I don't know much about the difference in hot and humid vs cold and damp, except the hot seems to draw the moisture out of things and the cold seems to lock the water inside of things. Your soil is dry even though it is humid, my soil gets mucky from the moisture. Your humidity is water leaving the ground, my soil is not releasing the water (it is hoarding it). The dirt here freezes solid due to the water in it.
I mainly use wood chips inside the coop (with hemp under the roost for easier sifting). Trust me when I say our run gets wet:
I'm going with the poop boards for sure after seeing the designs on here...I'm framing my walls with a stud at 36" to attach the boards to. I already have a ramp made for it when I get it put together. I hope to be complete with the inside in the next week or so.
I agree with this…I have to redesign because my bars are too close and too much pecking happens which could be avoided if the bars were further apart.
I have never used a ramp, y girls just fly up, the roosts are waist high on me.
Boy, that sure is the truth. I built 5 next boxes for 23 chickens, and they used 3. I now have 14 and they use 2, sometimes two hens squeeeese into one nest. What can I say,Did I miss it? Did someone tell you that you need a "hospital room" aka "time out area" ? Ideally a space big enough for you to access completely if the patient is really feeling poorly. (Also to clean her or the space, as it will be an intense time when they are there) I make a space that I can split into two rooms if needed, and if not necessary is just a bigger area.
I don't have a rooster (stupid bylaws) but I think some people give the boy his own room (sometimes where he can be alone w his special girl)
Your coop is awesome, the only thing I want to add is the song I always sing... Make as many of your surfaces washable as you possibly can. Poo is your constant companion... old recycled materials like mismatch ceramic tiles or vinyl, anything you can wipe up.
Insulation from heat or cold or rain... Ventilation needs to be done in a way it is not a draft on them when they sleep.
You will want to set food and water in a way it can't be tipped over (and they WILL test your set up)
Some people feed/water outside, some can not (weather, timing, predators) they are most hungry immediately after laying, and if the bowls run low or are inaccessible at that moment the next days' eggs are impacted. ( Size or quantity)
Nice to have an automatic door... But new hens will need to be taught when to come inside, so don't expect much help from a door that doesn't count hens before closing for the night. Once they have the schedule down, then the door is helpful.
Oh, and some hen keeperswill lock the girls up inside the coop for a few days when they first arrive, so they get used to it being home before letting them out. I wish I had done that... Mine all flew out first morning and I spent what felt like a long time trying to calm them down. Next time! Girls will be indoors for 2 or 3 days before we explore the run. They are stressed enough by a move, keeping them inside will be a respite)
Some choose nest boxes with separate compartments, some make long ones and let them decide where to lay, both have advantages... My next coop I will make one long open one with a way to add sliding separators later (if needed), the choice (from what I have lived) is not one I make, but rather it is their choice and I just have to deal with it.
