tell me your Coop tips

[LeverAction35]

I got a good size shed for free that I will be converting to a coop. I’m looking for tips on interior design for my 10-12 chickens

For instance,
—Do I NEED a rooster?
—Does it matter what direction the entrance faces?…
—How many windows should I have? —Where should the roosting bars be in relation to the entrance/nesting boxes?
—Should I keep the shed at ground level or lift it up off the ground so they can roam around under it?

Let me know if anything you wish you knew when you started that may save me some time and money making those same mistakes on my own

 

[DobieLover]

a good size shed

Define in ftxft. Is it wood? Metal? Resin? Roof style?
Please post pictures.

—Do I NEED a rooster?

No. And contrary to popular belief, he will not assist in the construction of your coop.

—Does it matter what direction the entrance faces?

No. Have the entrance protected from roof run off in your face when you enter/exit.

—How many windows should I have?

Lots. As many as you can. I have them on all 4 sides. 2 long ones and one short one at roost height that can be opened during the summer for direct breezes over the birds. 2 additional shorter ones away from the roosts that are left cracked open during winter and wide open during summer.

—Where should the roosting bars be in relation to the entrance/nesting boxes?

It depends on your design. I went with single height roosts centered over poop boards in a U shape. This allows daily cleaning of the poop load by sifting the Sweet PDZ coated boards and annual cleaning of the coop.

—Should I keep the shed at ground level or lift it up off the ground so they can roam around under it?

Ground.
Ground.
Ground.
It is SO much easier to manage a flock when you can walk into the coop. And if your coop is of any appreciable size, you don't want a sick hen stuck under there that won't come out and you then have to crawl through all manner of nastiness to retrieve her.

You never asked the most important questions: how much ventilation, floor space and roost space do I need?

You want to shoot for as close as possible to 1 sq ft of PERMANENTLY open ventilation per bird. This ventilation should be positioned so there are no direct drafts on roosted birds during cold weather.

You want 4 sq ft of floor space per bird. You can get away with 3.5 if you have a very large, solid roof, predator proof run attached to the coop that permits you to leave the pop door open 24/7.

You want as close to 1 linear foot of roost space per bird.
1 nest box per 4-5 layers and they should be positioned below roost height or the birds will roost in the boxes leaving you a poopy mess to clean up in the morning.

 

[Ted Brown]

It depends on your design. I went with single height roosts centered over poop boards in a U shape. This allows daily cleaning of the poop load by sifting the Sweet PDZ coated boards and annual cleaning of the coop.

I have four roosts each of 10'. Three are located over a 30" drop board - 1st is 12" from wall, 2nd is 12' from previous bar, front drop board lip is 6" from front of 3rd roost. I get some "spillage" over the lip onto floor.

I clean the drop boards as close to daily as I am able; I use a large feed scoop, a cat litter scoop and a mesh letter tray, allows me to reach across or under the roosts to pickup waste. 10-15 minutes.

Ground.
Ground.
Ground.
It is SO much easier to manage a flock when you can walk into the coop. And if your coop is of any appreciable size, you don't want a sick hen stuck under there that won't come out and you then have to crawl through all manner of nastiness to retrieve her.

...

Elevated.
Elevated.
Elevated.

My coop is 10' by 16' and is elevated 3' to 4' off the ground; it is walk-in, I have a three step 4' x 4' platform at coop level, very much like most folks front door.

Elevated coop benefits:

1. Free space - one gets use of the footprint for both run & coop.
2. Eliminates possibility of critters living underneath.
3. Deters access by critters into coop for food/water.
4. Increases life of the shed floor, by extension of the coop as well.

 

[LeverAction35]

Good points Ted

 

[aart]

@DobieLover has hit most the high points.
..and @Ted Brown made some good points too.
But.....
Where in this world are you located?
Climate, and time of year, is almost always a factor.
Please add your general geographical location to your profile.
It's easy to do, and then it's always there!

 

[LeverAction35]

Northeast Pennsylvania

 

[Ted Brown]

(Apologies for being repetitive.)

Northern New England crys out for more Woods style fresh air coops!https://gnipsel.com/files/chickens/mfaph.pdf (kudos to @jthornton for providing this!!)

 

[DobieLover]

My coop is 10' by 16' and is elevated 3' to 4' off the ground

You've obviously never had to go under it. I had to crawl into a 10'x10' area to retrieve an errant egg. NEVER again. NEVER!
So unless you are 3' tall...

 

[StinkyAcres]

I'm with @DobieLover on the ground-level walk-in coop. I have both an elevated coop and a non-elevated coop. Birds will hang out under elevated coops for multiple reasons (shade, egg laying, sick/bullied, or they simply don't want to go to bed in the coop) and it is a big pain to try to get under there to get them out.

Let me know if anything you wish you knew when you started that may save me some time and money making those same mistakes on my own

Many people seem to think that the roosting bars need to be very high like the branches of a tree. This isn't necessary and can create a problem when you need to access your birds. Having lower roosts (table-height or so) in a walk-in coop makes it super easy to examine, catch, and medicate birds, which is best done at night when they are roosting. And with lower roosts there is no need for ladders, steps, or ramps. You do, however, want the roosts to be higher than the nesting boxes to prevent the chickens from roosting (which equals pooping) in the nesting boxes.

 

[FrostRanger]

You've obviously never had to go under it. I had to crawl into a 10'x10' area to retrieve an errant egg. NEVER again. NEVER!
So unless you are 3' tall...

I've had to crawl under my house to untangle my dog (my yard isn't fenced so if I let my dog out he must be on a tie out) which was annoying so I wholeheartedly agree with you. If you're in an area that tends to flood there is an argument for raising your coop but if you do, it'd be best to block off the area underneath