Sickly rooster...loss of weight, crop never fills (though he wants to and does eat) Help and suggest

[HenOnTheHill]

I have a 10 month old wyandotte rooster who late last week I noticed was acting lethargic (though he is pretty chill already as a general rule). I picked him up and noticed also that he had lost a fair amount of weight. His crop seems especially empty. After examining him more closely, I discovered that he had a large amount of lice eggs on his backside (though no one else in the coop had a significant build up). He had broken the tip of his beak early in the fall and I don't know if this had anything to do with it (decreased ability to preen himself?). At any rate, he got a bath with a pyrethrin flea dip and I put a treated dusting box out for the rest of the birds to kill the gross little intruders.

He is now in my garage with another hen who is on 'bed rest' for a different and unrelated issue. These two get along well and both have been getting extra goodies in addition to their pellets-oatmeal, banana's, yogurt, even some ham (talk about happy birds!). The rooster has been eating all that is given to him, and seems to have perked up after his cleansing bath, though he has been quiet (no crowing). The concern that I have is that he is not putting back on any weight and his crop always seems to be empty, even after eating. His poop has periodically been green as well, even though he has not been eating lettuce, cabbage, or any other greens. From what I've gathered, this is a bad sign and could be that he is expelling bile.

Does anyone have any suggestions?

 

[Eggcessive]

First of all I would probably worm him with fenbendazole (SafeGuard) liquid goat wormer or Valbazen. Then I would cut some things out of his diet, especially ham because of it's high salt content, and instead of yogurt, try a small amount of buttermilk for the probiotics. He doesn't need salt or too much calcium in his diet. Salt can cause gout. The feed should be a good 16-20% balanced feed. If you want to give him meat or extra protein try unsalted hamburger, liver, scrambled eggs, or some low salt tuna. But chicken feed needs to be 90% of his diet. Check his crop in the evening when it should be full. If it's not, he's is either getting kept from the food, he's not eating, or he has some sort of blockage past the crop. Make sure there are 2 feeders out for an bullied birds. Chickens can also get coccidiosis even at his age if they are exposed to a new strain by moving or adding a new bird.

 

[HenOnTheHill]

First of all I would probably worm him with fenbendazole (SafeGuard) liquid goat wormer or Valbazen. Then I would cut some things out of his diet, especially ham because of it's high salt content, and instead of yogurt, try a small amount of buttermilk for the probiotics. He doesn't need salt or too much calcium in his diet. Salt can cause gout. The feed should be a good 16-20% balanced feed. If you want to give him meat or extra protein try unsalted hamburger, liver, scrambled eggs, or some low salt tuna. But chicken feed needs to be 90% of his diet. Check his crop in the evening when it should be full. If it's not, he's is either getting kept from the food, he's not eating, or he has some sort of blockage past the crop. Make sure there are 2 feeders out for an bullied birds. Chickens can also get coccidiosis even at his age if they are exposed to a new strain by moving or adding a new bird.

Is this the same SafeGuard wormer used for horses? (Don't know if there is a separate one just for goats). If so, how much should I give him? The ham was a once and done thing (fatty cuts from the main hunk), as was the yogurt (left over from lunch). I can make some buttermilk easy enough for him to drink/eat, and obviously the scrambled eggs are easy. The pellets that we feed are an 18% mix and he does have free access to this at all times. He is currently in a smaller cage with one other hen, and I watch him eat, so I know he is consuming food. If anything, he is the one who gets first dibs and the hen will wait until he has a beak full before her turn. Since this is the case, what type of blockage would/could he have past the crop? Wouldn't the crop still fill before it gets blocked elsewhere? If there is a blockage, is there anything that I can do about it? Lastly, if I am going to worm him (assuming to rule that problem out), would putting him on Corid (have some on hand) to treat for Cocci interact with the wormer, or is it ok to give both at the same time? Though, with this thought in mind, there have not been any new birds added to the flock.

 

[Eggcessive]

You can use SafeGuard equine paste 1 pea sized dollop or 1/2-3/4 ml, depending on his size. Same amount for SG Liquid Goat Wormer, which is in a bit bigger container. Not trying to criticise your feeding, just making suggestions. Some don't know about salt being bad. If he's eating his crop should be full, but if he's not there could be blockage in the gizzard. Worms, lice/mites, cocci, and enteritis are all things that could cause weight loss.

 

[HenOnTheHill]

You can use SafeGuard equine paste 1 pea sized dollop or 1/2-3/4 ml, depending on his size. Same amount for SG Liquid Goat Wormer, which is in a bit bigger container. Not trying to criticise your feeding, just making suggestions. Some don't know about salt being bad. If he's eating his crop should be full, but if he's not there could be blockage in the gizzard. Worms, lice/mites, cocci, and enteritis are all things that could cause weight loss.

I appreciate your suggestions, and you are right, I did not think about the salt, I just wanted to get some protein in him. Are oatmeal (quick oats) and apples ok? Somewhere I read that apples are helpful if it is a liver condition (though I don't remember where I read it or the details).

I have Ivermectin on hand for our horses. Is it possible to use this as a wormer (I've been trying to get an idea by reading, but have not found any clear cut information), or is it the

fenbendazole that is the key ingredient. I can go pick some up today, the rest will get used on the horse's next worming rotation anyway. By the sounds of it, I get a pea sized dollop on my finger and stick it in his beak (like you would with the horses)? Do I need to repeat this in 7-10 days? Will this wormer kill any lice on him as well? Should I then worm the rest of the flock to be safe? And last question, should I then have a wait period before eating the eggs (I've gathered 1-2 weeks on this, but am not sure). ​

I really do appreciate your advice and knowledge. I've learned more about chickens in the last year than I ever thought was possible! We had a few when I was a kid, but miraculously they did their own thing and never got sick (isn't that a nice memory? Haha! ​

 

[HenOnTheHill]

You can use SafeGuard equine paste 1 pea sized dollop or 1/2-3/4 ml, depending on his size. Same amount for SG Liquid Goat Wormer, which is in a bit bigger container. Not trying to criticise your feeding, just making suggestions. Some don't know about salt being bad. If he's eating his crop should be full, but if he's not there could be blockage in the gizzard. Worms, lice/mites, cocci, and enteritis are all things that could cause weight loss.

I also have some Wazine that I apparently bought last spring and just found in a cabinet in the mudroom. Is it effective as a broad spectrum wormer? I had not opened it, thinking about returning/exchanging it, but if it will be effective...game on.

 

[HenOnTheHill]

You can use SafeGuard equine paste 1 pea sized dollop or 1/2-3/4 ml, depending on his size. Same amount for SG Liquid Goat Wormer, which is in a bit bigger container. Not trying to criticise your feeding, just making suggestions. Some don't know about salt being bad. If he's eating his crop should be full, but if he's not there could be blockage in the gizzard. Worms, lice/mites, cocci, and enteritis are all things that could cause weight loss.

Elated but super gross update: I used Wazine to worm my roo last night and today when I got home from work I found a pile of roundworms in his poop, and I mean a PILE. I don't often feel so happy and grossed out at the same time! Next question is...do I worm again in 7 days? You suggested Safeguard and I read that it was good to follow up with this type of wormer. I am treating the rest of the birds in the morning after pulling water tonight. Do I wait 14 days from tomorrow or 14 days from the 2nd treatment before consuming eggs from them again? Also, how do I dispose of the discarded worms? Is the larvae still active in these droppings even though the adults are dead? Do I burn it? Bag it? Clorox the "bed rest" cage?

Thank you!

 

[dawg53]

Give all your birds a "pea" size amount of the safeguard equine paste wormer. Repeat dosing them again in 10 days. Since you already used wazine for your rooster, wait 10 days and give him a "pea" size amount of the safeguard equine paste. There's a 14 day withdrawal period after the last worming. Toss the eggs in the garbage. Once worms are excreted, they are either dead or dying. Worms cannot survive outside the host. Worm eggs will be on or in the soil. I recommend that you set up a regular worming schedule, perhaps once every 6-7 months worm all your birds.

 

[HenOnTheHill]

Give all your birds a "pea" size amount of the safeguard equine paste wormer. Repeat dosing them again in 10 days. Since you already used wazine for your rooster, wait 10 days and give him a "pea" size amount of the safeguard equine paste. There's a 14 day withdrawal period after the last worming. Toss the eggs in the garbage. Once worms are excreted, they are either dead or dying. Worms cannot survive outside the host. Worm eggs will be on or in the soil. I recommend that you set up a regular worming schedule, perhaps once every 6-7 months worm all your birds.

What are the advantages of the Safeguard over the Wazine that I first used (if any)? Since I already opened the bottle, wouldn't it be just as good to use this to treat the rest of the flock? I only have 13 other birds, and all are the same age (9-10 months). It is not that I am opposed to using the Safeguard, I am just curious and trying to learn the ins and outs of all of this stuff. Plus I don't want the bottle I opened to go to waste! Is this a better wormer to use as a preventative?

I also have two dogs that accompany me to the coop each day, as well as a cat who thinks she is a dog. Would you recommend treating them as well (with the Safeguard, not Wazine). The dogs are both terrier crosses (8-14 lbs) and the cat is approximately 9 lbs.

Lastly, is it ok to scramble the eggs and feed them back to the birds (read this somewhere) during the two week wait period?

Thanks in advance for your help!