Swapping hardboiled eggs for fertile eggs?

Heredity can play a big part in whether they hatch early or late. There are lots of other things too that can cause early or late but heredity is real. The hatcheries operate on a schedule. The one that mail chicks to us have to ship at a certain time, any that hatch late aren't going to make it. The big hatcheries that hatch for commercial meat or laying operations are also on a tight schedule. They are not going to keep any that hatch late. If you set up a commercial hatchery that's one of the recommendations, do not keep any in your breeding flock that hatched late. Of course, those hatcheries use incubators, not under broody hens.

My eggs from my mixed flock consistently hatch a full day and sometimes even more early. That's the same whether it is under a broody hen or in my incubator. It is pretty rare, broody or incubator, for me to get many chicks to hatch on the 21st day. They are almost all early. That's been pretty consistent for several years. Heredity is the only thing I can think of to explain that consistency with my eggs hatching, especially the broody hens.

Over the years I have butchered a lot of pullets and hens. Some were laying, some were not. I even butchered a broody hen once. There is a big difference in what a laying hen and one not laying looks like inside. If a hen is laying there are many ova of varying sizes growing to make yolks for eggs. I haven't counted them but I'd guess maybe 10 or 12 in some advanced stage of growing. The plumbing that comprises her internal egg making factory is very visible, soft, and moist. If a hen is not laying her ova are tiny, close to pinhead size, and clustered very tightly. Nothing growing at all. And her internal plumbing is dried up, you almost have top look for it to find it. Very definite physical differences.

That's why I don't believe the stories where someone started their hens laying by feeding them hot pepper of something else and get results in a couple of days. If that happens it is coincidence, those hens had been getting their bodies ready to lay anyway.
 
So I'll definately be marking day 20 then :D. Oh little question about that - is yesterday when I put the eggs under her day one or is today day 1?

There is a big difference in what a laying hen and one not laying looks like inside. If a hen is laying there are many ova of varying sizes growing to make yolks for eggs. I haven't counted them but I'd guess maybe 10 or 12 in some advanced stage of growing. The plumbing that comprises her internal egg making factory is very visible, soft, and moist. If a hen is not laying her ova are tiny, close to pinhead size, and clustered very tightly. Nothing growing at all. And her internal plumbing is dried up, you almost have top look for it to find it. Very definite physical differences.
That is absolutely fascinating!
 
I think i'll carry on as normal then and put the food and water in over night but then open the coop and move them out when I move the over off the front of it.
Chickens don't eat and drink during the dark. Leaving feed is an attractant to pests and predators... in my experience. I collect all feed every night. Rats aren't just freeloading parasite spreaders they also prey on chicks and broody hens. :hmm

She has also bred that they tend not to have tufts on their faces (she only had 2 tufted in the flock) as apparently the tufted ones have very very poor live hatch rates
I believe in the UK non tufted is accepted as Araucana. In my personal opinion yes double tufted genes cause heavy mortaility as double tufted IS lethal to the embryos... but that would be something you know going in to breeding this breed. It is a common understanding. :confused: Maybe tufting is dominant and she can still produce tufted chicks without having both parents be tufted. I'm sure it's a challenge and a genetic adventure! The tufting lethal ness would make me charge more for my chicks but don't think I would breed for chicks without them as to me they are a key feature of the breed that gives it's unique quality. But that's ME. :oops:

For ME if they aren't tufted AND rumpless... meh.. not quality Araucana. But also not my place to judge! :smack

I'm sure she probably does know her stock well, and giving accurate info about her normal hatch day to help you be as successful as you can. It's interesting to see it and that it can even be hereditary, as testified to by ridgerunner! I DO learn something new EVERY day. :pop

Can't wait to see a pic of your mama with her babes! :cool:

For me while mamas are sitting and NOT laying... I feed flock raiser or unmedicated chick starter since they don't need the added calcium from "layer" feed, and the extra nutrients won't hurt but might even be good for them. Well, in reality.. I always feed flock raiser to hens, chicks and rooster... with oyster shell available on the side for layers. It has more protein and less calcium. So it serves my whole flock with one feed instead of many and trying to juggle chickens and feed around since I always have multiple ages and genders. :)
 
Leaving feed is an attractant to pests and predators... in my experience. I collect all feed every night. Rats aren't just freeloading parasite spreaders they also prey on chicks and broody hens. :hmm
I did know that and I'm absolutely horrified by rodents of all sorts but I must admit I've got lazy as there has been no sign of them since I got the chickens so I have never got in the habit of removing it. For the main run / chickens I have a DIY PVC feeder that I close with a cap every night for this reason.
It is a common understanding. :confused:
Ahhh see I didn't know that (total newbie) - she may have just been telling me about it being like that and I slightly misunderstood - I dont' understand everything when I'm having a conversation in French (I always get the drift and usually all the content but sometimes get a little muddled - especially with new people that I am not used to thier accents
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).

For ME if they aren't tufted AND rumpless... meh.. not quality Araucana. But also not my place to judge! :smack
Fair enough - I'm pretty sure they were all rumpless. Hopefully they are not totally rubbish (mind you if you don't tell me they are and they are nice and lay me lovely blue eggs I won't know or care :lau).

I always feed flock raiser to hens, chicks and rooster... with oyster shell available on the side for layers. It has more protein and less calcium.
Because my big girls have only just started laying in the last week I haven't yet changed over to layer (and hadnt' yet decided if I want to as I have read on here that lots keep them on an all flock with calcium free choice) and they all have separate fancy grit with vitamins in it and oyster shell. The pellets are actually marked for ummmmm can't remember but not chickens but the guy at the store recommended them for my girls because of the protein (I think it is 21 or 22%). I'm not sure if this is too high to keep them all on long term (although I did read on a silkie thread on here that they do really well on higher protein foods)? And if this is good for Hermione (the broody) or if I should get something else?
 
So I'll definately be marking day 20 then :D. Oh little question about that - is yesterday when I put the eggs under her day one or is today day 1?

An egg does not have a day's worth of development 2 seconds or two minutes after it goes under a broody hen or into an incubator. It takes 24 hours for it to have a day's worth of development. So you say "1" the day after you put them in the incubator or under a broody hen. An easy way to check your counting is that the day of the week they go in is the day of the week the 21 days is up. If you start them on a Friday the 21 days is up on a Friday.
 
The pellets are actually marked for ummmmm can't remember but not chickens but the guy at the store recommended them for my girls because of the protein (I think it is 21 or 22%)
It's probaby better if it's formulated for fowl verses horses or pigs or even the "general" livestock feed. But you can work with whatever. Always get a second opinion on anything you are told at the feed store.

if you don't tell me they are and they are nice and lay me lovely blue eggs I won't know or care :lau
:thumbsup
 
It's probaby better if it's formulated for fowl verses horses or pigs or even the "general" livestock feed. But you can work with whatever. Always get a second opinion on anything you are told at the feed store.
Sorry yes it is some sort of fowl, it was right next to the chicken feed on the shelf, I'll go see if I kept an empty bag....... nope can't find one. I think it was for turkeys and pheasants and there were other things as well on the packet, guinea fowl maybe. Is that too high protien to keep them on?
 
Sorry yes it is some sort of fowl, it was right next to the chicken feed on the shelf, I'll go see if I kept an empty bag....... nope can't find one. I think it was for turkeys and pheasants and there were other things as well on the packet, guinea fowl maybe. Is that too high protien to keep them on?
That is not too high of protein according to my research and about where I like to keep it most the time..

In chicken 22% protein has been shown to give better hatch rates than 16%. To me that says more nutrition inside the eggs my family eats. I am one of those who always uses flock raiser with oyster shell on the side and never switch. I have seen my girls come out of molt much faster than previous years since I switched.
 
A hens temperature raised a few degrees when she goes broody. That's why dipping a hen in cool water stops them... well at least for a while... I though that broody hens shake (and flap) to cool themselves off.

Wondering what the controversy is about marking fertile eggs? My hens go to great lengths to lay their eggs under the broody. Some nights we had 10 newly laid eggs! After a few days the fertile eggs do get buffed shiny by the hens feathers but I couldn't have kept the 6 fertile eggs under the hen if they weren't marked. I used a pencil on the more pointed end.
 

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