Roof install?

[docdubz]

I'm almost done with my barn/coop. I finally got my hands on the metal roofing for it. I have the rafters spaced at 3 feet but no beams going across. My question is, are these support beams necessary or is that more for building a roof that you intend to walk on?

 

[Folly's place]

Don't underbuild!!!
It's 'only a chicken coop' but you will be out there, may need to get on the roof, and having it collapse on the flock, or a person, ain't better.
Take weather into account; wind, rain, snow if you ever have snow and ice storms.
Mary

 

[piminuse]

Depends on the total dimension of the build. We have metal roofing on the run and while we initially though that the rafters would be enough we ended up having to install a beam as there was a bit of a sag. Our sheets were 12'x3' for reference.

 

[Panhandler80]

Plywood might be just as easy as beams, and not much more expensive. You can lay two edges up square, the just start screwing them in. Chalk-line the wild sides, and take a handheld skill saw them. Done. Now it's darn sure tied together, and you can screw metal roof in anywhere you want without having to worry about where seams occur, or trying to hit rafters just right with screws.

Just a thought.

 

[DobieLover]

Metal roofing is supposed to be attached to purlins.
Purlins are typically spaced 2' apart from the top of the rafters down.
3' on center rafter spacing will allow the roof to sag and eventually leak.

 

[Panhandler80]

Metal roofing is supposed to be attached to purlins.
Purlins are typically spaced 2' apart from the top of the rafters down.
3' on center rafter spacing will allow the roof to sag and eventually leak.

Rafters, plywood, underlayment and metal roof, and it ain't going no where. For a project about the size of a chicken coop, just slapping four piece of plywood up there and cutting chalk line once screwed in was the quickest / easiest solution I could find.

Also... on the metal... I butted mine up real neat on on end, and the ran them wild off the other side of roof. Then chalk lined the metal. Screwed a 2x4 as a fence into the metal, and than cut the metal with a hand held circular saw. Did not turn blade backwards. Worked like a charm! Was heavy gauge home roofing material too. Lots of that laying around still since 10/10/2018 Cat 5 storm.

Keep in mind... I just built a lean-to that came off house about 10 feet, and ran nearly 25 feet. For that project, I went with purlins. When I did the coop, it was easy to get sheets of ply up there, and it only took (if memory serves me correctly) 4 pieces. Decking was screwed in and cut in under an hour. Also provided opportunity to apply some peel and stick. I've got me some DRY chickens! ;-)

 

[DobieLover]

Rafters, plywood, underlayment and metal roof, and it ain't going no where. For a project about the size of a chicken coop, just slapping four piece of plywood up there and cutting chalk line once screwed in was the quickest / easiest solution I could find.

Also... on the metal... I butted mine up real neat on on end, and the ran them wild off the other side of roof. Then chalk lined the metal. Screwed a 2x4 as a fence into the metal, and than cut the metal with a hand held circular saw. Did not turn blade backwards. Worked like a charm! Was heavy gauge home roofing material too. Lots of that laying around still since 10/10/2018 Cat 5 storm.

Plywood is sold in 4x8 sheets.
The op has rafters 3' on center. The spacing is too far apart even if you want to use plywood which IMO is a waste of money. Purlins work just fine.

 

[Panhandler80]

Plywood is sold in 4x8 sheets.
The op has rafters 3' on center. The spacing is too far apart even if you want to use plywood which IMO is a waste of money. Purlins work just fine.

10-4.

Like I said... nothing against the purlin route. Another little project from this summer.

When I did my coop this year, the plywood just seemed to make sense for what I was doing.

 

[aart]

Metal roofing is supposed to be attached to purlins.
Purlins are typically spaced 2' apart from the top of the rafters down.
3' on center rafter spacing will allow the roof to sag and eventually leak.

Plywood is sold in 4x8 sheets.
The op has rafters 3' on center. The spacing is too far apart even if you want to use plywood which IMO is a waste of money. Purlins work just fine.

Ditto Dos^^!!
Here's a pic:

Wonders about the 3' rafter spacing<scratcheshead>

 

[Folly's place]

Me too! Spacing 36"?
Mary