SO. MUCH. MUD. Thinking of putting a metal roof on run....

[ColoradoPip]

Not just the rafters. The wall construction of the run was not designed to carry a lot of load. The spacing between studs is not sufficient to support the top plate with rafters and roofing with a high live load. If the spacing is maintained then the top plate needs a beam and the 2x4's need to be doubled up. And the load needs to be carried to firm ground that will not heave during the winter freeze/thaw cycle. That means footers dug to below the area frost depth. The OP is in Southern NY. I am in Southern NY. My code depth is 42".
The bare minimum pitch for solid metal roof 2/12. More is better as it will hasten the drainage of rain and snow from the roof.

Excellent points! I hadn't even looked at the walls or ground posts. Now I understand why you said 2/12...it's for a solid sheet! Everything I've been reading has been for the ~3-4' wide sheets which overlap, and everything says 4/12. So many variables!!

 

[BBHF1775]

Welcome to BYC!
A flat roof won't drain. You would want at least a 2/12 pitch.
You will have more snow load than the walls of your run can support as currently framed. Everything would need to be beefed up.

Thanks! We are planning to add a top plate. The black rafters currently in place are more decorative and just hold the hardware cloth up so we'll remove and add sturdy cross beams.

 

[BBHF1775]

What are the dimensions of the run? 4/12 pitch minimum so you don't have to worry about extra butyl taping of seams (water will find its way in). Make sure you put rigid foam insulation or at least plywood down before the steel to mitigate condensation at certain temps and humidity levels. Frame needs to be beefed up with some 4x4s and top/crown plates and I'd use 2x6 rafters with a ridge beam and collar ties. Make sure to have eave overhang all the way around at least a foot.

Great recommendations! as I mentioned a bit earlier, the black rafters will go and we'll add in 2x6 rafters and a new top plate, probably double up alternating wall studs as well. Do we really need to add plywood and insulation if it's a structure open to the weather? That's a lot of load...

 

[BBHF1775]

Welcome to BYC!
A flat roof won't drain. You would want at least a 2/12 pitch.
You will have more snow load than the walls of your run can support as currently framed. Everything would need to be beefed up.

Thanks for the welcome, can't believe so many nice suggestions to this little post. We def need to do some beefing up of the structure. Appreciate your advice!

 

[BBHF1775]

Not just the rafters. The wall construction of the run was not designed to carry a lot of load. The spacing between studs is not sufficient to support the top plate with rafters and roofing with a high live load. If the spacing is maintained then the top plate needs a beam and the 2x4's need to be doubled up. And the load needs to be carried to firm ground that will not heave during the winter freeze/thaw cycle. That means footers dug to below the area frost depth. The OP is in Southern NY. I am in Southern NY. My code depth is 42".
The bare minimum pitch for solid metal roof 2/12. More is better as it will hasten the drainage of rain and snow from the roof.

Wow, you know your stuff. We do have footings but not to 42". After two winters there does't seem to be any heaving but I'll mention it to "the team" (lol me and my husband). Not sure we'll dig it up and redo it until the whole structure needs a major overhaul. We put in a serious amount of drainage around whole perimeter of structure but apparently my expectations were too high!

 

[BBHF1775]

Listen to @DobieLover about framing.

Meanwhile a good load of wood chippings
(from a tree trimmer or large untreated mulch)
would help with the mud,
after you take care of trenching to drain any standing water.

Pics of current conditions might help us help you.

Oh, and.....Welcome to BYC! @BBHF1775
Here's how to add your general geographical location to your profile.
It's easy to do, (laptop version shown), then it's always there!
View attachment 2023866

Thanks for this technical guide for BYC! It never occurred to me to look at any of the settings, I'll do it today.
The run itself I 12x40 or so. We put in drain tile when we first put up the run. After a winter & spring of mud we dug everything up and put down double the amount drainage and I'm still losing my mind. I'm going to call around for wood chips, they don't just get soggy as wood shavings will do?

 

[BBHF1775]

And a huge thank you to everyone who responded, it's truly a warm welcome to BYC.

I guess I should introduce ourselves, we are in Southern NY state and have a variety of chickens, runner ducks, welsh harlequin ducks and 2 Sebastopol geese, plus the other critters human and otherwise that live in the house. Two springs ago, I walked into a feed store in early march and brought home 6 chicks and 3 ducklings. We did not have a coop or anything close to it but the next weekend my husband ordered up an excavator and, with the help of our son, put up a coop & run. Since then, we doubled the size of the run and added some small duck coops. We're planning to sell off the small coops and build a second larger chicken coop this spring at the other end of the run so we can have storage and an isolation/new chicken area and give the chickens a bigger space. The ducks and geese crashed their slumber party this winter and they've made it clear they're staying... Stay tuned, I'm sure I'll be back for more of you kind suggestions!

 

[DobieLover]

And a huge thank you to everyone who responded, it's truly a warm welcome to BYC.

I guess I should introduce ourselves, we are in Southern NY state and have a variety of chickens, runner ducks, welsh harlequin ducks and 2 Sebastopol geese, plus the other critters human and otherwise that live in the house. Two springs ago, I walked into a feed store in early march and brought home 6 chicks and 3 ducklings. We did not have a coop or anything close to it but the next weekend my husband ordered up an excavator and, with the help of our son, put up a coop & run. Since then, we doubled the size of the run and added some small duck coops. We're planning to sell off the small coops and build a second larger chicken coop this spring at the other end of the run so we can have storage and an isolation/new chicken area and give the chickens a bigger space. The ducks and geese crashed their slumber party this winter and they've made it clear they're staying... Stay tuned, I'm sure I'll be back for more of you kind suggestions!

View attachment 2023974

Cool set up! You should formally introduce yourself in the New Member Introduction forum.
Where in Southern NY are you?

 

[BBHF1775]

Putting a roof on the run is a good idea if it’s not to large to be affordable. In my area it rains 50” within a six month period. It tends to rain in all directions simultaneously so even places under cover get soaked. I control mud by constantly adding wood chips to the run and walkways. I get them for free because the arborists have more than they can get rid of. As luck would have it, hundred foot trees around here are a weed.

I see you're in Oregon so yes, 100' trees are weeds! ps Go ducks!

 

[BBHF1775]

Cool set up! You should formally introduce yourself in the New Member Introduction forum.
Where in Southern NY are you?

I'll do that, I didn't know that was a thing I could do. We're in Northern Westchester/Southern Putnam county, where are you?