She said/He said Who's right? Who's wrong? No one!

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AmyLynn2374 said:
So I am going to go ahead and be my normal opinionated self and do some disagreeing.
Yes, I agree condensation is too much humidity and needs to be cut back slightly. BUT if you are going to be "red" and open the bator I would caution against going too low. I have the LG (9200). I have great hatches in it. Mine does have the fan, but I am a meddler. I am full on red at hatch. At day 18 I up my humidity to 75%. At hatch once they start it often goes up to 80-90% No problems. Now, because I do open my bator during hatch it doesn't stay up at 85% or more that long and I do not get condensation build up either. I also remove my chicks as they become active, so that in itself removes some of the "extra moisture".

Here's where I say, I have never lost a pipper/zipper. My last hatch was 100% from lockdown to hatch. I highly believe it is better to run high than low (as long as there is no condensation build up). I personally do not like seeing my bator get to 65%, that is when I start wetting my sponge to get it back to the 75% so that the next time that I open I know I have adequate humidity. My disclaimer: many people hatch at 65%. The majority of those are hands off hatchers to my observations. There are always those that have opposite experiences as well and will always argue their way is the way. My philosophy is, if it works for you, it doesn't matter what anyone else is doing. I actively disagree with a lot of the common ideals of hatching, but I also validate that different things do work for different people.



I was going to send you to her site...lol


The LG 9300 is notorious for the display (both temps and humidity) being off.
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I appreciate you speaking up. I had read so many different things that I really wasn't sure where temps and humidity should be at for hatching. Unfortunately I didn't read enough about the LG9300 before I bought one
he.gif
 
Ren2014 said:
I appreciate you speaking up. I had read so many different things that I really wasn't sure where temps and humidity should be at for hatching. Unfortunately I didn't read enough about the LG9300 before I bought one
he.gif
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Temps are pretty straight forward. Most everyone agrees that still air should be 101-102 taken near the top of the eggs and forced should be 99.5. Humidity is a whole other story. Everyone will tell you different. It's a matter of finding what works for you. I'm a big fan of the low humidity hatching (providing you're not in a high elevation.) Especially with the stryo bators. I aim for 30% the first 17 days and up to 75% on day 18. I use this method: http://letsraisechickens.weebly.com...anuals-understanding-and-controlling-humidity I feel checking air cells or weighing is very important to guide you on how to adjust.

"Dry" incubation as it's often misleadingly called has been around for a while, but has recently started gaining popularity. I prefer the term "low humidity incubation" because it's not always about running completely dry. I took what I found in researching dry incubation, combined it with monitoring air cells and tried to offer an explanation as to why we need humidity and exactly what humidity does so that hatchers would understand the "why" and not just be following a process.

The problem is, especially with the cheap styro bators the manuals throw out either a number or how much water to put in them, without taking in the many variables that affect a person's humidity. (Plus I just plain think anything over 45% the first 17 days is risky.)

A lot of hatching is trail and error and finding what works for you and your comfort zone.
 
AmyLynn2374 said:
Temps are pretty straight forward. Most everyone agrees that still air should be 101-102 taken near the top of the eggs and forced should be 99.5. Humidity is a whole other story. Everyone will tell you different. It's a matter of finding what works for you. I'm a big fan of the low humidity hatching (providing you're not in a high elevation.) Especially with the stryo bators. I aim for 30% the first 17 days and up to 75% on day 18. I use this method: http://letsraisechickens.weebly.com...anuals-understanding-and-controlling-humidity I feel checking air cells or weighing is very important to guide you on how to adjust.

"Dry" incubation as it's often misleadingly called has been around for a while, but has recently started gaining popularity. I prefer the term "low humidity incubation" because it's not always about running completely dry. I took what I found in researching dry incubation, combined it with monitoring air cells and tried to offer an explanation as to why we need humidity and exactly what humidity does so that hatchers would understand the "why" and not just be following a process.

The problem is, especially with the cheap styro bators the manuals throw out either a number or how much water to put in them, without taking in the many variables that affect a person's humidity. (Plus I just plain think anything over 45% the first 17 days is risky.)

A lot of hatching is trail and error and finding what works for you and your comfort zone.
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I had read where some turn the heat down once hatching begins. I wasn't sure about that but I did drop it a bit because of the humidity.
 
kwhites634 said:
@ronott1,
Caught your exchange on that other incubation thread recently.
You've got far more patience than I do!
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It can be very hard sometimes. It comes from working with PHD Faculty at a major research institution.

And thanks for the compliment!
 
kwhites634 said:
Wondering if PHD stands for the same thing in your circles as it does in mine
smile.png
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Yes, and more so on some days than others...Most are great though. My Department has about 80 of them that I provide computer support for.
 

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