She said/He said Who's right? Who's wrong? No one!

[scflock]

Speaking of that, Walnut and I have been talking for the last few days about a great idea for the thread. OK, it was her idea, but I talk way more, so here it is:
Hatching season is coming up, and I have seen it posted that people shouldn't give advice on something that hasn't been researched. Since the gang is all back together, I think we have every conceivable kind of incubator covered. Some of us began hatching last year

, some of us have been hatching multiple species of birds for many years. Sounds like research to me

We could kinda start the thread over again where it started before Amy went on vacation. For absolutely no reason whatsoever

Tell what incubator you have, what has worked and what hasn't, and yes, we are reviving the red and blue teams, as well as parades

, for the new season.
What do you guys think?

 

[AmyLynn2374]

Thanks!
Still air, but I have plans to upgrade.

Do you know what you are upgrading to?

 

[WVduckchick]

Speaking of that, Walnut and I have been talking for the last few days about a great idea for the thread. OK, it was her idea, but I talk way more, so here it is:
Hatching season is coming up, and I have seen it posted that people shouldn't give advice on something that hasn't been researched. Since the gang is all back together, I think we have every conceivable kind of incubator covered. Some of us began hatching last year

, some of us have been hatching multiple species of birds for many years. Sounds like research to me

We could kinda start the thread over again where it started before Amy went on vacation. For absolutely no reason whatsoever

Tell what incubator you have, what has worked and what hasn't, and yes, we are reviving the red and blue teams, as well as parades

, for the new season.
What do you guys think?

Yes vote!

 

[AmyLynn2374]

Speaking of that, Walnut and I have been talking for the last few days about a great idea for the thread. OK, it was her idea, but I talk way more, so here it is:
Hatching season is coming up, and I have seen it posted that people shouldn't give advice on something that hasn't been researched. Since the gang is all back together, I think we have every conceivable kind of incubator covered. Some of us began hatching last year

, some of us have been hatching multiple species of birds for many years. Sounds like research to me

We could kinda start the thread over again where it started before Amy went on vacation. For absolutely no reason whatsoever

Tell what incubator you have, what has worked and what hasn't, and yes, we are reviving the red and blue teams, as well as parades

, for the new season.
What do you guys think?

You already know I love the idea. Kick it back up!! Red rules, blue drools and

for the no reason.....lol

 

[BantyChooks]

Hey you!    

Howdy WV.

Do you know what you are upgrading to?

Probably homemade, but I'm doing some more research first!






ETA: SC, I think that would be lots of fun...... If my vote counts yet, since I joined 5 minutes ago.

 

[scflock]

Howdy WV.

Probably coolerbator, but I'm doing some more reaserch first!






ETA: SC, I think that would be lots of fun...... If my vote counts yet, since I joined 5 minutes ago.

Mommy's going to be mad at you, but no one hatches in a 9200 like Amy

 

[scflock]

for the no reason.....lol

 

[WalnutHill]

Everyone's input counts. Taking into account regional conditions, altitude, and equipment will make this immensely valuable. So I'd like to suggest for "incubator experiences" that they be:

Firsthand experience
Your general location
Time of year/average weather conditions
Brand and model of incubator
How it's equipped (still air, forced air, type of thermostat such as analog or digital, and proportional or not if known)
Egg turning method and frequency
Incubation set temperature and where measured
Backup thermometer reading and where measured
What kind of eggs, and if there were unusual storage conditions (over two weeks old, refrigerated, started under a broody, etc)
How you control humidity and what you tried to maintain
How long it took to hatch
Whether you assisted in hatching
What percentage made it to 3 days

I incubated in 6 or so different incubators last year but I would like to focus my observations on what I am doing today, as the last two years have been dissatisfying to say the least.

And as a last step, after posting, please put a permanent link to your story in your signature for others to find easily.

Or do it your way, and it will still be useful!

 

[scflock]

Ok, I'll start
Brinsea Octagon 20 Advance
I hatch mostly EEs, AMs, and cuckoo and black copper marans. So far, most of my hatches have done best when incubated at 35-42% for the first 18 days. The exception to that rule is black copper marans. I have my best results with them incubating dry, as long as humidity doesn't drop below 25%.
I average a 90%+ hatch rate of fertile eggs, but have had worse numbers, and one 100% hatch. My failures have all been caused by too high humidity, where the air cells don't grow enough and the chicks drown. I don't have temperature spikes that kill them because Brinseas are usually very stable, so if you have temp issues in styro, ask someone else.
For anyone that doesn't know, I am the captain of the blue team. I don't assist, and don't take chicks out as they hatch. Usually the incubator isn't opened until the majority of the hatch is complete. The only time I open during hatching is if an unhatched egg is covered by a broken egg.

Ok, next...
ETA: I'm in SC, where the summertime humidity can be an issue. The Brinsea is forced air, and water is added to two wells under the eggs for humidity. Humidity is controlled by putting water in one, or both, wells, and adjusting the air vent. In the summer, I can incubate with one well of water and the vent fully open. Right now, in the dead of winter, I have to fill both wells just to maintain 40%. My biggest complaint with the Octagon is maintaining 65% humidity at lockdown, and this is a common complaint with users of this unit. I can correct it by adding a paper towel under the egg tray, wicking water for a larger surface ara to boost humidity. People in more dry climates may use felt or sponges. RubyNala is working with hers, and FridayYet and WV have the full blown setup with the humidity pump.
My backup thermometer is a Brinsea Spot Check, and I can take temperatures all over the incubator at egg level. I tke an average of all those temperatures, and adjust the digital display accordingly

 

[AmyLynn2374]

Amy- I use an LG9200- self appointed humidity queen- and even though I did not write the book on "dry" humidity......

I have put together my methodology based on it, only I call it "low humidity incubation" because I feel "dry is misleading. I even put my method together in a blog post (that I am proud of (pardon my narcissistic moment) and am willing to share it every chance I get. I have found that especially with the styro bators that low humidity the first 17 days and checking the air cells works very well (as long as you are not a high altitude hatcher.) I am very hands on, with no apology. I spot check candling daily, I remove chicks as they become active after hatch and turn over pippers and clear out shells. I also assist if I feel it's neccessary. I'm a bleeding heart hatcher and will do anything to save a chick. I started incubating using an automatic turner, but during a full turner hatched I switched to hand turning and found that I prefered that much better. My highest rates have been hand turning. I don't know if that's just coincidence, or if it is directly related. I now stop turning my eggs at the end of day 13, because the Cobb chick embryo development chart states that the chick starts turning to the big end at day 14, so logic told me leave em alone while they are turning. I did not have any upside down malepositioned pippers, so I have elected to keep that method constant going into this year hatching. I have the fan kit installed in my bator, and they suck because they are not covered. After the first few hatches I had 2 chicks in one hatch get hurt stretching out under it. I have always been one to remove my chicks after hatch. I started by leaving them in until quite a few were hatched, then went to letting them half dry and then after having chicks getting hurt, I remove them as they start to get active. I hae thought about devising a sort of screen...but this gives me an excuse to take them out....lol No, I just haven't gotten around to it because unlike some of my fellow hatchers, I only do a handful of hatches in spring and as of yet, am not a yar round hatcher. I use a high humidity at hatch time because I am a hands on bator opener and the chicks dry and fluff much better under the brooder light than in the humid bator...or "swamp" as someone calls it. I also provide electrolyte enhanced water and food from the get go.

Ok....I think that's it.

Or not...lol Since I am using an LG9200 I am just grateful if the temps stay above 99 and below 102....lol Usually it stabalizes between 100-101 and I leave it alone. This does make my hatches a wee bit early. I usually start seeing at least pips on day 19, but the chicks all hatch out healthy so I am fine with that. I run humidity at 30% first 17 days and up it to 75% for hatch. I live in UPSTATE New York-aka northern NY, so we have all four seasons (sometimes all in one day. ) I started hatching fall of 2014 and brooded the chicks in the house for the entire winter (a mistake I will not make again.) Last year I only hatched around 100 chicks, but 98% were prefectly healthy and grew into hardy chickens. All but 3 of my flock I hatched myself. The majority of chickens in my flock are barnyard mixes, I have nns, Pure Silver Spangled Appenzeller Spitzhaubens, Pure Black Japanese Bantam hens, and some silkies, that are blah quality-not bearded. I have two coops atm and one roo in each. I usually show 100% fertility so far. My highest hatch rate was with my own pullet eggs and it was 100% from lockdown with only one from set that was an early quitter. I usually have three thermometers and one hygrometer in the bator, I never use less than 2 thermometers.

Ok, I think I added most of Walnut's suggestions.