She said/He said Who's right? Who's wrong? No one!

Yes, I have a serious candling problem, lol. With these though I keep checking so I can get the quitters out fast just incase 1 decides to explode. I don't want nasty egg stuff getting all over the eggs that are doing ok cause I'm sure they would all quit then since there's no bloom on any of them anymore. And it gives me a reason to candle more often. That's what I tell myself anyway, lol
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I think I read somewhere that there's a meeting of a new Candlers Anonymous group in Annapolis tonight.
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Yea, she did alot of things she shouldn't have and now I'm paying for it. I think her hens had all just started laying so shes new to all of this, but still, thats no reason to sell filthy eggs from a too young hen. At first I thought it was because I washed them but now I'm wondering. I washed the others also but I'm not having crazy issues with them quitting right and left and having strange wispy veins and big blobby masses in there that shouldn't be. I think her hens we're just too young to be collecting fertile eggs from them to sell.
Yea, I think I'm going to have to open it up if and when it quits (I'm pretty sure it will before lockdown) I can't not know what that is, lol. I thought at first maybe it was just a knot of blood vessels that got stuck on the shell together but I don't even know if that's possible? Yeah, I'll satisfy my and everyone else's curiosity if he, or maybe they, quit on me.
My best hatch was from my pullets that had only been laying 4-6 weeks at the time I collected. 21 went in, one quite by day 5 the rest made it to lockdown and hatched perfectly. If the size of the eggs are decent and the pullets egg making is all kosher, then there shouldn't be a problem. I don't know if shipping with pullets is any worse than shipping with more major eggs though.

I am feeling a bit defeated, not holding my breath for this hatch. What exactly should the temps & humidity be for a still air incubator? I read such conflicting information from 98* to no it needs to be 101* and everything in between. How much does the age of the hen play in the hatchability of the eggs? Ugh
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Still air should be 101-102 taken near the tops of the eggs. Humidity is finding what works for you by monitoring the air cells or weighing the eggs. I am not comfortable incubating at less than 25% or higher than 40% for the majority and only adjusting on either side of those numbers if the air cells signify I need to and then only temporarily.

Oh, great...baby dragons!
I want a baby dragon!

Yes, I have a serious candling problem, lol. With these though I keep checking so I can get the quitters out fast just incase 1 decides to explode. I don't want nasty egg stuff getting all over the eggs that are doing ok cause I'm sure they would all quit then since there's no bloom on any of them anymore. And it gives me a reason to candle more often. That's what I tell myself anyway, lol
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For one, exploding eggs though they can happen are not all that common, especially later in the hatch. Chances are (not always, nothing is certain) you will smell a bad egg before it gets to the eggsplosion point. Everyone knows I love to candle. I candle (a few, not all) every night when incubating to get my fix and spot check. But here's the thing: I don't do shipped eggs, (yet anyway). Even I understand and admit the logic behind less is better for an egg that has been abused through the postal service. In all honesty you think you maybe protecting yourself from a bad egg episode, but you may be weakening an already weak egg. Now you can do what others do and take the theory that you only want the strongest and enable your candling more or you can side on the giving them the opportunity to strengthen by lessoning your intervention thus giving them slightly better chances. I always say to do what's comfortable for you [the hatcher] if it's working no matter what anyone says, but I also believe that if something isn't working you should probably change your methods-at least for the changing circumstances.
 
My best hatch was from my pullets that had only been laying 4-6 weeks at the time I collected. 21 went in, one quite by day 5 the rest made it to lockdown and hatched perfectly. If the size of the eggs are decent and the pullets egg making is all kosher, then there shouldn't be a problem. I don't know if shipping with pullets is any worse than shipping with more major eggs though.

Still air should be 101-102 taken near the tops of the eggs. Humidity is finding what works for you by monitoring the air cells or weighing the eggs. I am not comfortable incubating at less than 25% or higher than 40% for the majority and only adjusting on either side of those numbers if the air cells signify I need to and then only temporarily.

I want a baby dragon!


For one, exploding eggs though they can happen are not all that common, especially later in the hatch. Chances are (not always, nothing is certain) you will smell a bad egg before it gets to the eggsplosion point. Everyone knows I love to candle. I candle (a few, not all) every night when incubating to get my fix and spot check. But here's the thing: I don't do shipped eggs, (yet anyway). Even I understand and admit the logic behind less is better for an egg that has been abused through the postal service. In all honesty you think you maybe protecting yourself from a bad egg episode, but you may be weakening an already weak egg. Now you can do what others do and take the theory that you only want the strongest and enable your candling more or you can side on the giving them the opportunity to strengthen by lessoning your intervention thus giving them slightly better chances. I always say to do what's comfortable for you [the hatcher] if it's working no matter what anyone says, but I also believe that if something isn't working you should probably change your methods-at least for the changing circumstances.
Didn't I see a pic of a baby dragon in your yard a while back?
 
I do know that he started to develope in the egg front and center in relation to the turner if that may have anything to do with it. Where he's developing in the egg is pointing straight to the front of the turner.
Here's a question for all of you who have auto turners. Those work by tilting the egg on a longitudinal axis 45* forward and 45* backward, yes? Those eggs are only moving in one plane. Do you take the time to occasionally rotate them 90* on that longitudinal axis so they are now tilting in a different plane? I know that when I used egg cartons for the hatch, I did rotate the eggs in their cells so they were not always being tilted in the same plane. I also turned the egg cartons around, and moved them from left to right in the bator, so the eggs weren't in the same place in the bator every day.

I don't know if I could handle some horrible, pulsating blob coming out of this egg, lol. I'd have nightmares forever
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You could feed it to that lil snake that hatches under your traumatized broody.

I think I read somewhere that there's a meeting of a new Candlers Anonymous group in Annapolis tonight.
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I hear that it's gonna be a candle light vigil.
 
Here's a question for all of you who have auto turners. Those work by tilting the egg on a longitudinal axis 45* forward and 45* backward, yes? Those eggs are only moving in one plane. Do you take the time to occasionally rotate them 90* on that longitudinal axis so they are now tilting in a different plane? I know that when I used egg cartons for the hatch, I did rotate the eggs in their cells so they were not always being tilted in the same plane. I also turned the egg cartons around, and moved them from left to right in the bator, so the eggs weren't in the same place in the bator every day.

Yes. Especially in the LG, I was moving eggs around in the incubator and rotating 90 degrees at every move. The Brinsea Polyhatch is a horizontal roller, so no issues, they roll irregularly so do go through 360 degrees of rotation over time. The Eco 20s I am also using as horizontal rollers, but they only do the 90 degree tilt so I roll those too. And even in storage I rotate the eggs in the turners 90 degrees once a day so they get both tilt and turn.

The GQF...I will test incubating horizontally in the wire tray vs. vertically in egg racks. Whatever I set, I will divide each group of eggs in half and compare development and success. I'll need to make egg rails for the trays to prevent rollovers. The GQF tilts more than 45 degrees. Eggs in trays move the embryo across the full top third of the egg, horizontal positioning would be about 100 degrees of rotation. Since they are timed rotations, it's different than all my other incubators, which are slow continuous movement.
 
Here's a question for all of you who have auto turners.  Those work by tilting the egg on a longitudinal axis 45* forward and 45* backward, yes?  Those eggs are only moving in one plane.  Do you take the time to occasionally rotate them 90* on that longitudinal axis so they are now tilting in a different plane?  I know that when I used egg cartons for the hatch, I did rotate the eggs in their cells so they were not always being tilted in the same plane.  I also turned the egg cartons around, and moved them from left to right in the bator, so the eggs weren't in the same place in the bator every day.

You could feed it to that lil snake that hatches under your traumatized broody.

I hear that it's gonna be a candle light vigil.


I use a turner and when I candle they get rotated a bit. Mostly because I'm more concerned about what side is up or down and just put them back without much more consideration.
 

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