I am so surprised by how inventive everything in this thread is. I actually stumbled here by way of google while looking for some soap making tips(don't tell anyone I don't have chickens!).
long story short, I'm a cook at a hotel in hawaii and because of my own frugality(I hate seeing waste) I ended up with some of my hotels excess bacon fat. 2 gallons to be precise! the way I collected it, there is no particles of meat or excess liquid. it is by all accounts 100% bacon-y tallow goodness. so I thought I'd make soap with it
I'm doing everything cold process and my 3 basic recipes are:
bacon fat
water
NaOH
bacon fat
avocado oil
strong black tea(or earl grey)
honey
NaOH
bacon fat
avocado oil
water(brewed with cracked black peppercorns)
NaOH
lavender buds(I know they're going to be brown)
I just had a few questions that I couldn't seem to find anywhere that I was hoping someone could help me with? I did a ton of research and read numerous threads about soap but I couldn't seem to find answers to all my questions. :\ so I'm building my own soap mold from wood. I have the dimensions all worked out fine but I seem to find varying opinions on if I need a lid. I'm not using any essential oils or fragrances(the big issue with a lid and the heat?) so what other purpose does a lid have? does it speed up or is it required in the saponification process?
one recipe is just bacon fat for the novelty of "pure bacon fat soap" but the other two recipes I have will have about 2 ounces each of avocado oil to help balance the tallow from being too hard/not lathering/not being so benficial for the skin. will that work okay or should I really be mixing in other oils like castor, olive, or coconut?
I'm using honey in one recipe as I'm assuming the extra sugar will help the overall feel of the soap(sugar helps soap bubbles keep their shape). for each ounce of honey I'm removing a 1/2 ounce of liquid because of honeys moisture content. has anyone else found this adjustment to be correct?
honey and tea are going into one recipe, I know the tea will darken the bar of soap slightly(no actual leaves are going in), but does anyone know how well natural smells like tea might last in a bar of soap?
superfatting. my understanding was that the more superfatting, the softer and less harsh the bar will be. so I should superfat the all tallow recipe to 8% to create a softer bar? and because I've adjusted to a softer oil, I can keep the other two recipes with avocado oil to a standard 4-5%? or should I adjust it higher?
on most pages I see it seems that most CP soap is molded and set to harden for around 36-48 hours or until it cools down from the process. I did see someone mention on this thread that they actually freeze it? does that help? I also see everyone cutting it then letting it cure the necessary time period. would it help to keep it in one block to cure? or is there a reason to cut it after it sets as opposed to trying let it cure(and I assume harden).
and I didn't see too many people posting their soap with their own stamp on it but I was planning to stamp mine with an image of a butchers diagram of a pig and all the main primal cuts. does anyone have experience doing this? I wasn't sure if I should stamp after I unmold and cut or if I should wait for the soap to completely cure before stamping?
any help is super appreciated!
