e I may have hatch more than I thought :/ I just took another small bunch out, I think there are four left to zip, I left quite a few in the bator to dry off, but I have these in the bucket heading to brooder and then the brooder image (brooder has a trio of week old CCL in it as well) I will set up two more brooders and separate tomorrow, does them good to cuddle and fluff each other up right! ha !
Well I finally got my hatcher completed minus the wire hatching trays For the Easter hatch and the Third Annual Cinco de Mayo Turkey Hatch-Athon. I gave it an operational test today and finally have it tweeked in and adjusted. I had to change out the fan to a larger one to get adequate air flow to even out the temps. Temp hold within a degree between the top and the bottom. Here is the pics of the progress between start and finish. Built this to go along with my 1266 GQF That I recently bought at a thrift shop and repaired. I am all set now for this seasons hatch.
Can anyone draw out for me just what I need to hook up to make this thermostat work. I have 2 heating elements. I am not using a cooling device at the moment. I got the probe connected properly but I am confused about how I run the power so that the thermostat works and the heating elements get power also.
Specifications
• Temperature Measuring Range: -50 ~ 99 °C
• Control temperature range: -50 ~ 99 °C (adjustable)
• Control temperature difference: 0.3 - 10 °C (adjustable)
• Resolution: 0.1 °C
• Accuracy: ± 1 °C (-50 ~ 70 °C)
• Sensor: NTC sensor
• Sensor error delay: 1 minute
• Relay contact capacity (Heating): 10A (max) 250 V
• Relay contact capacity (Cooling): 10 A (max) 250 V
• Compressor delay protection time: 1 ~ 10 minutes (adjustable)
• Operating Temperature: 0 ~ 60 °C
• Storage Temperature: -30 ~ 75 °C
• Operating Relative Humidity: 20 ~ 85 % (No condensation)
• Alarm Output : Buzzer
• Power Supply: 100 ~ 120 V AC, 50 / 60 Hz
• Power consumption: < 3 W
• Cable length: 2 m (6.56 feet)
• Item dimensions: approx. 75 (W) x 86 (H) x 35 (D) mm (2.95' x 3.39' x 1.38' inch)
• Item weight: 180 g
I have decided to closet my brinsea mini for hatches . Here is a picture if me crying and whining about cleaning the fluf out of the fan again .
But the main reason for closeting it is I can't regulate the humidity in the wet season like I like. Too small. All my egtopsies show "died in lockdown " fully developed and so I think the lack of oxygen whole trying to control the humidity spikes caused suffocation . My replacement bater will be here in the morning plenty of time to regulate hatching humidity I hope!
I only go to 98.5 - 99 as I have an inlet air hole behind fan for hatch. And you do this when? day 18 or with pips beginning?
I will have to check out some trials and studies on that much drop in temp, interesting thanks Ron
Those temps work great for forced air, but if you run like that in a still air you better be prepared to wait an extra week for chicks & be lucky to get 25% hatch rate. You have to run higher during incubation in a still air. You can drop to 100°F for lockdown & hatch if you want, but I really haven't noticed a difference there except with ducks & turkeys. Since they take longer to hatch & need higher humidity during hatch they are more affected by the lower O2 levels. I only raise humidity to 40-50% to hatch quail & chicks. I go 60-70% for ducks & turkeys. I dry hatch & run humidity as low as possible until lockdown. In winter, I had to add water when we had forced air heat, but not with electric baseboards. No water in summer unless it was extremely hot & dry. As long as humidity stays above 20% for chicks & quail & 30% for turkeys & ducks I don't add water. I really don't monitor humidity that closely either. Just check air cells at 7 days & 14 days & adjust accordingly...but I've hatched thousands of eggs (all in still air) & have had a lot of time to twaek the process for my set up. What works for my set up will not work for everyone & can be disaster for some. We all have to learn what works best for us through a series of trial & errors. Some find success quickly & others seem to take forever.
I'm officially an addict. Took some roos to the auction, came home with 13 Silver Cuckoo Marans chicks and a dozen RIR hatching eggs. I need a bigger brooder.....
Well I finally got my hatcher completed minus the wire hatching trays For the Easter hatch and the Third Annual Cinco de Mayo Turkey Hatch-Athon. I gave it an operational test today and finally have it tweeked in and adjusted. I had to change out the fan to a larger one to get adequate air flow to even out the temps. Temp hold within a degree between the top and the bottom. Here is the pics of the progress between start and finish. Built this to go along with my 1266 GQF That I recently bought at a thrift shop and repaired. I am all set now for this seasons hatch.
Jess can you make that into an article and hook me up with a link to save please>????? and why did you decided to go with the double wafer? the second is for backup?
Also did you add a temp kill switch to the line? ozexpat suggest one for mine, I ordered it but it didnt arive yet, he said it shuts off power if it gets over certain temp... I trust oz to tell me correct so I ordered it with the other stuff. But I didnt ask how it gets installed.
e I may have hatch more than I thought :/ I just took another small bunch out, I think there are four left to zip, I left quite a few in the bator to dry off, but I have these in the bucket heading to brooder and then the brooder image (brooder has a trio of week old CCL in it as well) I will set up two more brooders and separate tomorrow, does them good to cuddle and fluff each other up right! ha !
plenty of time to regulate hatching humidity I hope!
