You CAN retexture a popcorn ceiling - its just a little timeconsuming.
1. You need to scrape all the popcorn off as best as you can.
2. You need to be able to pull drywall compound and be a VERY GOOD FINISHER.
If you cant pull drywall mud *thin it out a little to keep it easy to use* (use this vs. plaster, plaster is wayyy too hard to work with) then forget it - rip it down and start over with new drywall. Pulling corners is the hardest thing to do with existing walls and/or new - so if you dont know how to pull and float - PAY someone to do it.
3. Have GOOD KNIVES to pull with - and dont skimp on cheap drywall mud.
We're remodeling our house and just got done doing our daughters room (total gut) from electrical to drywall - the entire thing we did ourselves. I've discovered that I hate mudding and pulling drywall
but I'm very good at it much to my dismay
but my DH's joy as he hates pulling it as well.
As for the floor - make sure you buy quality barrier (foam) underlayment if you're going to do a floating engineered hardwood and a quality floor as well. Are you certain you want a floating vs. glued? Look and make sure you know how to install each properly and leave room *biggest mistake people make* on all edges for expansion so it can "float". If you do full hardwood vs. engineered - leave room on edges so it can expand - (with either product actually) if you dont, it will buckle.
Kitchens: Make sure you have a very good square, level, and if youre doing cabinets - use a backer board. One thing I'd recommend is to use either plywood or heavy cardboard to lay out your base cabinets and appliances (make stencils) so you can see exactly how you want your kitchen to lay out and how it will be. You'll have exact measurements that way and can adjust as needed. No "surprises" after the fact.
Tile: Make sure you look at what it requires - dont assume it uses mastic when it says another adhesive. Many people make this mistake and its very costly.
Good luck!
1. You need to scrape all the popcorn off as best as you can.
2. You need to be able to pull drywall compound and be a VERY GOOD FINISHER.
If you cant pull drywall mud *thin it out a little to keep it easy to use* (use this vs. plaster, plaster is wayyy too hard to work with) then forget it - rip it down and start over with new drywall. Pulling corners is the hardest thing to do with existing walls and/or new - so if you dont know how to pull and float - PAY someone to do it.
3. Have GOOD KNIVES to pull with - and dont skimp on cheap drywall mud.
We're remodeling our house and just got done doing our daughters room (total gut) from electrical to drywall - the entire thing we did ourselves. I've discovered that I hate mudding and pulling drywall
As for the floor - make sure you buy quality barrier (foam) underlayment if you're going to do a floating engineered hardwood and a quality floor as well. Are you certain you want a floating vs. glued? Look and make sure you know how to install each properly and leave room *biggest mistake people make* on all edges for expansion so it can "float". If you do full hardwood vs. engineered - leave room on edges so it can expand - (with either product actually) if you dont, it will buckle.
Kitchens: Make sure you have a very good square, level, and if youre doing cabinets - use a backer board. One thing I'd recommend is to use either plywood or heavy cardboard to lay out your base cabinets and appliances (make stencils) so you can see exactly how you want your kitchen to lay out and how it will be. You'll have exact measurements that way and can adjust as needed. No "surprises" after the fact.
Tile: Make sure you look at what it requires - dont assume it uses mastic when it says another adhesive. Many people make this mistake and its very costly.
Good luck!
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