Raised vs ground level coop and cupolas

[Shoemacl]

Have you asked the builder if he can make his cupola operational? I think it is pretty simple to do. Possibly is would be only framing the hole in the roof. Even if it is also replacing side panels with louvers, it should be doable.

They make really wonderful ventilation. Well worth doing.

I definitely plan on asking. Hoping between that, the 4 functional windows and gable vents we’ll be ok

Birds can lay under there or if the get sick under there it can be a challenge to crawl under to get them out.

Where in this world are you?

Ah very good point. We are in Maryland

 

[Loving my girls]

I had a coop that was raised about a foot and it was a major pain. Hens would run under it when I wanted to get one, it was totally unmanageable so the grass would grow and it would get all poopy.
I did it to extend the run space but in hindsight I would have been better off extending the run.
I now have a ground level one and would never go back to a raised one.
Just my opinion

 

[RoyalChick]

Have you asked the builder if he can make his cupola operational? I think it is pretty simple to do. Possibly is would be only framing the hole in the roof. Even if it is also replacing side panels with louvers, it should be doable.

They make really wonderful ventilation. Well worth doing.

I have an operational cupola and it is great. Worth lining with both hardware cloth and bug screen to keep out yellow jackets and the like.

 

[RoyalChick]

I had a coop that was raised about a foot and it was a major pain. Hens would run under it when I wanted to get one, it was totally unmanageable so the grass would grow and it would get all poopy.
I did it to extend the run space but in hindsight I would have been better off extending the run.
I now have a ground level one and would never go back to a raised one.
Just my opinion

I too love the access of my full height walk-in coop. But mine get to be out in a large fenced area so space is not an issue.

 

[Krugerrand]

Google image search returns this:
https://blackbearshed.com/product/deluxe-combination-coop

 

[Seaslug]

You mention a 8'x16' space -- I would want to be able to walk within that space to clean and check on the birds. If you are concerned about rodents (and it is a legit concern), what about a concrete pad under the coop?

 

[RockvilleChickenLady]

Hi all, I am a chicken novice and plan to get our first chickens this spring. We have found a great coop builder in the Lancaster, PA area who offers many different styles. We are heavily leaning towards an 8X16 coop which has an indoor area offered either at ground level or raised (looks to be about 12-16" off the ground).

I prefer the look of the ground level one as it gives more head space, but we obviously have concerns about rodents getting in. The builder assured us that he's never had issues with predators getting into the ground level coop because it's build super tight and has a layer of "glass board FRP" floor on top of the structural floor. Is anyone familiar with this FRP material and is it in fact a good enough barrier against rodents if the coop is ground level?

Additionally, has anyone had any luck finding a good functional cupola that isn't outrageously expensive? The builder offers one, but it's cosmetic only. I think it could be a big benefit to have the extra ventilation with our Maryland summers.

Thanks in advance!!

Hi! I recently upgraded my coop to one made in Lancaster. Photos attached. Mine is 6 x 10. I love it. I got a ridge vent for ventilation, and I leave the little door from the coop part to the run part open all the time. I didn't see any that offered functional cupolas. I like the raised coop part so they have more ground/run under the coop. I can stand up in the middle of the upper coop part.
I put up heavy clear plastic panels on the 3 sides of the run when it has been super cold, rainy, or windy. There are still gaps at the top of the run so plenty of ventilation, but it blocks most of the drafts. I also put storm panels on the wire below the coop to block most of the drafts when I put up the plastic. I use deep litter. I really love this coop. I have it on a rectangular base of paving stones, not a pad, the center is just dirt. I'm happy to answer more questions.

 

[Love Donkeys]

We have free-range chickens, with a walk-in coop, and 1&1/2 foot to 2' off the ground. Being raised prevents possible flooding. We also have human entry doors that open inward. Inward doors make it harder for the birds to run out while you are walking in.

 

[Love Donkeys]

It appears in the photos that there is no insulation under the roofing. Without underlying insulation the metal roof on the coop will cause the interior to become very hot in the summer. Also, in the winter the roof metal will sweat with condensation.

By the way, I might have missed it, how much do these beautiful coops cost?

 

[paintedChix]

So... I will never understand why builders build such BEAUTIFUL coops, but do not offer functionality. Some will even fight you on doing/adding in that functionality - it adds time to the build, reducing (somewhat) their profit.

Things I would do -

1 - turn non-working cupola to a working one OR eliminate it to lower cost so can make other changes which will add back to cost.

2 - extend the 3 roof edges not attached directly to run. This allows soffit to be opened up for unseen ventilation. It also protects ventilation that may be added, up high, under the roof. Extend more than a foot (I'm not sure how much is needed) on nest box side so it protects the eggs & collector in bad weather (rain, snow, somewhat for wind).

3 - at least add a large ventilation area at the top of coop (full width - up to 3-4 boards depending on number of chickens) where the run joins the coop. The run will need to be roofed at least partially to protect that ventilated area. With a snow load you'd want at least partial run roof coverage - to encourage your girls to go outside.

4 - if you want the extra run space under neath, have it raised higher like Ted Brown's. Makes it easier to access that space.

5 - have a hinged wire door, big enough for your body to partially or fully fit under the raised coop. It could be hinged to raise up or to open out. Could even do a fully removable panel. This will allow you to reach eggs, sick or injured birds, change out feed and water if under the coop or clean out/add litter. Even to plant some plants if desired - helpful/liked by chickens & to deter pests/vermin. (https://www.backyardchickens.com/th...icken-run-a-mini-forest-for-chickens.1540569/).

6 - i would put this on some type of foundation, to protect the wood base.
Can be solid pavers, bricks, cinder block or poured cement to match width of base.

7 - instead of the FRP flooring, you could check into Black Jack 57 (i think). It is black. You paint it on the floor & up the walls - 1 - 2'. It protects the wood, i would think it helps in preventing pests & rodents, less slippery than the FRP. Possibly lower cost but not positive. Your builder may be able to do it, or you do it after coop delivered. (Article 'Black Jack Rubr-Coat #57, For Your Coop Floor.' https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/black-jack-rubr-coat-57-for-your-coop-floor.75145/)

I think that's all. I might come back and add some thoughts.

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Have you considered a Woods styled coop? Would your builder be able to do something like that?

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I, myself, prefer a "to the ground", walk in coop. I am older & this past year dealing w/ a broken/dislocated ankle & full leg length blood clot (blood clots not fun - mostly spent 6 months on blood thinner w/ leg raised above heart to be effective. Any bump causing bruising could have meant internal bleed out before EMS could arrive. 2024 was a NOT FUN, lost kinda year), having a raised coop would be difficult for me. Whether it was one with stairs or one you reach into/under for servicing... Stairs & getting down on hands/knees still a BIG issue.