suddenly aggresive bunny

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Its not cage aggression i can reach right in and do what ever i want and she doesnt care :/ She must have been in a bad mood
 
well, in my experience I have to agree with Shadow rabbit, my does are sweeter than pie if they aren't about to kindle, but my bucks are aggressive
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I've had her for About a week and a half she might have been with males before I got her lol but I don't have any males
 
:,( she did t again! she has suddenly become protective of her food! What do i do!? I held her head down for a couple seconds (not hard) and then pet her when she was submissive... am i doing it right?
 
:,( she did t again! she has suddenly become protective of her food! What do i do!? I held her head down for a couple seconds (not hard) and then pet her when she was submissive... am i doing it right?

You are doing it. Just make sure you tell her no. This is not something to worry about, if she is only biting for food. Some rabbits get excited and protective of their food. My one rabbit is nice, but when I feed her she lunges at my hand. There is nothing you can do about this, but as long as she isn't biting all the time, I don't think it's too much of a concern. If it helps, you can pick her up while you are feeding you. I actually hold my one rabbit down while I feed her, and she now airs on the other side of the cage, until I am done filling the bowl.
 
Biting/lunging/grunting etc over husbandry practices such as changing food point to cage aggression. Sometimes it is limited to things like changing food, but sometimes worsens if not addressed. Fairly common for her age and especially gender. There are many different methods you can use, including mixing different methods. Most will take time, and not letting this behavior become ingrained will be very helpful. She very well may have displayed cage aggression at the breeder or previous owner you recently got her fom. Rabbits will often temporarily halt cage aggression after a move, until they feel settled into their new territory. Some things to try:
-make sure she gets plenty of time outside of the cage
-feed her in different locations, and start feeding especially special treats out of your hand. Don't always feed her in the bowl in her cage basically, and work to make it where she clearly associates you with food.
-some find a cage that opens at the top helps with cage aggression. Not always though.
- some pin the rabbit to the ground as they perform husbandry routines, as you have described
-some chose to simply shift the rabbit to a pen, or choose that time for them to play outside the cage while cleaning, changing food, etc.
-some distract the rabbit with something they adore such as a special treat
-some wrap their hands so that bites are not felt, and let their rabbit go to town biting them. The rabbit usually gives up after a while since the desired reaction (hand out of their space) does not occur. Remember that flinching away from a bite reinforces the behavior.

Things like you reaching in to pull her from the cage, then placing her by a treat or releasing her for play time help rabbits associate you in their cage with good things.
 
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I have worked in a large pet shop for many years and I came to realise I don't think rabbits make very good pets at all, compared to the other animals - especially for people wanting a cuddly, carry about pet.

I have lost count of the times I have been badly scratched by a bad tempered bunny! They are all so cute when they are young, but once the hormones kick in they change.

The FEMALES are the worst in this respect. They become very ill tempered and territorial and will lunge and claw at a person or rabbit entering their space. This is usually when they are coming into 'heat' and ready to breed, or just after.

The males are more friendly with people.....too friendly. When they like you they will run around you and then spray you with smelly urine! They will also spray around their hutch and run......making it very stinky. The males will fight badly with any other male and often cause serious injury if allowed to do so.

Most people who try to keep 2 rabbits of together will end up having to separate them when they mature as they start fighting - or end up with lots of rabbits if they are opposite sexes.

They are difficult for children to handle properly and can get injured if they are not held properly and kick or are dropped.

People recommend them now to keep in the home. But they will chew wires, carpet, walls and furniture.

If you get the rabbit neutered then it will reduce the aggressive behaviour greatly and make they a much better pet. It will also prevent them from getting ovarian cancer (females) in later life. If you don't then this is the disease most of the rabbits will die of in the end.

My own rabbit was very nasty in her hutch, but once outside she was very friendly. Like most rabbits she would not allow anyone to pick her up and hold her for any length of time, but was very happy to sit next to me and let me pet her.
 
All of my does go though a hormonal period when they are around 4-6 months. It is hormones I would assume. Does can also be very cage aggressive. This is why when breeding you ALWAYS put the doe in the bucks cage. I have never had an ill tempered or cage aggressive buck. If she is only going after the food scoop you can continue to correct her like you are doing, or you can get hopper feeders so that you can fill them from outside the cage. Also a change of scenery, or a different cage can sometimes snap them out of it.
 

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