She said/He said Who's right? Who's wrong? No one!

[NTBugtraq]

I would love to see you try the low humidity method from day one, using the air cells for guidance, and moving the chicks to the brooder as you feel comfortable doing and seeing what the results are. Not to make light of the deaths of chicks, but you can't do much worse than what's happening now. I would definitely use the spot check and do a salt check on the hygrometer.

Amy, I have started a thread in the HaL section to cover my current (started yesterday) and future repeated hatches. I am following your recommendations for low humidity (for the styrofoam bator).

I have to find instructions on doing a salt check on the hygrometer. Thanks again!

 

[sideWing]

My name is Inigo Montoya...You killed my father, prepare to die...

That movie!!!

It's a classic that we watch all the time.

@sideWing OK... maybe we need to put that up on the Marans breeder thread... Because I would think that since there are no actual sprigs, or odd things sticking out.. it should be fine.

No, it isn't as flat as a Leghorn comb... but does it need to be that flat? Yours looks just a bit meaty at the back base, but I don't see any clear "I am not a true single comb" indications..

Thanks Alaskan! I can't see any sprigs. I wondered if they could still pop up. He's about 4 months old. Should I let his next set of feathers come in first, or should I just ask for feedback on the Marans breeder thread now?

I've got a chick! Yay! For some reason I can't upload a pic right now but I'll try again later, my son is so chuffed he could see the chick before school

Congrats!

I have ordered a spot check digital thermometer so I can check the accuracy of the bator thermo.


Thanks Amy for taking the time to pick through my setting so thoroughly.

I use a temp gun to spot check the actual temperature of the egg shell during incubation. I'm using it to dial in my incubator.

I go by this chart with my temp gun reading at the middle (half way down) of the egg.

First picture of chick number 1! Gold laced poland

Sweet!

Here's another question that likely has as many answers as how to incubate...how do you teach hatchling chicks to eat and drink? Mine are pecking at the wood chips right freaky beside the food dish...and to them, the food dish doesn't exist. And I have yet to see them drink from the water bowl. I have stood them on the food, spread some food where they are pecking, put food on clear surfaces...even when they do peck at the food, they immediately peck at wood chips again...sigh.

I think others talked about this, but an old time chicken farmer told me that he puts out a couple paper plates and sprinkles feed on them. Then when he has the chickens attention he will tap it with his finger showing them how to peck.

Chicken tv is getting exciting this morning.
After no progression for about 28 hours, and no way I was going to open the lid, I decided my straw was my friend. I used it to flake the pieces off the first pipper. Wetted the membrane with a q-tip stuck in the straw. And decided that was as much as I could do.



It finally started doing the rest. Its still working at this moment, but I believe its gonna make it. I decided I better type and get my hands out because pip #4 just became the #1 out! Yeah!!



The one I helped is in the front - half-zipped.

Its sooooo tiny!!

So cute. Still waiting for the one that pipped the wrong end?

All right, Campbell... you called down the thunder, well now you've got it! You see that? It says United States Marshal! Take a good look at him, Amy... 'cause that's how you're gonna end up! The Cowboys are finished, you understand? I see a red sash, I kill the man wearin' it! So run, you cur... RUN! Tell all the other curs the law's comin'! You tell 'em I'M coming... and h**l's coming with me, you hear?... H**l's coming with me!

 

[RubyNala97]

Finally caught up!

I tend to thwart convention. In my forced air home made incubator, I aim for 100 degrees. My thermometers are calibrated to 100 degrees. I use a medical thermometer to calibrate, so am fairly certain that 100* is accurate. My hatches are good percentage 22/23/26 at last hatch with one stinker, one clear one mid and one late dead in shell. And at least 75% of my chicks hatch on day 21 with an occasional one before, and a few after. Never curled toes, hernias or unabsorbed yolks, or any other issues that might be associated with temp issues. The reason that I go a bit high is that IMO, if the temp fluctuates a degree up or down, 100 is a good starting point. But if I start at 99.5, and go low, I get down into what is IMO an unsafe low. Just my opinion. This has worked well for me.

I agree. Not that I have a ton of experience but with my last 2 hatches, my chicks did great in the incubator at 100. degrees. They only stayed in for 24-hours, though.

I can't believe this but all 14 of my shipped barred EE eggs are viable and looking great at day 11. Shipped with no stickers about "this side up" and no "fragile" stickers. I know some of the extra eggs were 7 days or older. I'm shocked. And they were stacked in a box every which way but loose. Not big end up.

That's great! I love the challenge of shipped eggs. But be prepared. I had great air cells and development in my last shipped egg hatch. But lots of quitters in lockdown. I'm crossing my fingers for you!!

First picture of chick number 1! Gold laced poland

That's just beautiful! Congrats!

Here's another question that likely has as many answers as how to incubate...how do you teach hatchling chicks to eat and drink? Mine are pecking at the wood chips right freaky beside the food dish...and to them, the food dish doesn't exist. And I have yet to see them drink from the water bowl. I have stood them on the food, spread some food where they are pecking, put food on clear surfaces...even when they do peck at the food, they immediately peck at wood chips again...sigh.

I only take one chick and dip his beak in the food and water. Then he teaches the other chicks what I just taught him. I would highly recommend that you start giving the remaining chicks some electrolytes by dropper into the mouth. Also you can hard boil an egg and mash up the hard boiled yoke with some starter. Put down paper towels over the shavings and sprinkle it all over the floor, that way they have nothing else to pick at. These guys need some extra help. I'm rooting for them.

They are gold laced polish??? Where's @CrzyChknLady81? She's dying for some!

I haven't been able to get a hold of her for days!

Chicken tv is getting exciting this morning. After no progression for about 28 hours, and no way I was going to open the lid, I decided my straw was my friend. I used it to flake the pieces off the first pipper. Wetted the membrane with a q-tip stuck in the straw. And decided that was as much as I could do. It finally started doing the rest. Its still working at this moment, but I believe its gonna make it. I decided I better type and get my hands out because pip #4 just became the #1 out! Yeah!! The one I helped is in the front - half-zipped. Its sooooo tiny!!

Love the pics by the way!

 

[scflock]

Ok, I don't know how to quote a post from one thread to another, so here is the response I got when I posted the pics of Little Man on the other thread. This may be boring you guys to death, but I find it interesting. It's from IhilaniCoffee

"Type first: This male narrows considerably from front to back, indicating lack of body capacity. The narrow pelvis will carry down to his daughters. Shallowness of body shows dramatically in the first photo. We can only guess that when this cockbird stands upright, he will show a short back and high tailset. All these points show a lack of substance. The original standards for poultry in the USA were based on production, and these things will affect the size and efficiency of internal organs and digestive function as well as laying ability in his daughters. Not everyone shows their birds (I don't), but the type will have a direct correlation to production in a backyard flock or a show flock. It costs the same to feed a productive bird as it does a poor producer.

Now to color: this male shows shafting and excess copper on the chest, white at the base of tail (unless this is a reflection in the photo), and hackle halo, all undesirable in BCM. The last photo shows what look like bumps on the right side of his comb (not full sprigs, but not smooth either). It would be good to see a clear, in-focus photo of the back of the comb from side and rear angle close up. What color egg (on the Marans chart) did this male hatch out from? Also important to know when breeding as the male's contribution is half your flock. But again, type before color (egg or bird).

From the hens and coop setup in the background, it appears you are breeding your birds. You would help the breed by finding a better male. I know it can be a challenge, as so many have "propagated" BCM rather than breeding quality stock with an eye to improving with each generation and weeding out some of the faults of the breed. I hope something here has been helpful."

 

[NTBugtraq]

I've now read up on how to test the hygrometer, but mine is screwed into the top of the bator...and I have eggs in there on Day 1. The salt test takes, some say, 6 hours which would mean my bator would not be providing heat or forced air during that time. Is it worth it to perform the test now, or should I wait till the bator is empty? I am running a dry incubation and currently the humidity says 35%.

 

[cppeace]

Yeah, that was a very very picky eye, but sounds as though they know what "they" are looking for.

 

[AmyLynn2374]

Amy, I have started a thread in the HaL section to cover my current (started yesterday) and future repeated hatches. I am following your recommendations for low humidity (for the styrofoam bator).

I have to find instructions on doing a salt check on the hygrometer. Thanks again!

I can't wait to see how it goes. I hope you have a much better hatch this time!

It's a classic that we watch all the time.

I haven't see it in years. I so need to get the dvd.



Ok, Our weather for the next 7 days...rain, with the exception of one day-tomorrow. That is not condusive to getting my coop finished!

 

[sideWing]

Ok, I don't know how to quote a post from one thread to another, so here is the response I got when I posted the pics of Little Man on the other thread. This may be boring you guys to death, but I find it interesting. It's from IhilaniCoffee

"Type first: This male narrows considerably from front to back, indicating lack of body capacity. The narrow pelvis will carry down to his daughters. Shallowness of body shows dramatically in the first photo. We can only guess that when this cockbird stands upright, he will show a short back and high tailset. All these points show a lack of substance. The original standards for poultry in the USA were based on production, and these things will affect the size and efficiency of internal organs and digestive function as well as laying ability in his daughters. Not everyone shows their birds (I don't), but the type will have a direct correlation to production in a backyard flock or a show flock. It costs the same to feed a productive bird as it does a poor producer.

Now to color: this male shows shafting and excess copper on the chest, white at the base of tail (unless this is a reflection in the photo), and hackle halo, all undesirable in BCM. The last photo shows what look like bumps on the right side of his comb (not full sprigs, but not smooth either). It would be good to see a clear, in-focus photo of the back of the comb from side and rear angle close up. What color egg (on the Marans chart) did this male hatch out from? Also important to know when breeding as the male's contribution is half your flock. But again, type before color (egg or bird).

From the hens and coop setup in the background, it appears you are breeding your birds. You would help the breed by finding a better male. I know it can be a challenge, as so many have "propagated" BCM rather than breeding quality stock with an eye to improving with each generation and weeding out some of the faults of the breed. I hope something here has been helpful."

I thought I might find that annoying, but it's very beautiful in it's own way. Impressive the way these folks know the breed and poultry in general. It was also very entertaining to read.

 

[AmyLynn2374]

I've now read up on how to test the hygrometer, but mine is screwed into the top of the bator...and I have eggs in there on Day 1. The salt test takes, some say, 6 hours which would mean my bator would not be providing heat or forced air during that time. Is it worth it to perform the test now, or should I wait till the bator is empty? I am running a dry incubation and currently the humidity says 35%.

No. Leave it and just let your air cells guide you through this time. Run dry and if you find that your air cells are growing too large, too fast, wet a sponge and put in it. I would recommend having a seperate hygrometer for in the bator though.

 

[scflock]

Yeah, that was a very very picky eye, but sounds as though they know what "they" are looking for.

If you really want to breed BCM to SOP, then there is no better thread on BYC to get advice. You just can't have a thin skin. If you ask for honest opinions, you will get them. I have learned a ton on that thread. 95% of the pics posted on that thread are picked to pieces, and I have only seen one or two birds that were called "promising", but those guys really know what they are talking about