You might be surprised to know that in the old days, 104 degrees was considered optimum. Some say 99.5, others say 101.5 and so on.
It might also interest you to learn that the ancient Egyptians had a hatch rate of at least 75% with NO thermometers or even any inkling as to what that was.
They maintained temps by holding the egg to their eyelid and feeling it. Need more heat? Pour on the camel dung. Need less? Open the doors.
So, what say we cut through the noise, eh, and try to make it simple for you?
Elderoo's Temp Tips
1. Work to maintain a stable 100 degrees. Period. Use an external digtherm, with it's probe inside a water weasel, what someone called a "wiggler." I use an aquarium model digitherm with a "wiggler I got at
WalMart.
2. Fill vitamin, pill, or soda bottles with water and place one in your bator. Just use whatever will fit. These act as thermal buffers and help to regulate temp excursions. I put flat rocks in the bottom of mine. By the way, do not fill your styro 'bator to max capacity. Leave a little room in there for air to circulate.
3. Keep your incubator away from windows and on the floor of a little used closet, basement or other place where there aren't any drafts, nosy kids, or where you aren't tempted to be lifting the lid all the time.
Place it on a piece of builders insulating foam board cut to fit the 'bators base.
4. Make absolutely sure that all vents are clear of obstructions and air can get in freely.
5. Let your 'bator run for a week while tesing and getting things stable BEFORE you set the first egg. Better yet, make it 10 days. Then once eggs are set, leave them alone except to turn them. If you have a turner, then this is even better.
5A. If hand turning your eggs, do it through the clear plastic top windows. Lift one, reach in and roll the eggs around gently with your hands - and then get out of there!
That's it to control temps and your goal, as you likely guessed, is stabilty. It really is that simple.
Humidity control, on the other hand, is a bit more demanding.
