The 7th Annual BYC Easter Hatch-A-Long!

[Cynthia12]

Here is a group shot. No fancy photos right now. They make
a mess...fast! I have 14 that hatched for the HAL. Not sure
one will make it..still in the bator with another..a JG.








This little one had wry neck yesterday. Gave it Poly V. every two to three hrs...and it is fine today!
You can see it's messy face.



Here is a paint SG that I hatched for a friend.
It has two little dots on the head too.


A big Bubba of a Jersey Giant also for a friend.

 

[BantyChooks]

CHICKS Wet? Sticky? Stuck? I wrote this when discussing some things about call ducks this mornin... sharing here. There are two types of sticky chicks Sticky embryos, BIG Wet, or Mushy Chicks (embryos may be smeared with egg contents / yolk residual present) (yellow jelly/jello or other fluids) HOWEVER, a green and gray tinted fluid can be caused from osteomylitis or meconium) causes: any/all combination of the following: high average incubation humidity low incubation temperature lack of sufficient ventilation too many drafts of outside air in the hatcher BREED ISSUES: Always avoid cross breeding in breeds that carry lethal genes. are we aware of Lethal genes for this breed of duck Rav?

Embryos sticking or adhering to shell causes: in any/all combination of the following: Low incubation humidity (especially during hatching) Excessive ventilation~ reduce rate but maintain minimum air exchange to prevent suffocation of embryos. To confuse you a bit more, the amount of water that a chick has in its own tissues (not the albumen) has been shown to increase during incubation under perfect conditions; however, rate of egg water loss is found to have no effect on embryonic water, how could this be if we get big wet chicks from high humidity? Makes you think outside the box, perhaps it is in fact LOW TEMPS not the hearsay on humidity? Although AGAIN combination is usually the factor. TEMPERATURE: Incubation temperature is one the most critical factors during embryo development, AGAIN studies have shown the optimum temperature is more 99.9. NOT FORGETTING that also its optimal to drop in temps during hatch, as I suggest in my article Hatching Eggs 101 in the lower day 18 section. So it may be worth a shot for you, and I am not clear on your temps or calibration, Hammond found that a bit higher incubation temps increase chick initial body weight believe it or not, at the higher temp 99.9 the higher the rate of egg water loss in the first 16 days of incubation. What I have found is when I incubate at a slightly elevated temp 100.5 calibrated I have much cleaner hatches. They found that its the opposite with low temps, body weight of chicks were less. Then you get into the additional factors of adding low high temps with humidity and ventilation.... Best we can do is work these areas to achieve absolute and relative weights. IN KNOWING THAT and then factor in that EACH EGG & breeds are different in age, air cell size, genetics etc. I run at 100.5 calibrated spot on temps, rotating eggs n the bator often.

Researchers have found that lowering temperatures will prolong incubation,​

HOWEVER it is favorable to do so at the end of incubation. ​

[COLOR=FF0000]Day 19 & 20 Temp Min 98.0 Max 98.5[/COLOR]​

[COLOR=FF0000]Day 21 Temp Min 97 Max 98.0[/COLOR]​

for more information please refer here: PAGE 42​

[COLOR=333333]http://www.hubbardbreeders.com/media/incubation_guide_english__030374800_0945_07012015.pdf[/COLOR]​

This is what am EGG from a good chick hatch looks like! your goal post #14673 [COLOR=008080]Empty shells -[/COLOR] [COLOR=008080]a valuable source of information click HERE[/COLOR] The Cuticle removal in hatching eggs as a means to reduce weight loss: Has actually been found to increase embryo weight during incubation and has direct relationship between rate of egg water loss, embryonic metabolism, and growth during incubation. But that warning of contamination is there if you dont follow cleaning procedures correctly. Chlorine treated eggs were not altered either. So with all that it is found that cuticle removal can be an effective method for increasing growth and egg weight loss.

So mine were good??

 

[misfit acres]

CHICKS Wet? Sticky? Stuck? I wrote this when discussing some things about call ducks this mornin... sharing here. There are two types of sticky chicks Sticky embryos, BIG Wet, or Mushy Chicks (embryos may be smeared with egg contents / yolk residual present) (yellow jelly/jello or other fluids) HOWEVER, a green and gray tinted fluid can be caused from osteomylitis or meconium) causes: any/all combination of the following: high average incubation humidity low incubation temperature lack of sufficient ventilation too many drafts of outside air in the hatcher BREED ISSUES: Always avoid cross breeding in breeds that carry lethal genes. are we aware of Lethal genes for this breed of duck Rav?

Embryos sticking or adhering to shell causes: in any/all combination of the following: Low incubation humidity (especially during hatching) Excessive ventilation~ reduce rate but maintain minimum air exchange to prevent suffocation of embryos. To confuse you a bit more, the amount of water that a chick has in its own tissues (not the albumen) has been shown to increase during incubation under perfect conditions; however, rate of egg water loss is found to have no effect on embryonic water, how could this be if we get big wet chicks from high humidity? Makes you think outside the box, perhaps it is in fact LOW TEMPS not the hearsay on humidity? Although AGAIN combination is usually the factor. TEMPERATURE: Incubation temperature is one the most critical factors during embryo development, AGAIN studies have shown the optimum temperature is more 99.9. NOT FORGETTING that also its optimal to drop in temps during hatch, as I suggest in my article Hatching Eggs 101 in the lower day 18 section. So it may be worth a shot for you, and I am not clear on your temps or calibration, Hammond found that a bit higher incubation temps increase chick initial body weight believe it or not, at the higher temp 99.9 the higher the rate of egg water loss in the first 16 days of incubation. What I have found is when I incubate at a slightly elevated temp 100.5 calibrated I have much cleaner hatches. They found that its the opposite with low temps, body weight of chicks were less. Then you get into the additional factors of adding low high temps with humidity and ventilation.... Best we can do is work these areas to achieve absolute and relative weights. IN KNOWING THAT and then factor in that EACH EGG & breeds are different in age, air cell size, genetics etc. I run at 100.5 calibrated spot on temps, rotating eggs n the bator often.

Researchers have found that lowering temperatures will prolong incubation,​

HOWEVER it is favorable to do so at the end of incubation. ​

[COLOR=FF0000]Day 19 & 20 Temp Min 98.0 Max 98.5[/COLOR]​

[COLOR=FF0000]Day 21 Temp Min 97 Max 98.0[/COLOR]​

for more information please refer here: PAGE 42​

[COLOR=333333]http://www.hubbardbreeders.com/media/incubation_guide_english__030374800_0945_07012015.pdf[/COLOR]​

This is what am EGG from a good chick hatch looks like! your goal post #14673 [COLOR=008080]Empty shells -[/COLOR] [COLOR=008080]a valuable source of information click HERE[/COLOR] The Cuticle removal in hatching eggs as a means to reduce weight loss: Has actually been found to increase embryo weight during incubation and has direct relationship between rate of egg water loss, embryonic metabolism, and growth during incubation. But that warning of contamination is there if you dont follow cleaning procedures correctly. Chlorine treated eggs were not altered either. So with all that it is found that cuticle removal can be an effective method for increasing growth and egg weight loss.

FYI. Not a good post to come upon while eating lunch..... Suddenly I'm not hungry lol

 

[CGilbert]

Hope you weren't eating eggs....

 

[JoyfulPromise]

LOVE the adorable, big poofy cheeks on this one!!!

 

[generaldsherman]

Still just 1 chick. Non of the others have even started to do anything, and official day 21 starts in about 3 hours. I am determined not to touch the eggs, but I wish one would pip so I'd know they're still OK. I've heard that it can take older eggs a bit longer to hatch, so maybe that's why nothing else has pipped yet?

 

[SilkiesForEver]

I think I'll only be getting 1 chick out of my 4 eggs. 2 made it to lockdown, but I believe one of them died last night. I did a quick candle yesterday to check on internal pipping, and both chicks were moving, but only one was chirping. This morning the other one wasn't moving.

Trying not to count my eggs (or chicks

) before they hatch. But today is day 20.

 

[Sueg4332]

Just checking in.. It is moving so fast I cannot keep up. Have three turkeys hatched (not due until tomorrow) Chicks are beginning to pip. 1 hatched. Due tomorrow .
Back to work.
PS I'll be so far behind `by this evening LOL
congratulations to all that have hatched......
PSS 3 more turkey pips

 

[mlm Mike]

Here is a group shot. No fancy photos right now. They make
a mess...fast! I have 14 that hatched for the HAL. Not sure
one will make it..still in the bator with another..a JG.








This little one had wry neck yesterday. Gave it Poly V. every two to three hrs...and it is fine today!
You can see it's messy face.



Here is a paint SG that I hatched for a friend.
It has two little dots on the head too.


A big Bubba of a Jersey Giant also for a friend.

They're the cutest!

 

[misfit acres]

Hope you weren't eating eggs....

lol, no, but I was eating ham salad....