Re-integration Frustration--Please Help!

[aart]

I could build a hoop style extension and make a small pop door in the existing run that could be opened for chicken access.

Was thinking the same thing!

On the end of my run the mesh is barely attached, maybe 5-6 wires bent around, pretty easy to bend them out to open end of run. Hope you can zoom in to see OK, hard to take pics of mesh.

 

[Jcat6419]

Was thinking the same thing!

On the end of my run the mesh is barely attached, maybe 5-6 wires bent around, pretty easy to bend them out to open end of run. Hope you can zoom in to see OK, hard to take pics of mesh.

Thanks for the pics, I can see them fine! Do you think I need the metal pieces supporting the wire "hoop" or with my rows of T posts only 5 ft apart, will the wire be rigid enough to maintain a curve? I could connect the "strips" by overlapping an inch or two and using zip ties, a lot of zip ties. If I do need support, maybe I could use PVC pipe? I don't really have the tools for bending metal conduit. If I'm only going in periodically to clean, I don't mind bending over a bit, I just don't want the roof drooping down a lot.

 

[aart]

Thanks for the pics, I can see them fine! Do you think I need the metal pieces supporting the wire "hoop" or with my rows of T posts only 5 ft apart, will the wire be rigid enough to maintain a curve? I could connect the "strips" by overlapping an inch or two and using zip ties, a lot of zip ties. If I do need support, maybe I could use PVC pipe? I don't really have the tools for bending metal conduit. If I'm only going in periodically to clean, I don't mind bending over a bit, I just don't want the roof drooping down a lot.

Yep, the overlap will stiffen the curve,
so should work without the rafters I have for my 8' wide run.
You'll want to form the curve high enough to support itself,
you'll have to play with it to see where that is.
I would start with 4 posts and play with the overlap distance and curve height before pounding more posts in.
My overlap is 4", you might want to go for more...
...the more overlap the stronger it will be, but will 'eat up' material.
As long as you don't get a ton of snow it should stay up fine.
Could always stick a couple of 2x2's between ground and arch to hold it up,
I have to do that in parts of mine if we get heavy snow overnight.

 

[Jcat6419]

Could always stick a couple of 2x2's between ground and arch to hold it up,
I have to do that in parts of mine if we get heavy snow overnight.

Got it, thanks!
I could use extra T posts and zip tie longer 2x2s to them to hold it up if needed. My neighbors will hate me but my chickens will be happy!

 

[aart]

I could use extra T posts and zip tie longer 2x2s to them to hold it up if needed

Pretty easy to shove an 8' 2x2 between the ground and run roof.....
...at an angle to get it the right height.

Do you have the post clips?
Remember to put posts in with the flat sides(with nubs) to the outside of run.
Do you have a post hammer?
Good to use a post level too.

 

[Jcat6419]

Pretty easy to shove an 8' 2x2 between the ground and run roof.....
...at an angle to get it the right height.

Do you have the post clips?
Remember to put posts in with the flat sides(with nubs) to the outside of run.
Do you have a post hammer?
Good to use a post level too.

The less post pounding I do, the better for my poor shoulders so I’ll try just jamming the 2x2 in there good! I do have the post clips but have never used them before so thanks for the tip! I have a post hammer and a small level about 1 ft in length that will have to work. Somewhere along the way I must’ve given my 4 ft long level away. I’ll have to post a picture when I get done. If it would only stop raining and dry up. But I guess when the ground is wet, the post pounding will go easier. Thanks

 

[aart]

Get one of these, especially if you are working alone.
Rubber bands around the post,
might have to shorten band as they are meant for 4x4 posts,
bubbles will go goofy but will settle back.
Was huge help for me.

Doesn't take much to wedge the 2x2 under there.
Cut a slot in the end to help hold it in place on the wire.

Post clips are supposed to be bent around like this:

But this works too, I put up 500' of fence before I learned to bend them haha!
Most held just fine for 18 years, and they're easier to get back off :

 

[Jcat6419]

Get one of these, especially if you are working alone.

Thank you for the excellent advice and pics, much appreciated!! I'll definitely buy that level--I love buying new tools!

 

[angelofwoodford]

I had a similar problem after one of my chickies was poorly and stayed at my house for 4 weeks untill I got her better. The boss chicken who was her best friend previoulsy nearly killed her when I took her back which surprised me. So what I did was let them wander around the field together for a few hours supervised (me there) so there was enough space between them not to fight or to get away from each other if there was an attack. At night I would bring her home to sleep in my house and then do the same thing the next day. I did this for about 7 days, letting them get used to each other again, and having a stick ready to scare off the boss when she got too aggressive.
Finally, one evening I left her in bed with the others and the next day all was fine. The boss had calmed down and after about another week they were best friends again.
Re-introduction slowly is the key. You can split your pen and put one hen in one side and the others in the other side so that they can see each other and get used to each other again but not do any harm to each other. I do this with new chickens, sometimes for two weeks or until the agression has gone and they become interested in each other and have worked each other out.
Dont let them just fight as one will win and do damage to the other. It seems to me that once they work each other out and realise their positions again they calm down but this can take time so be patient and you wont have any blood spilled!