Repeated deadly attacks in one of 3 pens--suspect raccoon

If it is coons they will keep coming back . They run the perimeter to find a way in . The best way is to trap them with a foot trap or conibear , or if you don't want to hurt them use a live trap .
I'm going to put my 2 cents' worth here. Foot hold traps are fine, but you run a risk of catching an unintended target - your cat or dog, or a neighbor's pet for example. I'd suggest using a live trap, then killing it. That's the ONLY reason for a live trap - so if you catch your pet, you can turn it loose unharmed. NOT for relocating a predator...
Thanks for the feedback.
I just took some pics. That process in itself was very educational. It showed me where I need to place stronger wire. That's not even counting the idea of hot wire.





The pics are 1) the original hardware cloth that I see is way too wide barred. 2) Much stronger metal over the hardware cloth (from a disasembled shelf). 3) the level I resorted to once the 2nd metal pieces didn't do it.
Question: will they/can they simply climb up a ways and enter by bending the bars again? If that's the case I need the hot wire and/or unbendable metal everywhere and/or I need to just give up on that pen and build another.
What would you do?
Yes, they can and they will - so you need to put up several strands of hotwire. Start out about 4" off the ground, then put one another 4-6", and so on with 4 or 5 strands. You want the first one low enough that they can't crawl under it, then the next ones close enough together to keep them from squeezing between, and the top one high enough that they can't just reach up over it and climb up.
 
I agree with you about live traps . Some people go over board about killing animals so I put a nice alternative. No neighbors pets around me and my dogs are kept away . So anything in my foot or body grip trap is a chicken predator. I get fox , coons and fisher where I am
 
I'm going to put my 2 cents' worth here. Foot hold traps are fine, but you run a risk of catching an unintended target - your cat or dog, or a neighbor's pet for example. I'd suggest using a live trap, then killing it. That's the ONLY reason for a live trap - so if you catch your pet, you can turn it loose unharmed. NOT for relocating a predator...
Yes, they can and they will - so you need to put up several strands of hotwire. Start out about 4" off the ground, then put one another 4-6", and so on with 4 or 5 strands. You want the first one low enough that they can't crawl under it, then the next ones close enough together to keep them from squeezing between, and the top one high enough that they can't just reach up over it and climb up.

Good point and it registered!
I have cats that live mostly outside. I'd be crushed if I accidentally hurt them trying to protect another pet (to me chickens are also considered my pets).
My cats don't chase the chickens and, I think due to the cats' lack of aggression or stalking behavior, the chickens don't mind the cats. The chickens could care less if they have a couple of cats sitting right beside their enclosure.
On the other hand I now see the false sense of security the chickens have developed for four legged small-ish size critters.
The chickens will run, hide, flap, and flip out if they see a dog (my dogs) running toward them. But despite what some folks think about chickens and their intelligence (or lack of it) I witness my chickens knowing the difference between one dog and another.
I have 3 dogs. One will kill any chicken if given a blink of opportunity. One minds his own business. One (youngest) can sit out attached to a run cable near/within a few yards of the enclosure when I go to feed them and let them out for the day and thinks they're fun but doesn't have any desire to harm them.

How far from the chickens' night enclosure should the hot wire be? I mean to say, the night time fully covered area with roosts and nest/laying boxes shares walls--on 2 sides/walls--the day time pen (which is large and gives the feel of free range, is vulnerable from hawks, but contained). So, if/when I run the hot wire, I'd have to be able to turn it on/off for day/night. I assume that's easy?
So, at what distance from the actual night pen should the wire be? Close enough to zap a predator but not a wing or beak...distances?
 
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I would attach the insulators right to the enclosure. Make sure the wire isn't touching your metal hardware cloth or it will short out and there will be no zap in the fence. It's easy enough to turn them on and off. I always unplug my horse fence before I go in the pasture or their pen.
 
I would attach the insulators right to the enclosure. Make sure the wire isn't touching your metal hardware cloth or it will short out and there will be no zap in the fence. It's easy enough to turn them on and off. I always unplug my horse fence before I go in the pasture or their pen.

Thank you. That sounds like a good way. I think I'd better start shopping for supplies.
 
Thanks again. I definitely Need to step up my time frame. I'm sure you all can guess, it happened again. This was by far the most gruesome event. I had to come inside and sit down or it was going to be barfing in the woods.
Not that the following question changes the solution/s but this time and the past couple instead of being eaten and left in the pen the predator/s are removing some of the bodies, I guess when they can.
Would this indicate a different or additional type of predator?
Again, it still ends up with killed chickens. I'm going to get brave and try to finish the job up there and then start on the solution.
 
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This is the light I have up for my run since running electric out there was way too expensive!! It has stopped many things from sticking around including my dog. Thought I would throw the idea out there for you! This solar light really does wonders and is as bright as a hard wired light. Good luck!
 

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