Race against time: Building an insulated coop before the arctic air arrives.

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Got the ceiling/loft floor in. Rough cut 1 x4 Aspen. No sag in the boards with 24 inch OC joist spacing. Next I will frame and screen the ceiling vent.

 

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So I know I said I was going to frame the vent but it can wait. I put the door in instead. It just seemed more important! Took three afternoons. It’s cold in the mornings now. I had this metal clad, foam insulated door in my shop with the plywood. I had to use a chisel to cut the hinge and door latch mortises, remanufacture an old wood door jamb frame and hang the door. Then I found a box of doorknob parts and put together a locking entrance knob.

If you are contemplating building a walk in coop think about finding a secondhand door and window(S). The cost of just one door and window could pay for all the lumber and plywood for a small to medium coop. I am so thrifty that I doubt I would build a coop if I actually had to buy a new door and window for it.
Now it is finally insulation time! YES! I just .love having fiberglass all over my skin driving me itchy and scratchy. I am not crazy about masks but in this case I will be wearing one.

 

[Rangergord]

Insulation fiberglass. I had one and a half bags of insulation on hand and only had to buy one new bag to finish the walls.

 

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Now we covered up the insulation with 10 mil woven poly vapour barrier., stapling it down and taping seams with Tuck tape.

 

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Then we put Reflectix reflective bubble insulation on the top half of the wall. We had this on hand already. We like the way it reflects the light which is in short supply in the north at this time of year. It is also supposed to be good for barns because it reflects infra red rays back towards the animals.

 

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Then we put 1/4 inch hardboard panelling on the lower half of the walls. A nice smooth surface that can be painted if we wish. We had it in the shop doing nothing, so now it’s bringing our new coop into service on time and under budget.