mesh).

the temp is stabilizing. BUT, i'm more worried about damaging the thermostat. ~2" away from the heat source is the rule i followed ............

i'm thinking the same thing

 

[Daidohead]

This is what I came up with for mine.

Steady as a rock

 

[Daidohead]

W/h thermostats pick up from the rear, they would be up against a tank.

 

[Penturner]

You want the metal back of the thermostat facing the heat. leaving the bulb exposed to the bulb will cause it to go on and off faster but the incubator will still heat up to the temperature the thermostat is adjusted to. the faster on off helps keep the temperature more stable but i also think it is harder on the thermostat. either way it will work.

 

[rebelcowboysnb]

Quote:
A water heater thermostat cycles to slow if you only have it reacting to the air temp. You set the thermostat to come on at around 99*F but it would kick off at almost 108*F air temp. By putting the thermostat close to the light it gets hit by Light energy(radiant heat). That makes the thermostat get to its kick off temp very fast.The air in the incubator is only about 101*F by then. Then when the thermostat kicks the light off the thermostat cools back to air temp. When the air temp drops back to 99* it starts again. Your using radiant heat to make a thermostat that has 8 or 9* differential act like a thermostat that has a 2* differential.

 

[rosco]

Quote:
A water heater thermostat cycles to slow if you only have it reacting to the air temp. You set the thermostat to come on at around 99*F but it would kick off at almost 108*F air temp. By putting the thermostat close to the light it gets hit by Light energy(radiant heat). That makes the thermostat get to its kick off temp very fast.The air in the incubator is only about 101*F by then. Then when the thermostat kicks the light off the thermostat cools back to air temp. When the air temp drops back to 99* it starts again. Your using radiant heat to make a thermostat that has 8 or 9* differential act like a thermostat that has a 2* differential.

The back side of my water heater thermostat is 2"-3" off the 60W bulb.

it is cycling on/off about 3 times a minute, average. sometimes four. it is quite distracting having this in our computer room.

am i okay? will the bulb burn out quickly? is the thermostat likely to fail. i believe this is how i had it set up the first hatch.

The RH and Temp are holding where i want them.

 

[rebelcowboysnb]

AS for egg placemen, every way you said will work but with your setup I would put them big end up in the egg trays. That should have the best tilt action from your turner. For humidity, the bowl size is the biggest thing but you can adjust humidity some by moving the bowl closer to the light and/or the fan. Bowl size an placement should have no effect on incubator temp. Just remember when you add water to use water at about 100*F.

You could place a board in there to keep the light from hitting the eggs directly.


Yes using a hot water thermostat in a incubator will make it fail sooner than it would on a water heater. Not because of more or less heat but because it will cycle way more. A hot water heater will kick off an on about 100 times a day. An incubator will kick on an off about that many time an hour. My water heater has been going strong for 10 years now. Whats that, something like 365,000 cycles? So in a incubator it should last something like 3,650 hours. Thats a little over 152 days. Thats 7 incubations before you are getting near the life of the thermostat. I bet in reality it will last way past that because I plan to get another 10 years out of my water heater.

Bulb failure is the biggest issue.... 2would be best.

 

[Daidohead]

Quote:
A water heater thermostat cycles to slow if you only have it reacting to the air temp. You set the thermostat to come on at around 99*F but it would kick off at almost 108*F air temp. By putting the thermostat close to the light it gets hit by Light energy(radiant heat). That makes the thermostat get to its kick off temp very fast.The air in the incubator is only about 101*F by then. Then when the thermostat kicks the light off the thermostat cools back to air temp. When the air temp drops back to 99* it starts again. Your using radiant heat to make a thermostat that has 8 or 9* differential act like a thermostat that has a 2* differential.

Makes sense to me, and in most instances it works fine. I simply suggested that IF there was a temp problem that they consider trying a shield. My own personal experiance has shown me that a w/h thermostat, mounted away from a heat source will work to maintain a 2* temp swing without cycling on and off every 45 seconds.

 

[rosco]

Rebelcowboysnb -

I"ve a backup light socket and bulb in case of failure. I've thought to put two 40W bulbs with the fan in between them. the thermostat would still be riding on top of the wire mesh cage.

Thanks for other advice. it seems i'd decided to hatch eggs on their sides as that would more mimic nature but with this system i'll agree large end would be best.

- R

 

[rosco]

i've blocked the eggs from direct light using tin foil. So this doesn't impede distribution of heat tooo much i've left the bottom 1" open. i'll just have to wait and see what happens.

Please disregard the Temp and RH. i've been opening and closing it to trim the foil.