Starting a coop build, it is my first build and first chickens so feedback is very welcome

[saysfaa]

Interesting. I called the hardware store that carries it. She said don't use it for wood filler, that it never gets hard like wood filler does. I explained why I wanted it that way; she said it doesn't give structural support but beyond that I should talk to someone more of a woodworking expert.

Turns out, they aren't a typical hardware store. They used to be a window manufacture and now are a distribution warehouse. Orders can be picked up there but they much prefer shipping orders; they don't have a brick and mortar storefront (using different words).

I'm shelving the Sarco. I need to rebuild parts of the window frames more than I need to reglaze the panes, if I use the old windows I have. I'll do wood filler and/caulk for the knots and cracks for this project and maybe experiment later.

 

[saysfaa]

Progress report:
The Blackjack 57 survived about four months of waiting. I "sealed" it with seran wrap and laid the lid on loosely. The consistency seemed the same. I spread it over the threshold of the door and over as much of the sills and floor joists as I could reach. That was a very nasty job as I'm getting to old and decrepit to be flat on my back reaching through a zero to 5" gap under a shed with tar dripping all over. Ended up using my fingers as much as the brush.

The bark is dug out from around the biggest knots and some of the smaller ones. It was very juicy so I don't know how well any patching will do. I tried just wood filler. The next day, I took that out to try wood filler with wood embedded in it - trying buffer the expansion/contraction difference between the filler and the surrounding wood. It was also a nasty job. I'm starting to get a little better at estimating how I can use before it sets up too much. I hope it works (as in doesn't fall out or crack the surrounding wood. I'm not much better at getting it into the hole neatly. It does sand nice the next day.

I started caulking. I still don't know whether to caulk all the exterior joints or just the cracks. I didn't get very far when rain came.

Primer is on almost all the exterior.

I learned how to use the skill saw this week trying to make the nest boxes. I was still doing, redoing, re-redoing etc the platform and crates and cover over the crates when Coco laid an egg on top of the platform while the crates were off it. If she is happy with it open like that then so am I. At least until everything around the place is ready for winter.

The shed settled back enough that the north door doesn't open. Again. But it took longer this time so maybe it is adjusting a little. Dh wants to let be where it wants, and just rehang the door. I don't. I think if the north door doesn't take the pressure, then it will settle further and the south door won't work. The south door HAS to work. I'm thinking of using a 4x4 beside where the north door sticks to take the weight instead of the door - until spring anyway. I have the 4x4 from a fence we took out. I would rather not cut so am still trying to come up with a better option.

 

[saysfaa]

Most of the patching is done on the walls. I learned how to do it to some degree but still not very well. Well enough that I dug out a few more knots. Two coats of primer are on all but the last few patch places.

There was an estate sale down the street and I found an 8' stair rail in the wood scrap barrel. We cut a groove in the bottom and fit it over the front edge of the poop board. Then screwed it down. A short piece of stair rail that I found in the 75% off section at Home Depot is almost big enough for both open sides of the nest box platform.

I'm very happy with how they turned out. Their feet look much more comfortable. I think I will need to trim their nails soon. They have a cement block to scratch but they don't scratch it enough.

I also added oyster shells. They can be seen in the corner of one of the pictures. I tried a few types of containers for that and settled on a stainless steel dog dish set into sand/pebbles in a crock. The dog dish alone was too light, the crock alone was too big, the bottle upended over a dish didn't let the oyster shell out; I tried several bottles and several dishes.

 

[3KillerBs]

I also added oyster shells. They can be seen in the corner of one of the pictures. I tried a few types of containers for that and settled on a stainless steel dog dish set into sand/pebbles in a crock. The dog dish alone was too light, the crock alone was too big, the bottle upended over a dish didn't let the oyster shell out; I tried several bottles and several dishes.

This is the calcium feeder I made:

https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/feeders-and-scoops-from-recycled-bottles.76244/

 

[saysfaa]

I chisled knots out until I couldn't wait any longer to paint. I couldn't expect a long enough stretch of warm enough weather.

The knot holes were filled combinations of with wood chips, backer rod, and pieces of wood carved to fit. Then the cracks filled with two-part wood filler. I hop that will keep the different expansion rates from causing problems.

Then two or three coats of primer over the patches, one more coat of primer over the whole exterior, and the finishe coat of Barn Paint from Home Depot which is a combination primer and top coat.

Their computer doesn't allow them to add color to it. But two guys there are willing to take color formula we got last year for our deck and add one gallon's worth to my five gallon pail of Barn Paint. That was too light, so they did it again. I had between three and four gallons left in the pail so it is a lighter shade of gray than the deck and steps of the house. I wanted that anyway. First, because I want the shed to draw as little notice as possible and our deck has fairly dark (dramatic?) color. And partly because I'm using the different base so it wouldn't exactly match anyway. Better to be obviously intensionally different than to look like you tried to match and missed.

I will never be able to match the color in barn paint. I might be able to in another paint via their color match system.

 

[saysfaa]

Note for future build, about pitch of roof important for speed of air flow and mixing of air https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/another-ventilation-question.1493836/#post-24918009

 

[saysfaa]

Solved blocking the eave vents for winter. Pool noodles. Some leak a little, I think backer rod will take care of that. They wedged in almost tight on their own but I wasn't sure they couldn't be blown out. Redesigning the hardware cloth on the outside solved that. The nails from the shingles hold them in on the inside. I'll probably add some shims just for peace of mind.

For those who may not have read (or forgot) earlier posts - they still have lots of ventilation. Twenty-four square feet for five hens after the eaves and windows are closed off.

Mocha celebrated by laying her first egg, . Now all five are laying.

 

[aart]

Solved blocking the eave vents for winter.

Why would you block the vents?
They need ventilation in winter too.

 

[saysfaa]

Mostly to keep most of the snow out. I don't think it will be dry enough with the snow drifting in there.

Originally, I thought I would be closing them to keep drafts out but I never see feathers being ruffled. I feel a lot of airflow but most of it is above them unless they are on the roost. When they are on the roost, most of the airflow is either above them or a foot or more in front of them.

They will still have at least 24 square feet of ventilation. That should be enough for five.

At the moment, I've only closed the eaves on the north side. They still have the 24' from the open side plus 11' from the windows plus 5' from the eaves on the south side. Possibly some from the ridge vent in addition.

 

[aart]

Mostly to keep most of the snow out.

Ah, yes....I use bulk furnace filter to block snow and slow down winds.
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/ventilation-baffling.75434/