Long-time lurker. Coop is too far from a power source and been looking for years for a way to automate the watering thing here in Kentucky. Here is my effort (I will edit this post with updates as able). Descriptions are below each photo.
Finished product hanging in the coop.
5 gallon bucket nipple waterer wrapped in reflectix insulation. Then expanding foam sprayed into void between bucket and reflectix to fill.
Wired in a thermostatic switch (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0026S6WGK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) which will turn on at 35 degrees and off at 45 so that the element only runs at freezing temperatures. Silicone caulked in place.
Inside view. Heating element shown (https://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-Silicone-Flexible-Heating-60MM/dp/B010B2A3KI/ref=sr_1_13_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1519325682&sr=8-13&keywords=Yongse). 10-watt, submersible, silicone, 12-volt. Is certainly undersized for the roughly 4 gallons that this bucket fits (2.5ish watts to heat a gallon 1 degree in an hour, yeah?) but maybe will be just enough with the insulation and Kentucky's varied weather. Also shows the toilet fill valve that I installed to keep the waterer full automatically in nice weather.
Used one of the nipples to route the wires for the submersible silicone heating element. Sealed with silicone caulk. Can see the toilet fill valve protruding from the center.
Nipple side shown with expanding foam finished. Wrapping foam and such with aluminum tape to hopefully prevent any pecking. I know the nipples can freeze... kind of hoping the rim of insulation and the proximity of the heating element will minimize the risk. We rarely have more than a few days in a row with temps low enough to keep water inside the coop frozen. Crossing fingers
Cap side shown with 2 pieces of 2-inch foam insulation cut out and placed within. Secured with aluminum tape.
Had good success with copper in standing water to prevent algae growth. Placed inside the waterer (pennies, some copper pipe pieces).
The battery box and wiring outside that wall. Automatic door is shown, wired to the same solar setup.
The solar setup is a 100-watt panel from amazon wired into a 20 amp charge controller from hqst in a battery box (both also found on amazon). Battery is a 35 amp hour sealed lead acid battery from Harbor Freight ($50ish with the 20% off coupon). This is wired into an automatic coop door and the waterer. By my estimates, it should be able to run the element for a full 24 hours and beyond assuming no sunlight. Will be very easy to add battery capacity to it if the lack of sunlight causes issues, but the panel puts out roughly 8+amps, so accounting for efficiency loss, probably a good 6 amps with some sun (so 6 hours of sunlight should fully charge the battery from empty).
Finished product hanging in the coop.
5 gallon bucket nipple waterer wrapped in reflectix insulation. Then expanding foam sprayed into void between bucket and reflectix to fill.
Wired in a thermostatic switch (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0026S6WGK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) which will turn on at 35 degrees and off at 45 so that the element only runs at freezing temperatures. Silicone caulked in place.
Inside view. Heating element shown (https://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-Silicone-Flexible-Heating-60MM/dp/B010B2A3KI/ref=sr_1_13_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1519325682&sr=8-13&keywords=Yongse). 10-watt, submersible, silicone, 12-volt. Is certainly undersized for the roughly 4 gallons that this bucket fits (2.5ish watts to heat a gallon 1 degree in an hour, yeah?) but maybe will be just enough with the insulation and Kentucky's varied weather. Also shows the toilet fill valve that I installed to keep the waterer full automatically in nice weather.
Used one of the nipples to route the wires for the submersible silicone heating element. Sealed with silicone caulk. Can see the toilet fill valve protruding from the center.
Nipple side shown with expanding foam finished. Wrapping foam and such with aluminum tape to hopefully prevent any pecking. I know the nipples can freeze... kind of hoping the rim of insulation and the proximity of the heating element will minimize the risk. We rarely have more than a few days in a row with temps low enough to keep water inside the coop frozen. Crossing fingers
Cap side shown with 2 pieces of 2-inch foam insulation cut out and placed within. Secured with aluminum tape.
Had good success with copper in standing water to prevent algae growth. Placed inside the waterer (pennies, some copper pipe pieces).
The battery box and wiring outside that wall. Automatic door is shown, wired to the same solar setup.
The solar setup is a 100-watt panel from amazon wired into a 20 amp charge controller from hqst in a battery box (both also found on amazon). Battery is a 35 amp hour sealed lead acid battery from Harbor Freight ($50ish with the 20% off coupon). This is wired into an automatic coop door and the waterer. By my estimates, it should be able to run the element for a full 24 hours and beyond assuming no sunlight. Will be very easy to add battery capacity to it if the lack of sunlight causes issues, but the panel puts out roughly 8+amps, so accounting for efficiency loss, probably a good 6 amps with some sun (so 6 hours of sunlight should fully charge the battery from empty).
Last edited:
