Separate brooders?

A few questions. How old are the new chicks? Where do you live so we have an idea about your weather? How big is your coop? Do you have electricity in the coop so you could brood them out there? How are you brooding them now? The more information you can give us the more likely we can give you information that suits your circumstances. There are a lot of different options but which ones might suit you will depend on your unique circumstances.

Many of us brood outside in the coop, straight from the incubator or post office. A good way to get a big brooder is to use appliance boxes in your garage. If they outgrow what you have, get another appliance box and tape them together. Depending on your weather you may be able to move them to the coop at four weeks. I had a broody hen wean her chicks at three weeks earlier this spring. Yours may be able to go out much earlier than you think.

As to your specific question, can you separate them in two different brooders and put them back together later without problems? Maybe. Usually you can do that kind of stuff if they aren't separated for a long time. But you are dealing with living animals, you don't get guarantees. I once had a 2-week-old chick kill its hatchmate. A broody hen hatched them both and was raising them together. No integration of separation involved. That is extremely rare, it is not something I'd even come close to expecting to happen. But with living animals you just don't know what might happen.

In your situation I'd try to keep them together if possible. If you have to separate them I'd just put them back together when I could and observe, being ready to intervene if I have to. If you can set the two brooders up so they can see into the other so they don't become strangers. No matter which way you go I can't give you guarantees as to what will happen, but things like this can improve your odds. Reading on here you'd think that disasters are guaranteed if you don't do everything perfect. It doesn't work that way. Most of the time things work out pretty well even if you do a lot of things wrong. But things can possibly go wrong. That's mostly what you read about on here.

Good luck!
 
At what age do you all recommend doing this? I have always read not to move them to the coop before eight weeks of age. Our coop is too far from the house to run the heat lamp out there. I am in North Carolina though so it is definitely warm 24 hours a day at this point
At three weeks they can go into the coop...They cuddle and are a lot tougher than people think....They sleep in piles and will not freeze.....
 
A few questions. How old are the new chicks? Where do you live so we have an idea about your weather? How big is your coop? Do you have electricity in the coop so you could brood them out there? How are you brooding them now? The more information you can give us the more likely we can give you information that suits your circumstances. There are a lot of different options but which ones might suit you will depend on your unique circumstances.

Many of us brood outside in the coop, straight from the incubator or post office. A good way to get a big brooder is to use appliance boxes in your garage. If they outgrow what you have, get another appliance box and tape them together. Depending on your weather you may be able to move them to the coop at four weeks. I had a broody hen wean her chicks at three weeks earlier this spring. Yours may be able to go out much earlier than you think.

As to your specific question, can you separate them in two different brooders and put them back together later without problems? Maybe. Usually you can do that kind of stuff if they aren't separated for a long time. But you are dealing with living animals, you don't get guarantees. I once had a 2-week-old chick kill its hatchmate. A broody hen hatched them both and was raising them together. No integration of separation involved. That is extremely rare, it is not something I'd even come close to expecting to happen. But with living animals you just don't know what might happen.

In your situation I'd try to keep them together if possible. If you have to separate them I'd just put them back together when I could and observe, being ready to intervene if I have to. If you can set the two brooders up so they can see into the other so they don't become strangers. No matter which way you go I can't give you guarantees as to what will happen, but things like this can improve your odds. Reading on here you'd think that disasters are guaranteed if you don't do everything perfect. It doesn't work that way. Most of the time things work out pretty well even if you do a lot of things wrong. But things can possibly go wrong. That's mostly what you read about on here.

Good luck!


They will be delivered at the week after Father's Day so I don't have them yet but they will be just a day or two old. My breeder is simply a large Rubbermaid tu they will be delivered at the week after Father's Day so I don't have them yet but they will be just a day or two old. My breeder is simply a large Rubbermaid tub. I do not have electricity to my coop but I live in North Carolina so it is already very warm 24/7 here.
 
I agree with the above poster.

By not simply brooding your eleven new chicks in a brooding pen in the coop or run, you are passing up a golden opportunity to integrate easily and simply from the very start. And it solves your space concerns as the chicks grow in size.

Many of us brood right in our coops or runs in proximity to the existing flock. This makes it possible to begin mingling the two groups when the new chicks are as young as two weeks.

See my article linked below in my signature line on outdoor brooding for more details on why this works to everyone's advantage.
I don't see a signature under your post, is the link in your profile?
 
I would absolutely preferred to breed them inside the coop I have just always read that they have to have the heat lamp until at least eight weeks of age. But like I said, our first block was raised by their mom so I have not had the experience of raising chicks in the breeder at all.
 
The real important time for heat is the first two weeks...I'm in Alberta Canada and my Chicks have been out the last month with Momma Hen since 1 week old and they free range also...Even if you could Run extension cords...I do...:frow
 
You can read all kinds of things on the internet. In North Carolina at that time of year I'd be OK with them being 3-weeks-old when they went out. There are some things I'd do though.

Feed them at least a 20% Starter feed and keep treats to a minimum. That type of feed will help them feather out faster. if you feed them too many treats that cuts down on the effectiveness of the Starter feed.

Where you put them needs to be decent size with good ventilation up high, but they need wind protection at their level. This does not mean everywhere on their level has to be protected from a breeze, but they need a place they can get out of the wind if they want to.

Starting around 1 week old, take them outside so they can start getting used to the outside. This does not mean just during the heat of the day, expose them to different temperatures, especially cooler temperatures if you can find any. Have some kind of pen to confine them so you can catch them. You may be surprised at how well they can handle cool temperatures.

I raise mine in a brooder in the coop. A few years back in a heat wave I turned the daytime heat off at 2 days, nighttime heat off at 5 days. Their body language was telling me that they did not need it and they did not. They were more comfortable without it. You see those magic numbers all over this forum, whether age, hen to rooster ratio, space, temperature, all kinds of things. They take nothing into account related to individual conditions.

In the dead of winter with temperatures below freezing, I keep mine under heat until five weeks. I've had five-week-olds go through nights below freezing, but they were raised in the coop and acclimated to the cold. Others on here turn the heat off even earlier, some of them further north than me. I don't see that it hurts to leave some heat on them, just because they can survive colder temps doesn't mean they benefit by it. I just operate with an abundance of caution. I don't know what the person that says 8 weeks is basing that in, but around here that's not necessary even in the dead of winter. In North Carolina in summer, not even close to necessary.
 
If you're accessing BYC on a mobile device, you may not be seeing the sig line type. Here's the link to the article I was referring to. http://www.backyardchickens.com/a/r...rooder-and-start-raising-your-chicks-outdoors

You've been misinformed about chick heat requirements. Chicks, on average, are feathered out between age four and six weeks, and no longer require heat after that unless it's below freezing. Usually, chicks are feathered out enough at age three weeks to no longer require heat during the day at ambient temps of 70F and above.
 
If you're accessing BYC on a mobile device, you may not be seeing the sig line type. Here's the link to the article I was referring to. http://www.backyardchickens.com/a/r...rooder-and-start-raising-your-chicks-outdoors

You've been misinformed about chick heat requirements. Chicks, on average, are feathered out between age four and six weeks, and no longer require heat after that unless it's below freezing. Usually, chicks are feathered out enough at age three weeks to no longer require heat during the day at ambient temps of 70F and above.

Thank you, very helpful article! Do you think a heat pad is necessary at current NC temps? No cooler than 70 in the evening usually.
 
New chicks will need a heat source for the first three weeks. Until they get some feathers on their backs and sides, they lose body heat when the ambient temp is below 80F. It takes a good while for them to lose enough to be uncomfortable, but they need a place to warm up under when they need to.

I like the heating pad system because it's so natural and safe. It's very hard to overheat chicks with it, and they find different ways to self regulate with it. It's also much easier for them to wean themselves off heat using the heating pad. They simply stop using it once they no longer need heat.
 

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