Swedish Flower Hen Thread

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MB

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I believe I've been infected!

My big, black/white girl Greta is a mother again! She was paired with one of Mace's largest sons who is also black-based. I knew both were BIG birds, but I never expected to get a Rottweiler for a chick! (LOL!)













My pullet Sophia brooded and hatched 4 out of 5 eggs... all 5 would have hatched but my 11-year-old dropped one of the eggs about 4 days before it was due to hatch.
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That one was a black also with lots of yellow.
What a cutie! And Sophia is pretty too!
 
So I'm wanting expert SFH advice; I'm deciding which 2 boys to keep of the 4 I've been growing out.

Here are a few pics:

While the SFH is a landrace breed, keep in mind that landrace does not mean there was no human intervention. The SFH was not a bird that developed living in the wild (like the Sumatra) but a breed that developed on farms throughout Skane. Just as you and I do, those farmers kept their favorite birds and ate the cockerels they weren't as enamored with. Because these birds were used for both meat and eggs, chances are the larger cockerels were kept for breeding as the extra male offspring of those birds would yield more meat.

Conformation plays a BIG role in the health of a bird. Breeding a cockerel with a low-set, too-high set or pinched/narrow tail will produce a generation of pullets that have egg-laying issues. Look for boys with a well-set tail that has a wide spread to it. His pullets will be able to lay bigger eggs for a longer time.

Look for boys who appear wider than the others when looking at them from above. From the side, look for the boys with the deepest, roundest chests. These traits not only produce cockerels with a higher meat yield, but are less prone to heart, digestive and respiratory issues because there is adequate space inside the ribcage for healthy organs.

Look for birds who do not have split wing. (You can Google images of this negative trait where the first primary feather is absent or set too far from the secondary feathers.) This trait can mean that free-range birds have less ability to escape from predators and less "parachute" when jumping from a high perch (which could result in leg injuries).

And if you or your son think you'd ever like to show your Swedes (they can be entered in many shows in the Rare Breeds group), look for birds without comb sprigs, that have plenty of flowering and with good personalities.

Trust me - even the Vikings and country farmers in Skane put plenty of thought into what birds they kept and what birds they consumed at a young age. Their livestock were pivotal to their existence, and they knew well the signs of the healthiest birds that would both lay well and produce the best meat.

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While the SFH is a landrace breed, keep in mind that landrace does not mean there was no human intervention. The SFH was not a bird that developed living in the wild (like the Sumatra) but a breed that developed on farms throughout Skane. Just as you and I do, those farmers kept their favorite birds and ate the cockerels they weren't as enamored with. Because these birds were used for both meat and eggs, chances are the larger cockerels were kept for breeding as the extra male offspring of those birds would yield more meat.

Conformation plays a BIG role in the health of a bird. Breeding a cockerel with a low-set, too-high set or pinched/narrow tail will produce a generation of pullets that have egg-laying issues. Look for boys with a well-set tail that has a wide spread to it. His pullets will be able to lay bigger eggs for a longer time.

Look for boys who appear wider than the others when looking at them from above. From the side, look for the boys with the deepest, roundest chests. These traits not only produce cockerels with a higher meat yield, but are less prone to heart, digestive and respiratory issues because there is adequate space inside the ribcage for healthy organs.

Look for birds who do not have split wing. (You can Google images of this negative trait where the first primary feather is absent or set too far from the secondary feathers.) This trait can mean that free-range birds have less ability to escape from predators and less "parachute" when jumping from a high perch (which could result in leg injuries).

And if you or your son think you'd ever like to show your Swedes (they can be entered in many shows in the Rare Breeds group), look for birds without comb sprigs, that have plenty of flowering and with good personalities.

Trust me - even the Vikings and country farmers in Skane put plenty of thought into what birds they kept and what birds they consumed at a young age. Their livestock were pivotal to their existence, and they knew well the signs of the healthiest birds that would both lay well and produce the best meat.

:D  

I like your response a lot. I really failed to think about cockerel shape and laying qualities of future hens. I did consider size and growing out of cockerels.

It's unfortunate that my sons favorite is the smallest with the least desirable shape. Good temperament tho; healthy fear of humans, seems to look out for girls. Since he does a lot of the work involved in taking care of the chicks I don't put up a fight ;)

Thank you for the educated feedback. I definitely looked at the boys differently this morning.
 
First candling on my 15 German-imported SFH-hatching eggs: not sure if I should be happy or disappointed. Had to toss 9 eggs (lots of loose air cells without development). 5 seem to be doing good, 1 I´m not sure if it has already quit or not. I´d be really happy if I get at least 3 out of the bunch.

Bulldogma- your chicks are adorable. Thank you also for the good response above- I´m always learning from you.
 
I like your response a lot. I really failed to think about cockerel shape and laying qualities of future hens. I did consider size and growing out of cockerels.

It's unfortunate that my sons favorite is the smallest with the least desirable shape. Good temperament tho; healthy fear of humans, seems to look out for girls. Since he does a lot of the work involved in taking care of the chicks I don't put up a fight
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Thank you for the educated feedback. I definitely looked at the boys differently this morning.
LOL - I have a tendency to fall in love with some of the birds that end up being badly put-together and keeping them as pets with my eating egg flock. Such is life! The high quality boys go to the breeding pens.

First candling on my 15 German-imported SFH-hatching eggs: not sure if I should be happy or disappointed. Had to toss 9 eggs (lots of loose air cells without development). 5 seem to be doing good, 1 I´m not sure if it has already quit or not. I´d be really happy if I get at least 3 out of the bunch.

Bulldogma- your chicks are adorable. Thank you also for the good response above- I´m always learning from you.
I'm sorry not as many of your eggs are developing as one could have hoped. I hope the rest will hatch into lovely, healthy chicks!
 
So I stopped using the medicated feed and havn't lost a single SFH
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There is a major caveat - Since I've stopped using the medicated feed I've lost literally dozens of other breeds of chicks to Cocci.

Figuring out the problem is so exciting. The Swedes simply cannot have medicated feed!

Evidently the SFH are a little less susceptible to Cocci than other breeds. I can't treat the brooder with Corrid for long enough to stop the Cocci outbreak without seeing the Swedes start to suffer. You know the look, hanging around not eating... So I just can't win. Either treat the brooder and save the other chicks while losing the Swedes or don't treat the brooder and the Swedes will flourish.
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I just lost some very expensive chicks to Cocci. The Swedes are running around like mini-dozers.

My husband was so brilliant with his brooder solution but we are starting to think that we need separate brooders so the other chicks can have their needs met too.

Yes we use deep litter method. It was the original method but then we moved the brooder and started using sand which we thought was encouraging Cocci so we went back to the deep litter method. I know I'm not alone in the Cocci issue. Here in the Central Valley of CA we are all dealing with it - forever. Cocci is in the soil and we know it so have to deal accordingly. This years Cocci outbreak has been particularly fatal in many areas.

I did read about liquid Echinacea in the water as recommended by a vet. I've started doing that but it isn't enough to make the others strong enough to withstand the Cocci.
 
@CackleJoy

I had read in the old deep litter article that they found that spraying litter with a weak ammonia solution kept the cocci from developing.

I say that not to encourage you to spray your litter w/ammonia! But the point they were making was that a little ammonia in the litter is actually a good thing to help keep cocci down and may be one reason that taking some older litter from the adult house may help keep the cocci down as it would have a bit of ammonia in it.

I know that we all balk at ammonia as it can be deadly under non-ventilated, close situations in which it is too concentrated. But apparently a small amount can be a health protecting thing in the case of cocci. I would never have litter in which you can walk into a chicken house and smell the ammonia! But I think learning to smell and discern when there's "just enough" may be a helpful skill.

Quote: http://www.plamondon.com/faq_deep_litter.html With this:
Quote:
 
Here's an updated photo of my young girls - 19 weeks.




Didn't get a lot of photos today...but did get one of the black/w band who is behind in the group photo.


Black w/Band
 
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