Run - question

[chicduckie]

We are getting a prefab coop and will place it in the run.

I am in the beginning stages of planning the run build and I was curious what does everyone use to secure the framing in the ground? Is concrete necessary? Deck block corners dug into the ground? Can I just use pressure-treated wood and dig it down a bit to make the base of the framing secure? We are in the Northeast and it can get windy - I don't want to pour concrete if I don't need to.

I am sure I am using all the wrong terms to people who have building experience LOL.

chicduckie

 

[triciayoung]

We used posts dug down a few feet. Our run is hardware cloth up to about 4-feet and then chicken wire up to 8-feet. It is 20x40 and half of it is covered. We also have a hardware cloth skirt around the entire run for predator protection. If you don't mind me asking, how many chickens do you have? I have 11 and made the mistake of getting 2-prefab coops in my run. One cost me almost $1000. Now, I am replacing and converting an 8x10 shed into a coop. The reason is, the prefab coops are not sufficient space if you need them when the chickens are awake, like high winds and other inclement weather. Also, the pre-fab coops have a tendency to put the roosting bars too close together. As a result, there is a lot of pecking that happens.

 

[Krugerrand]

With typical dirt/clay ground, simple T-posts can hold cattle panel arches in place. I followed this idea from Blooie to build my hoop run.

 

[Ridgerunner]

How big in feet will your run be? How tall? Will it be covered? What will it be built out off? Will it be solid so it picks up a lot of wind load or will it be wire mesh where the wind blows right through? Just trying to get an idea about how firm the supports need to be.

 

[chicduckie]

How big in feet will your run be? How tall? Will it be covered? What will it be built out off? Will it be solid so it picks up a lot of wind load or will it be wire mesh where the wind blows right through? Just trying to get an idea about how firm the supports need to be.

The run will be 8X24 - it will be 6ft tall (as I want a walk-in and I am 5"10). The run will be wood and hardware wire. Will have a roof - not sure of the material yet for that yet.

 

[chicduckie]

We used posts dug down a few feet. Our run is hardware cloth up to about 4-feet and then chicken wire up to 8-feet. It is 20x40 and half of it is covered. We also have a hardware cloth skirt around the entire run for predator protection. If you don't mind me asking, how many chickens do you have? I have 11 and made the mistake of getting 2-prefab coops in my run. One cost me almost $1000. Now, I am replacing and converting an 8x10 shed into a coop. The reason is, the prefab coops are not sufficient space if you need them when the chickens are awake, like high winds and other inclement weather. Also, the pre-fab coops have a tendency to put the roosting bars too close together. As a result, there is a lot of pecking that happens.

We are starting out with 4 chickens with room to grow. The prefab we are looking at is the Bungalow Chicken Coop at mypetchicken.com - its def not perfect but will be a good size for our four girls. It looks like there will be enough room for now. I wanted to build our own but that's down the road at this point since we have other house stuff that needs to get done. I like that you have half of yours is covered - do you have any trouble with aerial predators?

 

[3KillerBs]

We are starting out with 4 chickens with room to grow. The prefab we are looking at is the Bungalow Chicken Coop at mypetchicken.com - its def not perfect but will be a good size for our four girls. It looks like there will be enough room for now. I wanted to build our own but that's down the road at this point since we have other house stuff that needs to get done. I like that you have half of yours is covered - do you have any trouble with aerial predators?

I'm sorry to say this, but that's not a chicken coop, it's a dollhouse.

I get really angry with manufactures deceiving people with things like this.

Rules of Thumb

• If it looks like a dollhouse it's only suitable for toy chickens.
• If it's measured in inches instead of feet it's too small.
• If your walk-in closet is larger than the coop-run combo you're thinking of buying think carefully about whether you have an utterly awesome closet or are looking at a seriously undersized chicken coop.
• If a man of average height can't lie down in the run and stretch out comfortably it's too small.
• If it has more nestboxes than the number of chickens it can legitimately hold the designer knew nothing about chickens' actual needs and it probably has other design flaws too.

Don't waste your money. We can help you build something much, much better -- probably for less money.

This is a coop designed specifically to meet the guidelines for 4 hens: The Little, Monitor Coop. There are hundreds of other good designs on this site for any taste preference and any level of DIY skills.

The Usual Guidelines

For each adult, standard-sized hen you need:

• 4 square feet in the coop (.37 square meters)
• 10 square feet in the run (.93 square meters),
• 1 linear foot of roost (.3 meters),
• 1/4 of a nest box,
• And 1 square foot (.09 square meters) of permanent, 24/7/365 ventilation, preferably located over the birds' heads when they're sitting on the roost.

4 hens

• 16 square feet in the coop. 4'x4' is the only really practical build for this given the common dimensions of lumber.
• 4 feet of roost
• 40 square feet in the run. 4'x10' or 5'x8'. 6'x6' is a bit too small, 6'x8' is more generous and easier to build than 5'x8'.
• 4 square feet of ventilation. A 2'x2' window is theoretically enough, but in practice doesn't create any air FLOW so better to spread the venting around (and even better to exceed the minimums, especially in warm climates).
• 2 nest boxes, to give the hens a choice

The run will be 8X24 - it will be 6ft tall (as I want a walk-in and I am 5"10). The run will be wood and hardware wire. Will have a roof - not sure of the material yet for that yet.

That looks good -- nice and roomy -- but 6 feet might be too short once you get a good layer of bedding in there.

At that size you'll probably want to build it pretty solid -- like you would build a carport or a picnic shelter.

I like metal roofing because it's so easy to install with self-tapping screws and a cordless impact driver. My husband and brother-in-law did the roof of our coop, but I did some metal work on my outdoor brooder myself and didn't have any trouble with it even though I have arthritis in my wrists.

 

[Starrs]

We used posts dug down a few feet. Our run is hardware cloth up to about 4-feet and then chicken wire up to 8-feet. It is 20x40 and half of it is covered. We also have a hardware cloth skirt around the entire run for predator protection. If you don't mind me asking, how many chickens do you have? I have 11 and made the mistake of getting 2-prefab coops in my run. One cost me almost $1000. Now, I am replacing and converting an 8x10 shed into a coop. The reason is, the prefab coops are not sufficient space if you need them when the chickens are awake, like high winds and other inclement weather. Also, the pre-fab coops have a tendency to put the roosting bars too close together. As a result, there is a lot of pecking that happens.

I did the exact same thing. I had two prefabs and not enough room. I recently did an 8x8 shed conversion and now have plenty of space. I sold one of the coops and kept the larger one for my last three “mean girls” but that only works because they mostly prefer to live with the goats.

 

[aart]

We are in the Northeast and it can get windy

Then you might want to concrete the main support posts into the ground.
...and make sure your roof framing is sturdy to hold up to snow loads.

Where in the northwest?
Here's how to add your general geographical location to your profile.
It's easy to do, and then it's always there!

 

[triciayoung]

I did the exact same thing. I had two prefabs and not enough room. I recently did an 8x8 shed conversion and now have plenty of space. I sold one of the coops and kept the larger one for my last three “mean girls” but that only works because they mostly prefer to live with the goats.

I did the exact same thing. I had two prefabs and not enough room. I recently did an 8x8 shed conversion and now have plenty of space. I sold one of the coops and kept the larger one for my last three “mean girls” but that only works because they mostly prefer to live with the goats.

That's funny. I am keeping one of mine for the same reason - the bully girls.