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There's lots of worming info on BYC, and a lot of people do it differently. Usually what applies to other types of poultry also applies to Guineas. Certain wormers have different ways of delivery; you can give some types mixed into their water, some types can be mixed with feed, some types can be given orally with a needless syringe or eye dropper down the throat of each individual bird, some types are given by injection under the skin, and one type can even be applied topically. Some are one day dosages, some need to be repeated 3-5 days.
The very first time I worm a bird (young or old) I start with Wazine 17 (Piperazine) added to their water to knock down some of the worm load gently first (dosage directions are on the bottle for poultry, and it's a good idea to take away their water the night before and give them the wormer mixed into fresh water in the morning so they are thirsty and drink it). The initial worming is usually the only time I'll use Wazine, since it is not a broad spectrum wormer. So then in 10-14 days they get a 2nd worming with a more broad spectrum liquid wormer typically used for goats or cattle, (used off label) like Safeguard, Ivermectin or Valbazen. You can do a search for the dosages and ways of delivery, and decide what fits your flock and routine best. Since they are off label, I feel I really shouldn't be giving out the dosages, but others have, lol. Just do a search here on the BYC forums for worming, it will pull up a lot of links.
My young birds get wormed for the first time in the late Fall (as long as they are around 12-16 wks old), and after that are on the same schedule as the adults. For my adult birds I worm 2X a year, with 2 different wormers used 10-14 days apart, (tho some people use the same wormer 2X, 10-14 days apart, then rotate to a different type of wormer for the next worming). I worm in the Spring before they really start laying for me and then again in the Fall when they finally stop laying, that way I am not dealing with any withdrawal times and not throwing any eggs away. Sometimes it's not always possible to get the timing right tho. Some people worm according to weather, when the rainy season is and when it frosts, but my schedule with my flocks revolves around their egg production, since I incubate and also consume their eggs.
Depending on the wormload on your land/in your coops and pens you may need to worm more frequently, or you many not need to worm that often. Some don't worm at all, and some just collect poop samples from several birds in the flock and take it to a vet to have a fecal test done first (and fyi... the spin method is more accurate than the float method for fecals), then you can decide which wormer to use and the dosage as per the vet's advice. As with horse and goat worming schedules, it's best to rotate wormers, so there's no resistance built up.
Since sometimes worming meds can be a little hard on their systems, yogurt and/or probiotics given a few times after worming them can help the birds systems get back to normal a little quicker. Some feed pumkin before, during and after worming too... to bulk up the gut and give the wormer a chance to effect more worms. And some feed cayenne pepper and garlic to help keep down the wormload in between wormings (for help with preventative/maintenance use only, they have mot been proven to cure or rid a bird of a wormload problem).
