Raising Meat Rabbits

[Amy Foster]

yes but theres not much room to get away in a cage! males do not give up until you remove the doe...you will see when you begin breeding females can be resistant i agree but males normally make them submit not always but usually

 

[Bunnylady]

I have seen angry does do some pretty brutal things to bucks when they weren't interested - a buck cannot force a doe to "submit." If the doe won't lift, she won't, no matter how aggressive the buck gets.

 

[Amy Foster]

so all my does have just always wanted to i thought my male just made them give in interesting! i know i havent had one not get pregnant! that shows me i have selected good breeders and bred at good times for them to be receptive so thanks for the info bunnylady i love to hear others exp

 

[nayeli]

Bunnylady, since rabbits are your specialty what would you recommend as the best meat rabbit? I have heard conflicting things and storey's said that medium size rabbits can be better than the bigger new zealand or californian that are so popular. Thoughts?

 

[Bunnylady]

Years ago, I had a doe that always fought with the buck when I put her in his cage. Not to the point of drawing blood, but it sure didn't look friendly, I can tell you. I don't know if she just wanted to see how tough he was, or what, but I learned to wait her out, and see what she did when she stopped fighting. When she was ready to accept the buck, she did - but not a moment before. She was a great mother, but I only used her with an experienced buck. A doe like that could ruin an inexperienced buck.

 

[Amy Foster]

Yes good thinking!

 

[spangledcornish]

Bunnylady, since rabbits are your specialty what would you recommend as the best meat rabbit? I have heard conflicting things and storey's said that medium size rabbits can be better than the bigger new zealand or californian that are so popular. Thoughts?

I know I am not Bunny lady, but as I have stated before, we have been extremely happy with our crosses. one thing to keep in mind is your desired market weight and desired growth rate. For us our three way backcross, had yielded a fast growing rabbit which on the feed side of things is good for us and we can get a very meaty 4-5 pound dressed rabbit with very little waste.

On the mothering side the pure Californian has been our most frustrating, and or satin influenced crosses have been the best mothers. I have used newzealands on the paternal side, but have not kept any on the maternal side (no particular reason).

 

[Bunnylady]

Bunnylady, since rabbits are your specialty what would you recommend as the best meat rabbit? I have heard conflicting things and storey's said that medium size rabbits can be better than the bigger new zealand or californian that are so popular. Thoughts?

I'm curious - did Storey's really refer to the Californian as being a large breed? At 8 - 10 lbs, they are considered "medium sized;" some put the New Zealand (9 -12 lbs) in that group as well.

I don't believe there is a "best" rabbit breed, IMO, there is "best for you." Some people get perfectly good results with pedigreed purebreds, and if they are breeding for show, that's what they need to be breeding. If you are aiming at the commercial market, slaughterhouses usually pay more for white rabbits, and they are generally savvy enough to know a good meaty rabbit, whether it is purebred or a cross. Bad type is bad type, whatever color the coat may be.

A certain amount of temperament is inheritable; I have always held that a doe that came from a good mother is more likely to be a good mother herself, regardless of breed. I think having rabbits that are adapted to your conditions in also important, since weather extremes (particularly heat) can be devastating. I'm the last person to tell someone "you should do this," or "you mustn't do that," all I can give you is my own experience and observations.

 

[nayeli]

I believe he did. He referred to the Tan's as a medium breed and I believe they are 6 lbs? matured. He said they mature much quicker though and convert feed very effeceintly though so I was wondering your thoughts.
I have read great things about cross breeds then other people say you should keep purebreeding. I will try both but my only decision now is what to get. I was thinking a NZ buck a NZ doe and another breed doe. I haven't decided the other breed but I think I would prefer a colored rabbit with pretty fur. Then we can get good fur as well... but if I want fur should I get the buck and doe to be fur/meat breeds and keep a NZ doe.

 

[Bunnylady]

I believe he did. He referred to the Tan's as a medium breed and I believe they are 6 lbs? matured. He said they mature much quicker though and convert feed very effeceintly though so I was wondering your thoughts.

Curiouser and curiouser! Tans are 4-6 lbs. when mature, and they have the "full arch" body type. Those are slender, generally active animals; however quickly they might mature, you don't have a whole lot when they get there. Though I have to add that I knew a Netherland Dwarf breeder that ate his culls. They were, of course, small, so he wound up with pretty small "portions," but at least Dwarfs are compact in type so there should be a better dress-out ratio than you'd get from a full-arch animal. Obviously, a person breeding ND's is doing it for some reason other than just putting meat on the table, the same would apply to Tans.