The 6th Annual BYC Easter Hatch-a-long!

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Well just went out to give fresh water to the birds since we had a small break in the weather. While out tending the flock it began snowing, before I was through it was coming pretty heavy.

Found my Salmon Nsked Neck rooster dues during the night. So he's gone now to the big chicken flick in chicken heaven.

Just opened tge door to that run and let his ladies run with the big Black Jersey Giant rooster for now. They weren't the best layers and I'll know their eggs (brown) so I won't hold those for hatching.

I have either three or four due to hatch Friday from him and three or four more next week.

I also have a son in the brooder from the NYD hatch, he's a tricolor, red, buff, and barred. Him I'll be watching. Trying not to do too much barring it seems to take over easily.


Don't forget though that the hens will still be fertile from him and bear his eggs for about 2-3 weeks
 
[COLOR=008080]Thank you so much for your response![/COLOR] :) [COLOR=008080] It was very helpful!  I am still not totally sure which one to get though - (they all look the same to me), because if I search for the STC-1000, it ONLY comes up in Celcius!  One of the Farenheit thermostats I was looking at said it was the ITC-1000, but I don't know if there is any significant difference or if that one would work just as well.  I guess I will go look at some of the videos you mentioned and see if I can figure it out.  Thanks again! [/COLOR]
JoyfulPromise, you are welcome for whatever help I can provide. You should try ebay, electronics: in the search area, enter 110 volt AC digital temperature controllers, Fahrenheit. There are more than a few Fahrenheit models to choose from, and they shouldn't cost more than $13 - $15. I think there is an STC model listed. My simple model was cheap with free shipping, and it took about a week to get here. It was a 10 amp model (usual), which means it can switch a load of 10 amps, way more than a single incubator draws, without a relay. Just be sure not to get a DC or 220 volt version. You need a PayPal account to buy things from eBay, but once you get there, you'll see what I mean about a decent choice of models. I just taped my controller on to the lid of my Hovabator and ran the wires from it and my power supply (mutilated extension cord) inside to connect to the heating element. 'Twas not such a big deal. In my Coolerbator and hatchbator I cut an opening into which I mounted the little gizmo, and it looks great. You will like yours when you get it. Laurie in a blizzard
 
Any of y'all ever had a day 7 egg that has development but no apparent air cell? I have a FBMC egg that's fairly dark and I can see the shadow of the embryo and the tippy top of the egg, where the air cell should be. The other four FBMC eggs look normal.
 
Any of y'all ever had a day 7 egg that has development but no apparent air cell? I have a FBMC egg that's fairly dark and I can see the shadow of the embryo and the tippy top of the egg, where the air cell should be. The other four FBMC eggs look normal.
The air cell was there--It was just hard to see. The air cell can be pretty small on a fresh egg.

Just a thought, make sure that the air cell is not at the other end. It happens sometimes.
 
The air cell was there--It was just hard to see. The air cell can be pretty small on a fresh egg.

Just a thought, make sure that the air cell is not at the other end. It happens sometimes.


That makes me feel better. I'll candle again in the pitch dark. If it's still wonky, I'll try to get a picture.
 
Definitely have had that. Thought for sure should be one end and until I candled the other way...Lo' and behold there it was! Only my Marans eggs though. They are so round.


I just candled again and it took a while but I found it. The egg is air cell up, but the cell is small and wonky. Way off to the side. So I'll just keep my eye on it.

Thanks everyone! :D
 
What mini Brinsea incubator do you all recommend? I think I'll get the Eco, I want to have some responsibility lol.


I have the Brinsea Mini Advance. It was great for the set it and forget it features, and doesn't cost much more than the non-auto turn model.
Brinsea's website had a great sale on them last year and they included the high power candler with it for free. If you can find coupon codes, try to get some of those discounts. Sometimes they also give packages with the eco glow as well.
However, it only hatches seven at a time, which just turned out to not be enough, so I wound up getting the TSC incubator which does 42. ....More chicks
:oops:
 
I have a question and hopefully someone here can help. I have the hovabator figured out inside and out and have a set of eggs due to go on lockdown on Friday. This is however, the first time I'll be using the little giant still air as a hatcher. I have it up and running and a thermometer in it but my question is, what should my thermometer be reading at this point. It's just sitting on the metal mesh and I want thinking about it but it's pretty close to being under the heating element and is reading roughly 98/99. I also checked that spot with a thermometer that you use to check for fevers. I moved the fever thermometer to the middle of the bator and checked and it only read about 96 ish. When i put it through a vent home on top though, it reads around 106. So, my question is, where should I be taking my reading from, what should it read sitting on the mesh and what area should I put the eggs (only 14) when I lock down. I'll probably eventually get a fan or another hovabator eventually but in the mean time, i need this to work lol. Thanks everyone!
If you haven't already, read the article by ChooksChick at this link. Good still air info.

https://www.backyardchickens.com/a/incubation-cheat-sheet
 
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