Show me your small shed conversion

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I can always use leftover money to buy a floor for the 1st playhouse.
Do you think it would be better than my prefab\hold more birds

they all fit ok in the prefab, so whats the point if the playhouses fit less?

What is the actual floor area of the coop minus nestboxes and the playhouse minus the space that internal, floor-level nestboxes will take up?

2 square feet per bird for bantams is .19 square meters.

the first one if you give them 1sq feet could keep 12.

This is approaching caged layer territory. :(

My coop is only for sleeping and laying.

Here's an excerpt from an article I'm writing:

But I free range/have a huge run and my chickens only use the coop to sleep and lay eggs! Why do I need all that space inside?
You might not. As I've said, these are guidelines, not hard-and-fast rules.​
If you never close the pop door so that your coop and run function together as a fully integrated system that is the equivalent of a huge, open-air coop, then your flock might be just fine for years, even decades.​
If you are always out there to open the pop door at the crack of dawn or you have an ultra-reliable automatic door so that your chickens never lack access to their free range territory during the daylight hours, then your flock might be just fine for years, even decades.​
If you live in a mild climate where chickens can always go out into their run/range and are never kept in by snow or storms, then your flock might be just fine for decades. People who keep chickens in places with tropical and subtropical climates do successfully go without a coop at all, just offering a covered roost and some nestboxes.​
But when something happens ...​
When a determined predator moves in and breaks through the fencing so that you have to confine the flock to the coop itself so that you can fix the run,​
When an extreme weather event prevents your chickens from leaving shelter for days,​
When an emergency calls you out of town and you can't find someone willing to be there at the crack of dawn to open the pop door,​
Then you could have a mess on your hands.​
Which brings us back to the issue of flexibility and options. Any time you push a system hard against it's limits you have to count on everything remaining stable -- exactly as it is without any changes. How well that's likely to work depends on your specific circumstances. You may never encounter an unfortunate circumstance -- some people DO hit the lottery, after all.​
 
What is the actual floor area of the coop minus nestboxes and the playhouse minus the space that internal, floor-level nestboxes will take up?

2 square feet per bird for bantams is .19 square meters.



This is approaching caged layer territory. :(



Here's an excerpt from an article I'm writing:

But I free range/have a huge run and my chickens only use the coop to sleep and lay eggs! Why do I need all that space inside?
You might not. As I've said, these are guidelines, not hard-and-fast rules.​
If you never close the pop door so that your coop and run function together as a fully integrated system that is the equivalent of a huge, open-air coop, then your flock might be just fine for years, even decades.​
If you are always out there to open the pop door at the crack of dawn or you have an ultra-reliable automatic door so that your chickens never lack access to their free range territory during the daylight hours, then your flock might be just fine for years, even decades.​
If you live in a mild climate where chickens can always go out into their run/range and are never kept in by snow or storms, then your flock might be just fine for decades. People who keep chickens in places with tropical and subtropical climates do successfully go without a coop at all, just offering a covered roost and some nestboxes.​
But when something happens ...​
When a determined predator moves in and breaks through the fencing so that you have to confine the flock to the coop itself so that you can fix the run,​
When an extreme weather event prevents your chickens from leaving shelter for days,​
When an emergency calls you out of town and you can't find someone willing to be there at the crack of dawn to open the pop door,​
Then you could have a mess on your hands.​
Which brings us back to the issue of flexibility and options. Any time you push a system hard against it's limits you have to count on everything remaining stable -- exactly as it is without any changes. How well that's likely to work depends on your specific circumstances. You may never encounter an unfortunate circumstance -- some people DO hit the lottery, after all.​
This is why I needed your help! I want my coop to be able to hold up to 10 chickens at night, comfortably. That's why I got fed up with my prefab, I felt bad that I have one so I'm trying to fix my mistakes now.
I asked a friend of mine to check for something where they are so hopefully she'll find something. I'll keep looking today as well
 
This might help you on your search
To work out the square footage of a coop take the length and multiply it by the depth, lets say the coop is 3ft by 3ft that would be 3x3= 9 so the coop is 9 sq ft, if you take that number you can work out how many chickens easily by dividing it by the sq ft the chickens need so 2 9%2= 4.5

I hope that make sense
 
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