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Oh really? Gee. I missed that somehow in your posts.
That's going to be a bit of a challenge if you are using a typical 4-sq-ft-apiece type stocking density; also I'm not sure it's a worthwhile goal, since it is actually really EASY to just set out a new thing of liquid water every morning.
I gotta tell you, w/r/t keeping the temp above freezing, I know I live in a somewhat colder climate than you do (our record low has been -30 F since we've lived here; a more typical "one of the coldest nights of the year" would be in the minus teens F), HOWEVER despite a pretty much *ideal* situation for passively heating the coop (15x40' slab-floored building with only ~2-3 dozen chickens in it and 6" stud walls full o' insulation and a heavily insulated drop ceiling, plus a 4x8x8 passive solar heater, and b/c of the low chicken population relative to building size I typically run NO ventilation in wintertime other than two popdoors during the day) IT STILL spends 2-3 months of the winter below freezing in there. Not *much* below freezing, I believe this year the lowest temp was 23 F and that was during the day with popdoors open and a stiff cold wind blowing in... but below freezing nonetheless.
Your coop is not going to have these advantages -- the sheer SIZE of mine, coupled with the slab floor and the double-thick walls. (I am not bragging, I didn't *build* the thing and wouldn't'a bothered if I *had*, it was here as a breeding/boarding kennel when we bought the place
)
So although you can add more collector area than I use, you would have to match it with extreme insulation AND thermal mass in order to have any hope of staying above freezing, and honestly I do not think that is realistic unless you can virtually eliminate ventilation, which you just CAN'T (healthfully) do unless you have super super low stocking densities.
Not trying to rain on your parade, just trying to point out the difficulties you face and suggest having a plan B.
Externally, the collection system itself is a major concern to me--if the drainage system freezes up, that pretty much blows the whole deal. Doesn't matter how warm the distribution and collection system stays if no water can get to it. I agree with you that there will certainly be drippage, so to speak--it's just a matter of whether ice damming will stop it from getting to the catchment system.
The "let it drip into a bucket, then take the bucket into the coop every afternoon" method works great for me, it is pretty foolproof. However, if you cannot do that and must have an inlet *directly into the above-freezing storage system* I fear you may be s.o.l without the availability of electricity. The main problem is that having that open-to-the-outdoors pipe is going to let lotsa cold air into your storage tank and make it require EXTRA-much heating to stay liquid. If it weren't for that, you could just make the collection pipe black and on the sunward side and it would probably be fine most of the time -- but I am skeptical about the effect on the storage barrel with that constant path for heat loss.
Non-insulated roofing sounds like the best bet, allowing heat from the coop to melt things off.
Not if you have no electric power for the coop and want the coop to stay above freezing inside!!
The best way to encourage melting on a metal roof IME, if it is reluctant, is to reach up with a roof-rake (or broom or whatever) and expose however much bare roof as you can. It will heat up and start melting the adjacent areas, which will then melt the areas adjacent to *them*, etc etc.
Remember, we will not actually be at the coop on a daily basis--more like 3 days out of the week.
Oh my, I did not realize that, that is going to be difficult. Will there at least be someone to CHECK them daily? Otherwise I'd be very, very concerned about waterer malfunction and dead chickens. One way to hedge against that is to leave a pan of snow in the coop (when it is below freezing in there, obviously) -- yes, it is not a *great* source of water and increases their feed requirements, but it is valuable as an emergency resource to eliminate risk of death. Doesn't take long at all without water -- most sources say 36 hours ish, obviously I have no firsthand experience of it -- to kill a chicken. Not to mention the whole "the door blew open" "a chicken is being pecked to death" etc type issue.
Good luck,
Pat