Take 5 minutes to outline your "management"

RachaelLJ

In the Brooder
7 Years
Aug 24, 2012
26
0
22
Newton, Alabama
We are new to keeping chickens. I did work on a small farm for about 2 years where I learned some things. My grandfather also has kept chickens for as long as I can remember. The way he does it and the way my employer did it were completely different. They way that I do things now is somewhere in between, I guess. I am just wanting to hear about how a few other people do things to get ideas and learn from. I will outline the methods my employer used, the way my grandfather does things, and the way we've been doing things. I'd like to get a quick outline from you in a similar format (plus any other information you feel is pertinent), and would prefer to hear things different from what I already know. Be sure and let me know what predators you have lurking about, what your climate is like, and what your area is like (wooded, pasture, etc.).

Previous employer (small "organic" farm - not certified):

flock size -
around 60, about 10% roosters

breed(s) -
many, Russian Orloffs, Mottled Javas, Silkies, Delawares, Leghorns, Rhode Island Reds, various other bantams, dual purpose, ornamentals & layers (also Guineas)

coop & run -
large, walk in with 6 separated "stalls" with dirt floors covered by shavings, each stall having two roost perches about 6' long with metal dropping tray underneath, each stall with 3 nesting boxes which were filled with straw, all stalls with their own pop door leading to separate enclosed areas, but the enclosed areas were usually opened up to connect to one large run, half grassy, half dust bathing area, fan on inside coop during day if warm weather (Guineas were free range)

climate -
warm almost year round, hardly a frost in winter. Sometimes long periods of rainy/mucky weather. almost never snow, and if snow, not enough to leave a blanket on ground.

terrain -
open pasture land with lots of fencing/small buildings/a few ponds with some woods on back of property

predators -
foxes (though coop/run were very fox proof they were on the property) and snakes (would get in stalls eating mice/eggs)

feed -
organic layers pellets always available, various organic supplements, organic cayenne pepper added to feed, scratch in the morning, scraps in the evening, free choice organic oyster shell, fed whole eggs back to them, plus any bugs they might find (not many in their run) apple cider vinegar in water

hatching -
isolated desired parents for about 3 weeks in spring, collected hen's eggs and put them under a good broody silkie (or the hen, if broody), put chicks under light for first week or so (hot here year round except winter) then put them back in with mother hen or sometimes skipped the light and let mother sit on them, waited until pullets to introduce to rest of flock

pest control -
some kind of organic bug spray that she also used in the gardens, frequently replacing shavings in the stalls, for mice they flooded them out once a year by sticking a garden hose in their holes and when they came out killed them with a mallet

cleaning/maintenance of coop & run -
straw in nesting boxes changed about twice weekly, shavings on floor of stalls changed weekly, metal dropping trays under roosts cleaned every about 3 times weekly, entire coop cleared of animals and bedding and sprayed down with a hose weekly. lots of scrubbing involved! she kept an immaculately clean coop (for being a coop, you know). also raked the run weekly, and mowed it about every other week (except winter). cleans feeders/waterers daily.

medication -
she used verm-x twice yearly I think, and might have wormed once a year with something like ivermectin, but not sure, I never handled that part. Do remember she didn't like to even give antibiotics (used as last resort) because we had to pitch the eggs. isolated sick birds in crates which she would keep on her porch or in her house, depending on severity of illness/wounds and weather. no bird vet here

flock health -
overall seemed really good. only 1 or 2 adult chickens died while I worked there (2 years) and 1 was from old age. Of course some chicks were lost

culling -
culled 4-5 birds a year for the table, used the metal cones to do it, put body in nearly boiling water for a few minutes (maybe less) before going in the plucker, did all this outside in open air.


Grandfather:

flock size -
around 60 to begin with, now around 10. 3 roosters

breed(s) -
Dominiquers, Rhode Island Reds & mixes of the two

coop & run -
none. free range day and night, though I have seen him put up a tarp during winter when it was rainy, and he will set up a jimmy rigged run for chicks. They can get under a trailer, or even inside various old buildings on the property.


climate -
warm almost year round, hardly a frost in winter. Sometimes long periods of rainy/mucky weather. almost never snow, and if snow, not enough to leave a blanket on ground.

terrain -
some open pasture surrounded closely by woods

predators -
foxes, snakes, wild dogs, coyotes, hawks, cougars and he says he has seen small bears, this is why his flock started as around over a year ago and is now around 10. he says he'll just hatch a bunch more next year.
feed -
I am not even sure that he feeds them other than scraps and scratch. If so, it'd be the cheapo stuff from the feed store, probably layers crumbles.

hatching -
incubator, then quarantine for an undetermined period of time in a run

pest control -
none

cleaning/maintenance of coop & run -
none, doesn't even have waterers to clean as they drink from wherever rain water is collected.

medication -
doesn't worm them that I know of, if a chicken gets sick and it seems like she can't recover without meds, he kills it.

flock health -
those that are surviving seem very hardy. otherwise not sure, they are almost wild so you can hardly get your hands on them to look at them.

culling -
culls only when bird is very sick/seriously injured, keeps for eggs only.

How we have been doing things (still getting settled into things, open to change & suggestions are welcome!):

flock size -
5 hens

breed(s) -
Rhode Island Reds

coop & run -
coop is about 1' off ground on 4x4 legs, measures about 5'x4' and has a sloping roof from height of about 3.5' to 2' on the back side. This coop was already on this property but in poor shape. We added a door, fixed the hatch used to access nesting boxes in back, and replaced some chicken wire on it. It has a metal roof without anything under the roof (you can see the metal roof from inside, which leaves spaces where wind/rain can get in) and there were no nesting boxes. We have been using cardboard boxes as nesting boxes, we just place them on the floor of the coop away from the roost and fill it with dry straw (for now). There was also no roost, so we used a sturdy piece of dry bamboo we had on hand and put that up, so there is a 5' roost. The floor is chicken wire supported by beams. the girls free range during the day so no run. They usually hang out under the pole barn

climate -
warm almost year round, hardly a frost in winter. Sometimes long periods of rainy/mucky weather. almost never snow, and if snow, not enough to leave a blanket on ground.

terrain -
some open pasture surrounded closely by woods

predators -
foxes, snakes, wild dogs, coyotes, hawks, and I have heard cougar calls but never never wood line and never seen them.

feed -
highest percent protein (22% I think) layers pellets, about 4 cups daily. I try to let the feeder get empty some days, to encourage foraging. They are great little foragers. Also feed them scraps, and I am always sure to give them their egg shells back (never whole egg though, unless cooked, don't want to encourage egg eating, which we had a real problem with on the farm where I worked). They lay hard eggs. I sprinkle cayenne pepper on their scraps before feeding to them, and sometimes give them home made yogurt.

hatching -
haven't hatched yet, have only been keeping just over 1 month now. Thinking about adding one rooster before next year and hatching as early in year as possible. I want to try hatching naturally, included keeping the mother and chicks in the same coop with other chickens, if she is a good enough mother to protect her chicks. Would love to hear from someone who has done this successfully. I do not want to feed the chicks medicated feed, either.

pest control -
DE in nesting box/around coop once monthly and dust birds with a little DE monthly.

cleaning/maintenance of coop & run -
any droppings that haven't dropped through the chicken wire floor are raked out twice a month. then once a month I replace the nest box with a new cardboard box (the old one is never very dirty) and put new straw in it, and spray any stubborn dropping through the wire floor, spray the walls inside. When dry, I sometimes rake the droppings out from under the coop and add to compost. clean feeders/waterers once weekly, some waterers I clean more frequently. I do put white vinegar in their water.

medication -
haven't wormed yet, husband would rather use natural "preventatives" than worm preemptively. So right now we're feeding cayenne pepper at least weekly and I was going to use verm-x soon, but I am thinking of using ivermectin or something once, maybe twice a year (during molts) and verm-x/cayenne pepper in between. Feedback appreciated on this as well. If sick, I would use epsom salt doses, ACV, yogurt, etc. depending on illness. Also would use antibiotics if necessary.

flock health -
great, though unsure about worming

culling -
will cull old, out of lay birds for table. I think that the most humane method I have found is cutting the jugular to drain most blood out, then breaking the neck. For a bird that isn't for the table, I would just dislocate the neck. I can't stand seeing a bird jump around after cutting a head off though, so I definitely don't want to do that. Also would like opinions on humane/gentle methods of harvesting.



Again, I am open to suggestions on our methods and would especially appreciate hearing from those who have had a small flock for a long time and try to manage them naturally. In particular, I am interested to hear from people who keep chickens near or in wooded areas. We have a 4 acre piece of land that is completely wooded, and will hopefully be moving there soon after my husband finishes school. When we move there, most of the land will still be wooded and we would like to keep it that way. So any tips on free ranging chickens in/close around woods would be great.
 
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Hi and welcome!

It certainly seems you've done your "homework"...kudos to you!

A couple of questions come to mind: Do you ultimately plan to breed and increase your flock? If so, do you have an idea of how many you plan to have? Are you just looking for eggs, or will you be branching out into meat birds as well?

Regarding the perch...how big is the diameter? If it's too small, it can be really hard on their feet. It gets colder here, so we use a 2 x 4 turned on the 4" side...that way they can sit on it and cover their feet. We also have an old tree branch about 2" in diameter they like.

Do they free range all day? Is there any protection from the predators in the area? Predators in our area are primarily hawks, so we built a covered run for them. It and the coop are portable so we move it every few days. So, they "sort of" free range, LOL.

Do your girls use the cardboard boxes for laying? We had something similar before the coop was finished and only 2 of them (we have 6) used it. Once we got them into their new home, we built boxes with a roof and now they ALL use them...they really seem to like the darkness and privacy.

We use DE as well, pretty much as you do except we don't actually dust the birds. We also put some in their dust bath area so between the bedding, boxes and bath, they seem to get enough to control the bugs.

We feed ours both oyster shell and egg shells, but I do crush the shells reasonably well before I give them...also don't want to encourage egg eating. Do you supplement their food with scraps or anything? Of course free ranging will give them lots of good stuff but I sometimes give them various fruits and vegetables as well...some they like, others...not so much :)

All in all, it sounds like yer a great chicken mommy!
 
Well lets see.

Flock size: I had 8 pellets on Monday. 1 disappeared sometime during the day. I White silkie rooster, 1 silkie hen, 2 speckled sussex and now 4 red sex links.

They have a 12x4 coop my flock sleep in and a 12x4 run. They are out 7am til when they decide to go to bed. I have 3 nest boxes even though only 2 are used. I keep their feed inside the coop and a plastic waterer as well. They have a pan of water in the run and various places to access water free ranging. They get feed layer pellets, scratch with black oil sunflower seeds. I mix cattle feed to. Oyster shells are offered along with grit. When they are left out in the mornings they raid the cat dish when the cats are done. I give them kitchen scraps. In the winter I still plan to let them free range. My flock is just something to enjoy along while getting eggs. Nobody is going to a soup pot anytime. The rooster needs an attitude adjustment at times. For some reason he doesn't like vehicles or bikes around his girls. Depending on his mood.

I cleaned out the coop twice since they've been in since April of this year. I plan to clean out again before it gets cold again. I use DE and clean the roost once a week. My coop doesn't have enough ventalation so I may have hubby add a cupola before winter. Maybe, still thinking about it. They are fun to watch. They really eat clover and grass before they roost at night. I plan to replace any losss in the spring if I need to. I'm not hatching chicks. All in all life is good for the chickens here.
 
Ain't that the truth, Memphis! LOL...we're very well trained

From what I've been reading, you should have 3 to 4 square feet per bird. We made our run about 81 sq ft, and the coop is about 20 sq ft. There's more room for them "upstairs" but so far they seem to prefer to sleep on the floor rather than the roosts. Oh well...whatever they like.

So far, we don't clean the coop much...we use Sweet PDZ and between it and our dry climate, we don't have hardly any odor at all. We periodically scoop what poop we can see, then add some more bedding, another sprinkle of the PDZ and mix it around a bit.

We stuck with the smaller coop/run because we're only allowed 6 hens here and we're at our quota. Our girls are for eggs, so we won't be butchering any for quite some time...only after they stop laying which I don't anticipate for another year or two. Don't think I could do the meat bird thing unless we had enough room to have lots...so many that they aren't quite "individuals"...that makes 'em too much like pets and that would just be too hard.

Ventilation is key...the smell and amonia really build up when things are damp so a nice breeze helps clear it all out. As long as a chilly wind doesn't blow directly on them, they're great. Our climate here is very arid, so it does help with the smell. We get a fair bit of wind so we left a space between the side walls and the roof of the coop open. The side of the roof comes down several inches to keep rain out which leaves a good 2 or 3 inch gap on both long sides of the coop where the air can flow but not blow. We also put a window with a shutter up high to let the air in as needed. The ramp into it is also open all day so it's got really good cross ventilation.
 
Thanks for all the responses. Some things I forgot to mention in the OP are:
eggs -
At the farm where I worked, we washed eggs in warm soapy water after they had soaked for 10-15 min. My grandfather and I don't wash our eggs at all, but I might flick off stuck on poop or grass before bringing them in.

feed -
We also gave the chickens on the farm free choice grit. I have not been giving my girls any grit though, as I read they usually get enough free ranging. They seem to be doing fine that way.
 
I don't wash the eggs either. If there's stuff stuck, I scratch it off, other wise, straight from the box into the fridge :)

Depending on what they have access to, you may not need to provide grit. Since our coop is on the grass, we do keep free choice containers of both grit and oyster shell for them. That way they take some if they feel the need, otherwise, it just waits till they do.
 
In response to your questions, I would like to breed in the future but never want an unmanageably large flock. Just enough for eggs for our family (which someday might be some 10 people) and maybe some to share. I am just starting to learn about husbandry, though.
I will cull birds for the table when they are done laying in a couple years. I don't really care about them having big meaty carcasses though, as we are not huge meat lovers. I'm actually a vegetarian right now, mostly because I believe if you're going to eat an animal you have to kill it humanely and I just don't trust factories to do that, and organic/guaranteed humane slaughtered meat is expensive. But if we have birds anyway, I think when we cull them we should use all of them that we can.
The perch is about 1.5" diameter. It's just until we get something more permanent up, but I was thinking a round perch would be best. I used to keep parakeets and cockatiels and know that it's important for birds' feet not to be flat all the time because they aren't designed for that.
They do free range all day long. They can go under the large pole barn, there are many shade trees around the barn that they scratch under, and they can go under their coop as well but that's small. There are also lots of bushes, etc. they can hide under if they see a hawk.
They are laying great in the cardboard boxes. Haven't had one of them refuse to lay in it yet. There's only 1 nesting box, we had 2 and sometimes 3 but they always used the same one anyway. I have witnessed the pecking order for laying, for sure. Top birds get to lay first and the others have to wait. The box is big enough for 2 or 3 of them at once but they take turns. They are good girls,never laying aruond the yard but going to their coop to lay.
 
Excellent! We have 2 boxes and one seems more popular than the other but both are used.

You're right...they need to be able to get their feet into different positions...that's why we offer both a flat and a round roosting pole. That way they get to choose.

With our 6 hens we get between 3 and 5 eggs a day, and it's surprising how quickly they add up. Of course, we don't eat them every day and in the summer it's just too darned hot to be baking so at present we're giving away nearly 50% of them. So far, it's been to friends and neighbors and we bartered a fresh dozen for about 15 pounds of spent grain from a neighbor who brews her own beer. Soon, we'll likely be donating some to the local food bank.
 

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